Saturday, September 27, 2008
Tuesday, June 17, 2008
Namdapha National Park
A trek in a Hornbill Country
If you ever wondered about a place that was still left to explore, try Namdapha. It is the sort of untouched wilderness where you can be the first to make a natural discovery. Tucked away in remote eastern Arunachal, Namdapha is perhaps the most bio-diverse parts of the sub continent. Its altitudes varying from 200 to 4578 m, its geographical boundaries with Myanmar and the Dapha range (5000m) and snow-fed rivers have kept the area well-protected and largely unexplored. Spread over 1985 sq km, Namdapha is also a Project Tiger reserve and the only such reserve and one of the few national parks in India where you explore only on foot. The trek is about exploration and you are never in too much of a hurry to get from point A to B.
For keen nature and wildlife enthusiasts, this trek is perhaps the best experience offered anywhere in the country. The trek cuts through lush primary evergreen forests along well-defined trails, crisscrossed by numerous streams. The tall tree canopy rises 150 m above and the undergrowth is impenetrable with the presence of bamboo and cane. You camp at pre-designated campsites and unlike other treks the camping sites here are only a short distance away from each other. It is advisable to cover the area in short stages to maximize your time for exploring this virgin terrain. The park is accessible only to an altitude of 850 m but Namdapha does throw in its share of challenges. Heavy rains can occur anytime causing mudslides and you have to keep a constant check on the ever-present leeches in the soil below.
Keep in mind that this is one of the country’s largest virgin primary forests, so prepare accordingly and do not just drop in. Some of the first citizens of this lush terrain include tigers, leopards, elephants and wild dogs, so follow the advice of your accompanying forest guard, whose experience and resources in this area are invaluable. A pair of good binoculars is an absolute must for this trek as you would not want to miss out on the chance of viewing the amazing bird and mammal life present here. It’s worth keeping a few extra days in hand for a trek like this, as nature may spring some surprises
THE TREK
Time: 5-6 days
Level: Easy to Moderate
Ideal Season: November to March
Location: Eastern Arunachal Pradesh
Day 1- Deban to Gibbon’s Land (11 km each way) / 8 hrs
The forest rest house at Deban (390 m) is where you camp the first night in Namdapha. This picturesque rest house overlooks the Neo Dhing river. After leaving your bags at the rest house you do a relatively easy hike along the motorable dirt road back towards Miao. You could walk right up to Gibbon’s Land, 11 km away or turn back a little earlier to Deban. It is here that I got my first real taste of the spectacular bird life present here. In the streams we saw Little and Slaty-backed Forktails, while the other birds included the flamboyant Sultan’s Tit, Scarlet Minivets, Lesser and Greater Yellownape Woodpeckers and my first ever sighting of the Red -tailed Minla and Collared Treepie. In the area around Gibbon’s Land we sighted a large group of Assamese Macaque peacefully perched on top of a tree canopy. We walked back slowly and returned to the Deban Rest House by evening. It is also during this walk that we first realized that Namdapha is also home to at least 5 kinds of leeches, which are present in large numbers. Fortunately with some help from our accompanying forest guard we ordered for a pair of Leech Guard (a large thick pair of socks up to your knees that prevents leeches from penetrating), which was picked up from an oncoming vehicle from Miao.
Day 2 - Deban to Haldibari (6 km) / 4 hrs
This is one trek where you do not want to sleep late as the excitement unfolds the moment you open your eyes. The next morning I woke up early and the action began in the grounds of the rest house itself. A solitary barking deer was feeding a little distance away from the rest house and moments later the accompanying forest guard called for me to sight a Fire-tailed Sunbird. While sipping my first cup of tea I heard the loud whooping of Hoolock Gibbons. I followed the evocative call leading to the forests behind the rest house and came across a pair of these apes who were swinging from one branch to the other using their extended arms, stopping now and then to get a look at us below. It was barely 7 in the morning and so much had already taken place. Such is the magic of Namdapha.
After breakfast at the rest house, we got ready to cross the Neo Dhing river for the trek onwards. A ferryboat waiting for us plunged into the gushing torrent and before I knew it, the fast rapids combined with the skilled maneuvering of the experienced boatman had deposited us on the left bank a considerable distance downstream. It is from here onwards that you are on your own, with the accompanying team of forest guard, cook and porters.
A trail from here takes you up an incline for about 300 m before you walk along a ridge to reach Haldibari, your next camping site. The walk to Haldibari is replete with birdcalls and we saw the magnificent Great Hornbill and Great Slaty Woodpecker. We reached the campsite of Haldibari (425 m) before lunch, which houses a small shack amidst a clearing. We set camp here in tents and after lunch explored the area only to be rewarded with yet another rarity – the Malayan Giant Squirrel. It was enough action for one day.
Day 3 - Haldibari – Hornbill Glade (5km) / 3 hrs
The third morning it felt as if I had gone to bed in Namdapha and had woken up in Vietnam. It was raining heavily, the army of leeches was out in the trenches and stepping out of the tent seemed impossible. Determined not to waste precious moments of the trip I decided to brave a session of early morning birding. All signs of life had decreased considerably except Streaked Spiderhunters, which were present in large numbers. We broke camp to carry on to our next site at Hornbill (520 m), a distance of 5 km from Haldibari. Within a few hours of continuous rain, the number of streams on the trails suddenly seemed to have increased and so had the leeches on the muddy track. Having covered hardly a km I decided to wade right through the streams on the path, rather then hop across the rocks, which was deceptively slippery. In any case it was pointless trying to stay dry under the given conditions. The hike was gentle though, through mildly undulating terrain and took us 3 hours of easy walk before we reached Hornbill Glade.
Hornbill was an open patch with two large sheds and a small makeshift hut, which served as the kitchen. This was the only point during the entire trek that I came across other travelers. Five American birders were camping the night here with an army of porters, local agents, cooks and other staff. It had stopped raining by late afternoon and I ventured out into the adjoining area. Hornbill sure does live up to its name. Within 200m of the camp I saw a Rufous Necked Hornbill, giving a short monosyllabic bark-like call at regular intervals, its distinct colours glowing in the fading light.
Day 4 - Hornbill – Bulbulia (3km) / 1 hour 30 minutes
Zipped inside a tent, you learn to identify birds and the jungle’s different creatures by their calls and not by sight. The dense foliage doesn’t help either. We moved to our next campsite at Bulbulia, a short hike away. The terrain got more undulating than the previous days, with streams flowing across at regular intervals. The rain had come down heavily again and after a little over an hour we came to the base of a hill, atop which was our next camp. Bulbulia houses a large open-sided shack offering a spectacular view of a large aquifer below with several natural springs (bulbule), from which the place derives its name. What’s even better is that the shack remains totally dry and leech-free. This is easily the Presidential Suite of Namdapha as it offers the luxury of a large bare wooden platform, which was to serve as my king size bed for the next two days.
Strategically located on top of a hill, the shack makes a perfect watchtower to check the stream below, giving you access to good views of the tree top canopy and sightings of Long tailed Sibias and Greater Racket-tailed Drongos make regular halts on the perches close by. Being a marshland, thick undergrowth is missing here, making way for better viewing and elephants often frequent the streams below. I spotted the rare Black-backed Forktail skimming the stream and a hike up to the campsite yielded a solitary rather lonely Hoolock Gibbon. The excitement in Bulbulia continues past sunset and if are lucky you could see Flying Squirrels gliding on the top tree canopy. I went to bed wondering the owl hooting close by was a Brown Fish Owl or a Tawny Fish Owl. You realize absorbing the throbbing jungle from the very perch of your bed is a lot better than being zipped up in a tent.
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Day 5 - Bulbulia to Rani Jheel – Bulbulia (5 km each way) / 7 hours
From Bulbulia your trek carries on along the trail towards Ranijheel. Although there is a campsite at Ranijheel where you can pitch tents, we took the unanimous decision of exploring Ranijheel and returning back to the comfort of Bulbulia. The lack of any shade at Ranijheel makes camping a little more demanding. Cooking and other tasks can be a problem, especially if it rains. In this walk you face a few steep slopes on muddy tracks and the trail is broken in parts, though walkable. After 3 km of walking from Bulbulia the trail suddenly caves under a thick Bamboo patch for a good stretch. The forest guard warned of rogue elephants that often wandered here. It is advisable to stay close to your forest guard. This patch is popular with birders for species like Great Rufous-headed Parrotbill and Red-billed Scimitar Babbler. It is in this walk that I saw some of the tallest trees in Namdapha, garlanded with orchids.
There were surprises everywhere. A Grey Peacock Pheasant dashed across the trail, Wreathed Horbills glided over the top tree canopy and a pair of courting Changeable Hawk Eagles perched high up and gave out shrill calls. This walk is sure to take you in a state of trance. Soon enough we stumbled across a clearing with the small lake of Ranijheel to the right. We explored the area and looked for the highly endangered White-winged Duck, which was reported here. If you want to spend more time exploring Namdapha, it is possible to trek from here to Firm Base, Embeong and cross over the Namdapha river (if the water level permits) to complete a circular circuit back to Deban via Camera Point in about 4-5 days. We headed back to Bulbulia after lunch to reach before sun down.
Day 6 - Bulbulia to Deban (14 km) / 7 hours
This is the last day of your trek and it is best to start early to cover the entire distance back to the Neo Dhing river and cross over to Deban. It’s advisable to reach the riverbank while there is still a few hours of light left and connect with your boatman. The water level in the river can rise considerably by the evening, like in the case of any snow fed river, and more so when it has been raining. This can make the river crossing on the ferryboat quite tricky and may require more than one run if there are over 8 persons.
TIP:
The first thing to keep in mind when you set out to explore this area is that you must do it in the right season. We did it in mid-April, when the monsoons had set in, the leeches were out in the fields and the Neo Dhing was nearly un-crossable because of the high water level. December and January are the driest months and the best time to visit Namdapha.
Wednesday, November 22, 2006
Marriages are made in Heaven (May, 2003)
A British couple tie the knot on their trek to Bedni Bugyal
When a British couple expressed their desire to get married in one of the world’s largest and highest meadows, you can’t dismiss it as high altitude sickness. It stems from something more; a serious malady called love. It was certainly the strangest request we had ever received. We prided ourselves in our ability to customize a tour to the liking of our clients but this was truly unusual. Couples have done it underwater, in outer space, even mid-air while skydiving but whoever heard of getting married on a trek!
It wasn’t a request you could politely turn down, as this was Mark’s third trip with Wild World India. Having grown up on legendary tales of British adventurers Shipton & Tillman (the first to scale Nanda Devi), Mark harboured the romantic notion of getting married on the Tillman’s trail. It was easier to get him married in Joshimath, where matrimonial trappings were easily available or at Wan, where he just had to go around a temple to be married, without the help of a priest. But having spent enough time in India, Mark was well versed with Indian traditions. He wanted an authentic Hindu wedding, a grand affair that ranked midway between a gandharva vivah and an ashwamedha yagna – with true-blood pahari musicians, a pandit to chant the Sanskrit shlokas, a menhdi artist for the bride, a cook who could easily switch between pasta and paalak and a professional photographer to capture every single frame of this epic tale. In an earlier trip Mark got engaged at the Ganesh temple inside the 1000-year-old Ranthambhore fort.
A fortnight before the couple flew into Delhi; Chief Naturalist of Wild World India Sumantha Ghosh did an extensive reconnaissance trip to Bedni. Ghosh’s first job was to assemble his crew. The keyword was fitness. If the priest fumbled on his mantras but didn’t stumble on his step, he was in. Since it was the marriage season in the mountains, two priests were sourced with great difficulty from the Sanskrit Academy in Ramnagar. They were quite fit, for each had to carry 20 kg sacks of sacred knickknacks including 3-4 sacred brass bells of varying sizes. Four local village musicians were sourced from Loharjung Pass, the base-camp of the trek. With a dhol, a small percussion instrument, a bagpipe and a local clarinet, the Bedni Quartet was complete. Devender, the regular excursion cook was an expert who could easily stir up a 4-course meal. A local tracker, two porters and 4 horses were kept on standby to carry kerosene, stoves, camping equipment, kitchen tent, luggage, toilet tent and provisions for the 21-day trek.
With the tough part out of the way, Ghosh was onto his next step – actually doing the trek to figure out the lay of the land, proximity to a water source, vantage points for romantic stopovers and nitty-gritties like which way the bride’s tent should face. Gauri, the soft-spoken fleet-footed mountain man who led most trekking expeditions for Wild World India, accompanied Ghosh. Together, they did the trek in seven days and returned to Delhi with just enough time to finalize the photographer. By the end of Ghosh’s lengthy discourse on ‘Once-in-a-lifetime-opportunities’ and lured by the untold magic of Bedni, Prithvi Gill agreed. With 4 cameras and as many lenses, it amounted to 35-40 kg for his porter, plus 20 kg for himself. Two days later, with heaving breaths and big smiles pasted on their faces, Ghosh and Gauri received Mark and Liz at the airport. The mad marriage was on.
After the overnight train-ride to Ramnagar, it was a further 10-hour drive to Loharjung, from where Tapovan (the end of the trail) was 125 km. Since it wasn’t the distance but the altitude you covered in a day that mattered, the team stayed the night at Loharjung to acclimatize and started next morning after an early breakfast.
The first leg was a 5-hour trek that led down into the temperate forests of the Gyan Ganga Valley, across the river and uphill above the small village of Didana where they set up camp. The second day was far more grueling. The altitudinal gain of 2000m took the team right above the tree line, where the air got thinner and everyone could feel its dehydrating effect. As they approached Bedni Pass, a sudden hailstorm enveloped them. It snowed heavily; the temperature plummeted to sub-zero and the lashing wind turned more hostile. Luckily, the group made it to the log hut before dark. It was the night before marriage. While the eggs boiled, the menhdi paste was prepared. In the mountains, they apply menhdi even to the bridegroom. In accordance to strict Hindu traditions the couple was politely asked to stay apart till the next morning.
Next day – through some cosmic intervention – the weather just opened up, like the gods knew of the impending marriage. The group unzipped their tents, only to be stunned by a glimpse of the Chaukhamba (23,555ft), Nilkanth (21,766ft) and the majestic Nanda Ghunti that loomed in front. As the sun came up, the snow began to melt and drained off the slopes like raindrops bouncing off a lotus leaf. The ground seemed like a lush green carpet sequined with yellow and purple flowers. While the wedding was on, a huge flock of sheep gatecrashed the venue, accompanied by mountain horses and bhotiya dogs – like a huge marriage procession. At 11,000 ft, it did seem that marriages are indeed made in heaven.
The ceremony took place at the Nanda Devi temple. It’s alleged that eons ago Lord Shiva and Parvati got married at this very place. Out of sheer reverence or perhaps due to the fact that the place was so far flung, no one had got married here ever since. Strange as it sounded, after Shiva and Parvati ¬– right on the other end of the pigment spectrum – it was Mark and Liz. Just so that no feathers were ruffled, two priests came from Wan and oversaw the sacred thread ritual as part of Mark’s purification rites. Then came the problem of who’d give away the bride. Before an emotional Ghosh could find his voice, Gauri answered the priest that he was older and hence became Liz’s makeshift brother. Ghosh had to make do with being Mark’s best man.
The marriage ceremony lasted three hours. To maintain the sanctity of the temple, no non-veg was allowed, so the wedding feast was purely vegetarian – poori-alu, chholey and halwa. Some 30 guests came for the feast – local villagers, bhotiya tribesmen, Austrian and Danish trekkers. After the feast, there was a dance party and Mark’s only bottle of Glennfiddich was doled out in wartime ration amounts. The words of Bill Tilman rang true – “We live in an age of mechanization and in recent years it has become apparent that even mountaineering is in danger of becoming mechanized. It is therefore pleasing to record that in climbing Nanda Devi, no climbing aids were used, apart, that is, from the apricot brandy we took.” In sharp contrast, the trekking party had to make do with some atrocious hooch made from fermented rice and sheep meat, supplied by Golmaal, the caretaker of the small shack at Bedni.
The marriage euphoria lasted for a day and then it was back to regular trekking. The photographer, his porter, the pandits and the musicians returned from Bedni but Mark and Liz plodded on for two more weeks with the remaining skeletal team. After the first week the vegetables got over and they had to switch to tinned food like mushrooms, tuna and baked beans. Once some Bhotiyas sold an injured sheep (mauled by a leopard) for Rs.400. It was not lack of love but more a sense of reality that made them do so. But it meant a rare feast for the trekking party. At Bedni, they spotted the Himalayan Brown Bear, Himalayan Tahr, Yellow-throated Marten, Monal pheasants and the Himalayan Pika, a tame mouse hare that timidly peeped out of its burrow.
Though many trekked to Bedni Bugyal, few extended the trail to cover the Roop Kund and Kuari Pass treks in one go. The trail was partly on a centuries old pilgrim pathway that formed the Nanda Devi Raj jat yatra. After 21 days of trekking, the newly weds finally emerged at Joshimath. It was the sort of arduous journey that can break marriages, but in the case of this adventurous couple, it only strengthened the bond. Tired and weather-beaten, they drove in via Rishikesh to see the divine aarti at Har Ki Pauri in the evening and finally returned to Delhi heading straight from the railway station to Vikram’s house. Liz kicked a kalash (sacred vase) of rice at his doorstep and completed the formality of the house-entering ceremony. There was just enough time for lunch and a farewell party before the couple caught their flight back to London. Strangely, no one had told Liz about the vidai ritual but by some acquired instinct she cried like she was leaving her family behind.
Bedni Bugyal: Treasure trove of natural wonders
Since the whole area is part of the Nanda Devi Biosphere Reserve, it is rich in Himalayan flora and fauna. One can see Pika, Red Fox, Himalayan Tahr, Yellow-throated Marten, Snowcock and Mrs Gould’s Sunbird while Lammergeyers and Himalayan Griffons silently glide in the skies above. At Bhagubasa, you can sometimes see pugmarks of the Snow Leopard. Seeing it is difficult, which has earned it the name The Grey Ghost of the Himalayas. Near Kuari Pass, you can see bharal (Blue Bull), Himalayan Black Bear and the multi-coloured Himalayan Monal, the state bird of Uttaranchal and Nepal’s national bird.
Wild World India’s pointers towards responsible tourism
• Since most of the treks to Bedni and beyond are largely unmonitored, it has led to irresponsible travel and the mountains are facing degradation in terms of garbage. Don’t just bring back your garbage but make it a point to pick the litter of the more careless travelers before you.
• On account of Bedni’s rich floral heritage, there has been illegal herbal extraction on a mass scale for commercial gain. Do not encourage removal of endemic herbs or flowers.
• The Himalayan Monal is a beautiful pheasant that is sometimes poached for its meat and its feathers, which are used as tufts for caps. However, the shimmering beauty of the highly endangered Monal is best appreciated in the wild. Respect the Himalayan fauna.
Pictures: Prithvi Gill
When a British couple expressed their desire to get married in one of the world’s largest and highest meadows, you can’t dismiss it as high altitude sickness. It stems from something more; a serious malady called love. It was certainly the strangest request we had ever received. We prided ourselves in our ability to customize a tour to the liking of our clients but this was truly unusual. Couples have done it underwater, in outer space, even mid-air while skydiving but whoever heard of getting married on a trek!
It wasn’t a request you could politely turn down, as this was Mark’s third trip with Wild World India. Having grown up on legendary tales of British adventurers Shipton & Tillman (the first to scale Nanda Devi), Mark harboured the romantic notion of getting married on the Tillman’s trail. It was easier to get him married in Joshimath, where matrimonial trappings were easily available or at Wan, where he just had to go around a temple to be married, without the help of a priest. But having spent enough time in India, Mark was well versed with Indian traditions. He wanted an authentic Hindu wedding, a grand affair that ranked midway between a gandharva vivah and an ashwamedha yagna – with true-blood pahari musicians, a pandit to chant the Sanskrit shlokas, a menhdi artist for the bride, a cook who could easily switch between pasta and paalak and a professional photographer to capture every single frame of this epic tale. In an earlier trip Mark got engaged at the Ganesh temple inside the 1000-year-old Ranthambhore fort.
A fortnight before the couple flew into Delhi; Chief Naturalist of Wild World India Sumantha Ghosh did an extensive reconnaissance trip to Bedni. Ghosh’s first job was to assemble his crew. The keyword was fitness. If the priest fumbled on his mantras but didn’t stumble on his step, he was in. Since it was the marriage season in the mountains, two priests were sourced with great difficulty from the Sanskrit Academy in Ramnagar. They were quite fit, for each had to carry 20 kg sacks of sacred knickknacks including 3-4 sacred brass bells of varying sizes. Four local village musicians were sourced from Loharjung Pass, the base-camp of the trek. With a dhol, a small percussion instrument, a bagpipe and a local clarinet, the Bedni Quartet was complete. Devender, the regular excursion cook was an expert who could easily stir up a 4-course meal. A local tracker, two porters and 4 horses were kept on standby to carry kerosene, stoves, camping equipment, kitchen tent, luggage, toilet tent and provisions for the 21-day trek.
With the tough part out of the way, Ghosh was onto his next step – actually doing the trek to figure out the lay of the land, proximity to a water source, vantage points for romantic stopovers and nitty-gritties like which way the bride’s tent should face. Gauri, the soft-spoken fleet-footed mountain man who led most trekking expeditions for Wild World India, accompanied Ghosh. Together, they did the trek in seven days and returned to Delhi with just enough time to finalize the photographer. By the end of Ghosh’s lengthy discourse on ‘Once-in-a-lifetime-opportunities’ and lured by the untold magic of Bedni, Prithvi Gill agreed. With 4 cameras and as many lenses, it amounted to 35-40 kg for his porter, plus 20 kg for himself. Two days later, with heaving breaths and big smiles pasted on their faces, Ghosh and Gauri received Mark and Liz at the airport. The mad marriage was on.
After the overnight train-ride to Ramnagar, it was a further 10-hour drive to Loharjung, from where Tapovan (the end of the trail) was 125 km. Since it wasn’t the distance but the altitude you covered in a day that mattered, the team stayed the night at Loharjung to acclimatize and started next morning after an early breakfast.
The first leg was a 5-hour trek that led down into the temperate forests of the Gyan Ganga Valley, across the river and uphill above the small village of Didana where they set up camp. The second day was far more grueling. The altitudinal gain of 2000m took the team right above the tree line, where the air got thinner and everyone could feel its dehydrating effect. As they approached Bedni Pass, a sudden hailstorm enveloped them. It snowed heavily; the temperature plummeted to sub-zero and the lashing wind turned more hostile. Luckily, the group made it to the log hut before dark. It was the night before marriage. While the eggs boiled, the menhdi paste was prepared. In the mountains, they apply menhdi even to the bridegroom. In accordance to strict Hindu traditions the couple was politely asked to stay apart till the next morning.
Next day – through some cosmic intervention – the weather just opened up, like the gods knew of the impending marriage. The group unzipped their tents, only to be stunned by a glimpse of the Chaukhamba (23,555ft), Nilkanth (21,766ft) and the majestic Nanda Ghunti that loomed in front. As the sun came up, the snow began to melt and drained off the slopes like raindrops bouncing off a lotus leaf. The ground seemed like a lush green carpet sequined with yellow and purple flowers. While the wedding was on, a huge flock of sheep gatecrashed the venue, accompanied by mountain horses and bhotiya dogs – like a huge marriage procession. At 11,000 ft, it did seem that marriages are indeed made in heaven.
The ceremony took place at the Nanda Devi temple. It’s alleged that eons ago Lord Shiva and Parvati got married at this very place. Out of sheer reverence or perhaps due to the fact that the place was so far flung, no one had got married here ever since. Strange as it sounded, after Shiva and Parvati ¬– right on the other end of the pigment spectrum – it was Mark and Liz. Just so that no feathers were ruffled, two priests came from Wan and oversaw the sacred thread ritual as part of Mark’s purification rites. Then came the problem of who’d give away the bride. Before an emotional Ghosh could find his voice, Gauri answered the priest that he was older and hence became Liz’s makeshift brother. Ghosh had to make do with being Mark’s best man.
The marriage ceremony lasted three hours. To maintain the sanctity of the temple, no non-veg was allowed, so the wedding feast was purely vegetarian – poori-alu, chholey and halwa. Some 30 guests came for the feast – local villagers, bhotiya tribesmen, Austrian and Danish trekkers. After the feast, there was a dance party and Mark’s only bottle of Glennfiddich was doled out in wartime ration amounts. The words of Bill Tilman rang true – “We live in an age of mechanization and in recent years it has become apparent that even mountaineering is in danger of becoming mechanized. It is therefore pleasing to record that in climbing Nanda Devi, no climbing aids were used, apart, that is, from the apricot brandy we took.” In sharp contrast, the trekking party had to make do with some atrocious hooch made from fermented rice and sheep meat, supplied by Golmaal, the caretaker of the small shack at Bedni.
The marriage euphoria lasted for a day and then it was back to regular trekking. The photographer, his porter, the pandits and the musicians returned from Bedni but Mark and Liz plodded on for two more weeks with the remaining skeletal team. After the first week the vegetables got over and they had to switch to tinned food like mushrooms, tuna and baked beans. Once some Bhotiyas sold an injured sheep (mauled by a leopard) for Rs.400. It was not lack of love but more a sense of reality that made them do so. But it meant a rare feast for the trekking party. At Bedni, they spotted the Himalayan Brown Bear, Himalayan Tahr, Yellow-throated Marten, Monal pheasants and the Himalayan Pika, a tame mouse hare that timidly peeped out of its burrow.
Though many trekked to Bedni Bugyal, few extended the trail to cover the Roop Kund and Kuari Pass treks in one go. The trail was partly on a centuries old pilgrim pathway that formed the Nanda Devi Raj jat yatra. After 21 days of trekking, the newly weds finally emerged at Joshimath. It was the sort of arduous journey that can break marriages, but in the case of this adventurous couple, it only strengthened the bond. Tired and weather-beaten, they drove in via Rishikesh to see the divine aarti at Har Ki Pauri in the evening and finally returned to Delhi heading straight from the railway station to Vikram’s house. Liz kicked a kalash (sacred vase) of rice at his doorstep and completed the formality of the house-entering ceremony. There was just enough time for lunch and a farewell party before the couple caught their flight back to London. Strangely, no one had told Liz about the vidai ritual but by some acquired instinct she cried like she was leaving her family behind.
Bedni Bugyal: Treasure trove of natural wonders
Since the whole area is part of the Nanda Devi Biosphere Reserve, it is rich in Himalayan flora and fauna. One can see Pika, Red Fox, Himalayan Tahr, Yellow-throated Marten, Snowcock and Mrs Gould’s Sunbird while Lammergeyers and Himalayan Griffons silently glide in the skies above. At Bhagubasa, you can sometimes see pugmarks of the Snow Leopard. Seeing it is difficult, which has earned it the name The Grey Ghost of the Himalayas. Near Kuari Pass, you can see bharal (Blue Bull), Himalayan Black Bear and the multi-coloured Himalayan Monal, the state bird of Uttaranchal and Nepal’s national bird.
Wild World India’s pointers towards responsible tourism
• Since most of the treks to Bedni and beyond are largely unmonitored, it has led to irresponsible travel and the mountains are facing degradation in terms of garbage. Don’t just bring back your garbage but make it a point to pick the litter of the more careless travelers before you.
• On account of Bedni’s rich floral heritage, there has been illegal herbal extraction on a mass scale for commercial gain. Do not encourage removal of endemic herbs or flowers.
• The Himalayan Monal is a beautiful pheasant that is sometimes poached for its meat and its feathers, which are used as tufts for caps. However, the shimmering beauty of the highly endangered Monal is best appreciated in the wild. Respect the Himalayan fauna.
Pictures: Prithvi Gill
Natural & cultural heritage of North India (6-27 Feb, 2006)
By Andrew Major
There were 4 of us on this tour, all from New Jersey, U.S.A.: my wife and I & 2 friends. Most of it took place in Rajasthan. Our aim was to see the cultural highlights of this region and to see as much as possible of the wonders of the natural world that are left. We planned the itinerary together with Wild World India and all the logistics were arranged by them.
Our first stop was Agra where we visited the Agra Fort with an excellent guide who gave us as much information as we wanted about it's history. The next day, early in the morning we went to see the magnificent Taj Mahal. We have seen it before but we would not miss a chance to see it again. When one is in Agra it is a must to see one of the marble factories. The works of art that are produced there are truly amazing. On the way to Bharatpur we stopped at Fatehpur Sikri, Victory City, which we have seen before but our friends did not. It is a wonderful example of Mughal architecture, definitely worth a visit.
In the afternoon we arrived to the city of Bharatpur. Our destination was the famous bird sanctuary, Keoladeo National Park, a World Heritage Site. We stayed in a comfortable hotel close to the refuge and were taken to the park every day by rickshaws. Our local naturalist guide was Brijendra Singh, trained by the famous Salim Ali. Although his knowledge of English was somewhat limited, Brijendra knew everything about Keoladeo: the geology, the plants and of course the birds. He showed us a lot of birds we would have never found ourselves, such as the large-tailed nightjar, the brown hawk owl (both at close range) and several Indian coursers. We saw 5 species of owls and 6 species of eagles as well as a flock of 200-300 white pelicans. We enjoyed several boat rides and saw quite a few mammals while we were looking for birds: good numbers of spotted deer, nilgai, sambar, jackals, rhesus macaques, striped squirrels, even 3 jungle cats. Being of Rajput descent and taught us a great deal about Hindu customs. He was one of the best guides we ever had.
We took the train from Bharatpur to Sawai Madopur, near Ranthambhore National Park. Most people who come here have one aim in mind: to see a tiger. Even if we had not seen a tiger it would have been worth it because the park is scenic and has a large number of ungulates (spotted deer, sambar, nilgai, wild boar) which is the prerequisite for having tigers. We also saw a good number of birds. However, after a lot of driving we were rewarded with the sight of more than one tiger: a mother and her cubs.
We spent 3 nights at the Ranthambhore Bagh in a comfortable Swiss tent. At the end of our stay a minivan picked us up and we headed to Jaipur (the Pink City). There we checked in at the Raj Palace, formerly a haveli, belonging to Thakur Raj Singhji. The family can trace its lineage back to 1503. This was one of the highlights of the trip. The place was so artistically decorated it is worth to see a few pictures. One of the granddaughters, Jayendra spent a great deal of her time doing the renovations and furnishings.
In Jaipur we visited the Amber Fort. Elephants took us up to the fort. A local guide led us through this impressive monument and gave us a great deal of background information. Then we flew to Jodhpur. We stayed at the Balsamand Garden Retreat, a pleasant place with a large garden that had many Hanuman langurs and a colony of Indian flying foxes. There was a lake on the property which, at the time we were there had a large number of shorebirds and ducks. The garden might have qualified for a botanical garden, with many nice specimen trees that were labeled. From here we made a trip to the Mehrangarh Fort, another highlight of the trip. A proud Rajput, Himmat Singh was our guide. He worked at the Fort for the maharaja for 15 years, so he had a good knowledge of the place and its history. He also gave us a good insight into Rajput life. For us it was very valuable to have this contact with the local people. We found all the locals we met to be courteous and helpful. We spent a whole day at the Fort and its surroundings and could have spent even more time.
From Jodhpur a minibus took us to the little town of Phalodi. On the way we stopped at Osiyan to inspect the famous Jain temples. It seemed that we were to only tourists there at the time. Luckily a local young man spoke good enough English to explain the significance of the various statues and to instruct us on what we can and cannot do. There were several temples. We saw the Sun Temple (Suraya) and the Temple of Mahavira, the last prophet. The head Brahmin in the latter temple gave us a tour. We learned a little about the complexities of Hindu religion. We met school groups and several worshippers as we walked through. Later on, on the way back from Phalodi we saw more Jain temples at Ranakpur.
In the afternoon we arrived to Phalodi. The reason we wanted to come here was to see the feeding of the Demoiselle cranes in the village of Khichan, which is near Phalodi. Our accommodations at Lal Nivas Hotel were unique. The place was another heritage property with a lot of local flavor. The menu was strictly vegetarian with local recipes and was quite delicious. Mr. Sharma, the assistant manager was extremely helpful and introduced us to the elders at Khichan. They were the leaders of the community, who were also the ones responsible for the various charities, such as the crane feeding and the operation of the local refuge for homeless cattle. Cows have religious significance for Hindus and are not harmed. In fact, we have hardly seen any animals hit by car inspite of the fact that the roads are heavily populated with all kinds of domesticated animals.
Demoiselle cranes winter in many other places in Rajasthan but this normally vary bird can be seen at close range at the feeding station. We will never forget their sights and sounds as they flew over us and around us. A family allowed us to view the birds from the roof of their house. This was fortunate, as we had an excellent vantage point; we could see the sand dunes where the cranes were resting and the courtyard where the feeding took place was directly below us.
The next stop was the city of Rohet. From here we made excursions to the countryside. To our relief, one morning Himmat Singh showed up again to take us to a Bishnoi village. The Bishnoi are noted for their reverence for nature and are the guardians of the local wildlife. In fact, the only place we saw blackbucks on this tour was on Bishnoi land. Our experience with the locals here was again very pleasant and educational. We were invited by a Bishnoi family to their farm to see how they live. We also visited various craftsmen at Kakani village. We learned for the first time the meaning of common Indian names (Kumar=potter, Patel=farmer, Dhari=weaver).
After Rohet a brief visit followed to Ranakpur to view the Jain temples, then to Udaipur, where we saw the Udaipur Palace. We flew from Udaipur to Delhi. There we met our (by now) familiar drivers with the minibus and headed directly to Corbett National Park. First we stayed outside the park at Vanghat, a camp established by Wild World India. It is a rustic place in a picturesque setting, on the bank of the Ramganga River. It was a little adventure getting there; our jeep forded the Ramganga River several times.We spent 3 nights there and really liked it. The birding was good in the forest as well along the river. The soaring mountain hawk eagle, grey-headed and Pallas's fish eagle became common sights.2 species of kingfishers, brown dipper, plumbeous and white-headed water redstarts, blue whistling thrushes, wagtails, lapwings made the river walk an enjoyable experience. We often saw the pugmarks of a tiger as we walked along the riverbank and once a goral (goat-antelope) crossed the river and disappeared on the steep mountainside. Once we watched a flock of scarlet minivets bathing in a small stream. Unforgettable. I almost forgot to mention the famous Mahseer fish, a type of barb, that was numerous in the Ramganga.
The final leg of our journey was Corbett National Park. The landscape was beautiful. This is tiger country. We saw pugmarks several times and had fleeting looks at 2 different tigers. There was plenty of potential prey: spotted deer, sambar, hog deer, wild boar. We saw a small family of elephants and a massive solitary bull that appeared to be in musth, judging by the draining temporal gland. Sighting the ancient gharial and the mugger crocodiles added to our reptile list. We looked for the diminutive small-clawed otters in vain. Although we did not come upon a tiger while on the elephant's back, it was a unique experience. Afterwards we fed her some 'jagaree' (sugarcane loaf). She thanked us by saluting with her trunk.
Remarkable birds for us were the black storks, crested tree swifts, the beautiful green bee-eaters, the handsome black francolin, not to mention the different nuthatches and woodpeckers and the impressive cinereous vulture. We definitely would have spent more time at Corbett if we had the time. We left with filled memory cards (in our cameras) and memories for a lifetime.
Photo credits: A. Major, A. Hoffenberg
There were 4 of us on this tour, all from New Jersey, U.S.A.: my wife and I & 2 friends. Most of it took place in Rajasthan. Our aim was to see the cultural highlights of this region and to see as much as possible of the wonders of the natural world that are left. We planned the itinerary together with Wild World India and all the logistics were arranged by them.
Our first stop was Agra where we visited the Agra Fort with an excellent guide who gave us as much information as we wanted about it's history. The next day, early in the morning we went to see the magnificent Taj Mahal. We have seen it before but we would not miss a chance to see it again. When one is in Agra it is a must to see one of the marble factories. The works of art that are produced there are truly amazing. On the way to Bharatpur we stopped at Fatehpur Sikri, Victory City, which we have seen before but our friends did not. It is a wonderful example of Mughal architecture, definitely worth a visit.
In the afternoon we arrived to the city of Bharatpur. Our destination was the famous bird sanctuary, Keoladeo National Park, a World Heritage Site. We stayed in a comfortable hotel close to the refuge and were taken to the park every day by rickshaws. Our local naturalist guide was Brijendra Singh, trained by the famous Salim Ali. Although his knowledge of English was somewhat limited, Brijendra knew everything about Keoladeo: the geology, the plants and of course the birds. He showed us a lot of birds we would have never found ourselves, such as the large-tailed nightjar, the brown hawk owl (both at close range) and several Indian coursers. We saw 5 species of owls and 6 species of eagles as well as a flock of 200-300 white pelicans. We enjoyed several boat rides and saw quite a few mammals while we were looking for birds: good numbers of spotted deer, nilgai, sambar, jackals, rhesus macaques, striped squirrels, even 3 jungle cats. Being of Rajput descent and taught us a great deal about Hindu customs. He was one of the best guides we ever had.
We took the train from Bharatpur to Sawai Madopur, near Ranthambhore National Park. Most people who come here have one aim in mind: to see a tiger. Even if we had not seen a tiger it would have been worth it because the park is scenic and has a large number of ungulates (spotted deer, sambar, nilgai, wild boar) which is the prerequisite for having tigers. We also saw a good number of birds. However, after a lot of driving we were rewarded with the sight of more than one tiger: a mother and her cubs.
We spent 3 nights at the Ranthambhore Bagh in a comfortable Swiss tent. At the end of our stay a minivan picked us up and we headed to Jaipur (the Pink City). There we checked in at the Raj Palace, formerly a haveli, belonging to Thakur Raj Singhji. The family can trace its lineage back to 1503. This was one of the highlights of the trip. The place was so artistically decorated it is worth to see a few pictures. One of the granddaughters, Jayendra spent a great deal of her time doing the renovations and furnishings.
In Jaipur we visited the Amber Fort. Elephants took us up to the fort. A local guide led us through this impressive monument and gave us a great deal of background information. Then we flew to Jodhpur. We stayed at the Balsamand Garden Retreat, a pleasant place with a large garden that had many Hanuman langurs and a colony of Indian flying foxes. There was a lake on the property which, at the time we were there had a large number of shorebirds and ducks. The garden might have qualified for a botanical garden, with many nice specimen trees that were labeled. From here we made a trip to the Mehrangarh Fort, another highlight of the trip. A proud Rajput, Himmat Singh was our guide. He worked at the Fort for the maharaja for 15 years, so he had a good knowledge of the place and its history. He also gave us a good insight into Rajput life. For us it was very valuable to have this contact with the local people. We found all the locals we met to be courteous and helpful. We spent a whole day at the Fort and its surroundings and could have spent even more time.
From Jodhpur a minibus took us to the little town of Phalodi. On the way we stopped at Osiyan to inspect the famous Jain temples. It seemed that we were to only tourists there at the time. Luckily a local young man spoke good enough English to explain the significance of the various statues and to instruct us on what we can and cannot do. There were several temples. We saw the Sun Temple (Suraya) and the Temple of Mahavira, the last prophet. The head Brahmin in the latter temple gave us a tour. We learned a little about the complexities of Hindu religion. We met school groups and several worshippers as we walked through. Later on, on the way back from Phalodi we saw more Jain temples at Ranakpur.
In the afternoon we arrived to Phalodi. The reason we wanted to come here was to see the feeding of the Demoiselle cranes in the village of Khichan, which is near Phalodi. Our accommodations at Lal Nivas Hotel were unique. The place was another heritage property with a lot of local flavor. The menu was strictly vegetarian with local recipes and was quite delicious. Mr. Sharma, the assistant manager was extremely helpful and introduced us to the elders at Khichan. They were the leaders of the community, who were also the ones responsible for the various charities, such as the crane feeding and the operation of the local refuge for homeless cattle. Cows have religious significance for Hindus and are not harmed. In fact, we have hardly seen any animals hit by car inspite of the fact that the roads are heavily populated with all kinds of domesticated animals.
Demoiselle cranes winter in many other places in Rajasthan but this normally vary bird can be seen at close range at the feeding station. We will never forget their sights and sounds as they flew over us and around us. A family allowed us to view the birds from the roof of their house. This was fortunate, as we had an excellent vantage point; we could see the sand dunes where the cranes were resting and the courtyard where the feeding took place was directly below us.
The next stop was the city of Rohet. From here we made excursions to the countryside. To our relief, one morning Himmat Singh showed up again to take us to a Bishnoi village. The Bishnoi are noted for their reverence for nature and are the guardians of the local wildlife. In fact, the only place we saw blackbucks on this tour was on Bishnoi land. Our experience with the locals here was again very pleasant and educational. We were invited by a Bishnoi family to their farm to see how they live. We also visited various craftsmen at Kakani village. We learned for the first time the meaning of common Indian names (Kumar=potter, Patel=farmer, Dhari=weaver).
After Rohet a brief visit followed to Ranakpur to view the Jain temples, then to Udaipur, where we saw the Udaipur Palace. We flew from Udaipur to Delhi. There we met our (by now) familiar drivers with the minibus and headed directly to Corbett National Park. First we stayed outside the park at Vanghat, a camp established by Wild World India. It is a rustic place in a picturesque setting, on the bank of the Ramganga River. It was a little adventure getting there; our jeep forded the Ramganga River several times.We spent 3 nights there and really liked it. The birding was good in the forest as well along the river. The soaring mountain hawk eagle, grey-headed and Pallas's fish eagle became common sights.2 species of kingfishers, brown dipper, plumbeous and white-headed water redstarts, blue whistling thrushes, wagtails, lapwings made the river walk an enjoyable experience. We often saw the pugmarks of a tiger as we walked along the riverbank and once a goral (goat-antelope) crossed the river and disappeared on the steep mountainside. Once we watched a flock of scarlet minivets bathing in a small stream. Unforgettable. I almost forgot to mention the famous Mahseer fish, a type of barb, that was numerous in the Ramganga.
The final leg of our journey was Corbett National Park. The landscape was beautiful. This is tiger country. We saw pugmarks several times and had fleeting looks at 2 different tigers. There was plenty of potential prey: spotted deer, sambar, hog deer, wild boar. We saw a small family of elephants and a massive solitary bull that appeared to be in musth, judging by the draining temporal gland. Sighting the ancient gharial and the mugger crocodiles added to our reptile list. We looked for the diminutive small-clawed otters in vain. Although we did not come upon a tiger while on the elephant's back, it was a unique experience. Afterwards we fed her some 'jagaree' (sugarcane loaf). She thanked us by saluting with her trunk.
Remarkable birds for us were the black storks, crested tree swifts, the beautiful green bee-eaters, the handsome black francolin, not to mention the different nuthatches and woodpeckers and the impressive cinereous vulture. We definitely would have spent more time at Corbett if we had the time. We left with filled memory cards (in our cameras) and memories for a lifetime.
Photo credits: A. Major, A. Hoffenberg
Tuesday, November 21, 2006
Gujarat & Corbett Wildlife Tour (3/20 January, 2006)
~ Notes on Birds, Mammals and Reptiles
Joergen Bech & Jette Lyager (Copenhagen, Denmark)
Photo: Nanak Dhingra
This trip to Gujarat – and the Corbett-extension – became a unique experience, a trip of its own atmosphere. We were in India in 1971 – that is Jette and I, so this was a communion – a re-visit 35 years after! I was back in 1986, and shortly from Nepal also in 1998 – thus being familiar with most of the birdlife of Northern Inidia. So we turned to Gujarat. With its exquisite bird species, mammals, habitats, and culture. Being only the 2 of us it became in many ways a trans-cultural birding trip. This was due esp. to our driver and friend Laxman Shah, the ecologist and scientist Jugal Tiwari in Kutch, and Dhanraj Malik of the famous Camp Zainibad. Part of this synthesis was culture – from the reality of India 2006 to remote traditional villages and the highly active religious life 3000 stairs up in the Jain temples of Palitana.
Great Indian Bustard, Eastern Houbara, Painted Sandgrouse, Sykes´Nightjar, Hypocolius, Stoliczkas´s Busch-Chat, White-naped Tit, Grey-necked Bunting - all main targets found on our route through Gujarat. We only heard the Lions of Gir Forest but was more than compensated by a very good observation of Leopard. In Gujarat we followed the concept and contacts made by Uffe Gjøl Sørensen the year before. So – thanks to Uffe!
The Corbett-concept had one target: Finding Tiger! I had been in Corbett before (1986) – and also been through Ranthambhore and Chitwan, but always failed to see the world’s most superb animal. So through Vikram Singh (Wild World India) we had made a purposeful plan for this. We had one day in the foothills around Nainital (Rufous-bellied Woodpecker, Black-throated Accentor) just to breathe the atmosphere before entering Corbett.
Result: An incredible 7 Tigers on 4 observations and in paradise itself = Corbett. Mahender Singh was the master-guide, the Mahawat Farouck responsible for our first Tiger seen a few meters away from elephant back. Collateral birding produced Hodgson´s Bush-Chat and many well-known Corbett-species.
Itinerary
3 January
An interesting and most unexpected prologue to the trip occurred on the way from half a days’ work in Koege to Copenhagen. Denmark’s first Bimaculated Lark roosting at the shores of Stauning´s Island just north of Koege. Rushed out to fellow twitchers just in time to see the lark. One hour later in the taxi for the airport with Jette, told her about this good omen for the trip. Actually, we did not see Bimaculated Larks in Gujarat! Evening in London, night in the air heading for Bombay.
4 January
Arrival Bombay 12.00, later domestic flight to Ahmedabad. Revisited 34.5 years after! Picked up by Laxman – creating our Gujarat team of 3. Laxman drove off taking us into the chaos of traffic, dense population and pollution. We drove for Utelia arriving after dark. Suddenly here in the silence of the village, knocking on the gate of the old Utelia Castle, a bit damaged by the 2001-earthquake but still towering over the small village. Here we spent the night.
5 January
Utelia 8.00-10.00. Walked through the village to surrounding fields and riverine scrub. Large flocks of Short-toed Larks, 450 Roseate Starlings, and Sykes’ Warbler. Drive to Lothal (10.30), visiting the excavations of the 4500-year-old Harappan culture. The only Indian (lesser) Spotted Eagle found here close to the dirt road, some birds too in the scrubs including (Eastern) Orphean Warbler and another – Sykes.
Drove on heading for Velavadar with stops, esp. at a river creek with a lot of waterbirds and Greater Spotted Eagle. Generally the surrounding farmlands were industrial crops including a lot of cotton – the impact of this, including large-scale use of pesticides on birdlife was obvious. The huge flocks of birds we remembered from our early trips to India were gone. Black-winged Kites seemed to survive, but vultures were gone. Black Kites were few and only in towns.
Velavadar 14.30-18.15. A remnant of the vast grasslands of Gujarat. No overnight stay so we had limited time in this great habitat with flocks of Blackbucks scattered all over. Clouds of Short-toed Larks, some Rufous-tailed Larks and 2+2 of the endemic Sykes’ Crested Lark. Also 2 Long-billed Pipits. At least 700 Common Cranes esp. in the buffer-zone around the reserve and one beautiful Demoiselle Crane standing with 5 Black Storks. Time revealed this bird to be the only Demoiselle of the trip – not so easy to see in mid-winter in Gujarat. At dusk the famous movement of Harriers began. They swept in from all directions, passing by and settled in groups on roads and in the grass. We counted 340 birds – old male-ratio gave an estimate of Montague´s Harrier 220 and Pallid Harrier 120. A very spectacular sight! No doubt additional times can be well spent here – notabilities as Laggar Falcon and Lesser Florican are possible here, the latter requires a very good luck out of breeding season – a flock of wolves still survive. After dark Laxman took us to Palitana. Stayed at Hotel Sumero, basic but ok!
6 January
Palitana – Day of our “pilgrimage” to Shatrunjaya Hills 6.30-12.15 visiting the Jain temple-complex at the top. 3500 steps take you to the top – we made it in 1 hour, 10 min. Laxman preferred to stay at the bottom. It is a unique experience to join the pilgrims, the atmosphere very spiritual and very friendly. In addition hillside birding on the descent was quite good – i.e. a surprise – Sulphur-bellied Warbler and Rock Bush-Quail. In the meantime Jette got instructions of how to become a holy Jain woman. Anyway – we both decided to head on – a long drive for Gir. Still – where have all the birds gone? Sarus? The thousands of doves and starlings? Interestingly enough Black Ibis seems to be rather resistant to this environmental disaster. 7 birds. Arrived at Gir Birding Lodge at Sasan Gir (pre-booked). Services and arrangements were splendid, but the place lacked some atmosphere and it was the only place where our driver and friend Laxman did not have a good time.
7 January + 8 January
Gir Forest – a target-locality not reached in 1971 but this time we made it. The habitat is open dry woodland in the hills. This means quite a low diversity of birds but some specialities. And the potential two big cats!
We made game drives morning and afternoon/evening at both days. Guide and driver is compulsory. Also we were accompanied by Ganesh from the lodge, a Nepalese nature-guide working here because of the situation in Nepal. A very able man, despite only a short time in Gir. No doubt this is the place of the last Asiatic Lions. Classic male roars heard several times – a familiar sound from Africa. Lots of prints. But we never saw them – Lions are much more easy to watch on open African savannahs than in this more closed environment. One evening we caught up with a Leopard. A glorious big male, leisurely walking and roosting on the forest-floor, could be watched in 50 minutes before retreating. Leopard! Spots…
Birds: A good selection of raptors – first gyps as 4 Long-billed Vultures soared over hilltops. Also Short-toed, Tawny, Bonelli’s and Booted Eagles and White-eyed Buzzards. Dry habitat birds like Yellow-footed Pigeon, Marshall’s Iora and Thick-billed Flowerpecker. But the prize goes to Painted Sandgrouse seen 3 times as pairs on almost un-vegetated hills, very discreet and cryptic in pastel colours, but once found, allowed extremely close observations.
9 January
Drove off early morning from Gir heading for Kutch. Passed a lake NE of Gir with some waterbirds including Great Thick-Knee. It was a long and tough day on the Indian roads, Laxman had a hard time. In the afternoon we passed the bridge crossing the Greater Rann of Kutch, a huge tidal area with lagoons, sandbars etc. Only briefly birded as we expected more time at the return. Darkness came at Bhuj. We headed on eventually meeting Jugal Tiwari in the village Mota-Virani and were installed at Jugal’s place (Center of Desert and Ocean) just outside the village – staying here the next three nights. Facilities were fine to our needs, whether staying in the room or in the tents. Splendid Gujarati food! It was a very good experience to meet Jugal, his wife and son. Jugal is a vary competent person, scientifically trained, and extremely committed to the nature and wildlife of Kutch and has a hard job standing against the major threats to this unique habitat, especially the charcoal industry.
10 January
A 10 km drive before dawn took us to Fulay – a small traditional village – and the huge Bani Grasslands. We were at the traditional Hypocolius-roost, but the place had recently been seriously disturbed so nerves were on the edge! The early yellowish light seeped in on the plains. Dark spots scattered in the few acacias took the forms of Steppe Eagles as the light progressed, flocks of Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse rushed over.
At the roost nothing happened – bulbuls only. At 8.00 we were sure that the roost had moved! At last a single male Hypocolius popped up to its position in the top of an acacia. A legend of the deserts – and taxonomy! Great relief! A single Cream-coloured Courser found by Jette. The grassland – endless flats, numerous rodents and the predators: Steppe Eagles and some Long-legged Buzzards. We stayed some hours in Fulay – they had beautiful carpets for sale. Returned to the camp at 12.00.
In the afternoon a long walk in the hills behind Mota-Virani birding with Jugal. Marshalls Iora, Spotted Owlet and good numbers of Wheatears (Desert and Variable). But the main target was Jugal’s bird – the endemic and endangered White-naped Tit. At last a small mixed flock were located dominated by Small Minivet. And the tits! 2 nice White-naped Tits that could be followed the next ½ hour moving restlessly between groups of acacias controlling the pods for infestations with larvae.
11 January
Jugal had received a new guest – a wealthy man from Bombay. He wants to see the GIB! (Great Indian Bustard). So based a trip to the Lala area about 100 km from the camp, arriving at about 8.30. It is a huge area of dried up grassland, the bustards can be quite difficult (Jugal drew a blank on his last trip), so we had to work hard. Indian Coursers were common here – about 30 birds readily seen. No bustards. At last I saw some birds flying away in the distant haze, barely visible, but just compatible with GIB. The man from Bombay believed that it had been a hallucination but Jugal decided to drive after the sight. 5 km off-road and later we located 5 male Great Indian Bustards, approached and observed the next ½ hours before the flock vanished into a small stand of acacias. Mission completed! From one endangered species to the next:
Stoliczka´s Bush-Chat found on the traditional spot along the gravel road to the watchtower of the Lala reserve. A female + a male, the latter giving “sub-puff-and-rolls” when disturbed, fine observations of this terrestrial Bush-chat. At about 12.00 we left Lala heading for the seacoast at Pingleshwar, having lunch at the small Wat and enjoying empty sandy beaches as far as we could see. Dolphins, Great Thick-Knee, Osprey. Later crossing cranefields (ab. 800 Common Cranes) ending at Poldaria about 16.00-17.30, an isolated farm in empty barren hill-country. We had a stop at a small stream which attracted birds in the otherwise dry country. It paid off! Grey-necked Bunting – 3, esp. a close nice male, the third “Ortolan”. The farm is a rehabilitation centre or hospice for ill or traumatized cattle, with a religious background. The carcasses are dumped on nearby hills creating one of the best places for vultures left with up to 400. In late evening we saw 145 vultures – White-backed Vultures and Eurasian Griffons (about 4:1) in competition with the all too numerous stray-dogs haunting India in the “post-vulture” era. Another good sighting was a flock of 6 Yellow-wattled Lapwings. Late return to the camp with Indian Nightjar and Barred Button-quail in the dusk.
In the evening 3 men from the village played traditional hymns – a small fire is on. January-nights are cold on the plains.
12 January
Nice morning-walk with Jugal before leaving at about 10.00. At Bhuj a single White-backed Vulture. Crossed back over the bridge of Greater Rann. Indian Sandlark, many Slender-billed Gulls, a single Mongolian Plover among common waders, flamingos, and western reef egrets. Zainabad reached at 15.00 - marked by 140 Roseate Starlings. Staying at Desert Camp (Dhanraj Malik). Malik’s place is an ornithologists paradise. Relaxed, nice, outstanding food! Birds and Khur at the campsite. The Maliks are local rulers – but also very dedicated birders and extremely helpful to assist your ornithological wishes!
13 January
Little Rann of Kutch 8.30-13.00 – long trip with D Malik. Rann means “the place where nothing grows”. Driving out on the vast empty pans leaves a most complete silence. Only the numerous castings of flamingo-feet in the dried up clay show that here were water during the monsoon. Vegetation is around the “islands” and around here is wildlife: Flocks of Khur – the wild ass – still survive here in good numbers. 2 Eastern Houbaras were located, a wintering and now rare species, it was a male and a female/immature male. Nearby Hoopoe-Larks and Desert Warbler! Crossing back we met camel-nomads (Jodh-people from Sind) and passed old villages with old gates and remnants of harbours from the time when the Rann was still passable by boat! Afternoon relaxed in the campsite. Booted Warbler, Orphean Warbler, Wryneck, Roseate Starling.
Dhanraj Malik expected a British bird group to come – they wanted only one bird: Sykes’ Nightjar. So we headed for Malik’s nightjar-fields to be absolutely sure that the species was available! At dusk some 300 Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse, then starting the exiting nightjar-scan on ploughed, unvegetated fields. Moon was clear, making it a bit difficult to locate and later fixate the birds in the spotlight. With progressing darkness we managed to find about 15 nightjars. 2 were caught and in the hand could be safely identified as a Sykes’ Nightjar male + female. Probably all these birds were Sykes’ - another 5 could be identified. Only 1 Indian Nightjar was seen – on the tarmac road when we returned. Yellow-wattled Lapwing and Short-eared Owl also seen scanning fields in the dark
14 January
Pronounced our day of wetlands of Zainabad. The Maliks had a family-day so we left the 3 of us + 2 of Malik’s people in the morning to bird lakes around Patdi. 3 lakes very close, 3 different habitats: The first a typical flamingo-flat and the 2500 Lesser Flamingos was like being in Rift Valley! 300 juveniles – so some breeding success. The next lake a deep, fish-rich lake – White Pelican 190 and Dalmatian Pelican 5.The third lake is close to the village Himmatbura, the lake inaccessible (loaded with ducks) but the broad surrounding ring-channel is very good: Among more common waterbirds we eventually found Sarus Crane - 2 adult with 1 young, and a Great Bittern standing in the edge of reeds at close range, later flying into better cover. The Bittern is a rare bird here – in fact a new record to Zainabad according to the Maliks! Detail of this bird given in the species list
Afternoon relaxed in the camp including a surprise Rufous-tailed Scrub-Robin – a bird expected to be in Africa at this time of the year. Left late afternoon reaching the Hotel Host Inn in Ahmedabad after dark. At the very moment we parked here Laxman had his first and only puncture on the trip! It was time to split the Gujarat team, Laxman had made a fantastic job and we had to say goodbye with some sadness. Laxman went home for Udaipur, Jette and I were ready for Delhi the next morning.
15 January
All day travelling – morning flight Ahmedabad-Delhi, arr. 10.00. This last extension of the trip was planned in much detail through Vikram Singh of Wild World India. Vikram knew that we were birders but had one dominant target: Finding Tiger in Corbett. We were met in the airport and drove north heading for the foothills. Got stuck in Haldwani (we did the same in 1971!) but eventually reached Nainital after dark.
16 January
One day in the foothills spent in the good forest around Killbury Road and Pangot, 7.00-18.30. Probably we arrived an hour too late for the optimal chance to see pheasants, but we had a nostalgic day in the foothills. It was a cold and cloudy day, too misty for distant snow-views and not the best for raptors, but many fine observations during the day. Got 2 fine woodpeckers, Himalayan and esp. the beautiful Rufous-bellied Woodpecker, some phylloscopus, Orange-flanked Bluetail, Rufous-naped Tit, Pink-browed Rose-finch but the best were the accentors – Black-throated Accentor (in company with Rufous-breasted Accentor) at the edge of a small terraced field. Celebrated with chapati, egg-curry and tea at a small place nearby.
17 January
Passed the gate of Corbett at about 10.00. Tiger fever relapsed – 20 years after my first visit to Corbett. The chance was in our hands – that is esp. our guide Mahendra – a shy man of the forests, but very competent! Slow drive with stops at the Ramganga river. Gharial crocodile, Black and Black-necked Storks, Pallas’ Fish-Eagle and a flock of elephants on the Dhikala grassland. Mahendra proposed that we should try on elephant in the evening – there had been a tiger sighting in the grassland early morning. So we left with Farouk – our Mahawat – not for the grassland but into deep forest following alarm-calls of Chital. Eventually Farouk succeeded in locating the Tiger and our first Tiger was a big male within 2 meters from the elephant, angry and roaring being disturbed in its own territory. Went back to Dhikala – exhausted and happy!
18 January
Corbett NP, jeep with Mahender Negi all day ending at dusk at the watchtower of Dhikala. This was the day where Mahendra showed his capacity! During the day an incredible 6 tigers were seen. Early morning, a female + 2 1-year young close to Dhikala. In the middle of the day a male and a female tiger along the road close to Sarabduli. In the evening a female scoped from the watchtower on the grass-plains. A gallery of birds through the day – esp. Hodgson’s Bush-Chat 3 males, 2 females at the far end of the Dhikala grassland (preferred long grass, but not elephant grass!).
19 January
Corbett NP half day, 6.30-15.00. Additional birding, Brown Fish-Owl but no Tawny. Drive to Delhi in the afternoon. Met with Vikram and his colleague Gaurav in the evening having dinner and Kingfishers, after 16 days non-alcoholic they certainly had an effect! Vikram combines business with adventure. They had heard about the record of 7 tigers within 24 hours, so they certainly organised this part of our trip to perfection!
20 January
Morning flight out of India for Europe. We had observed 224 species of birds in Gujarat – not too bad. After Corbett and Nainital the count raised to 315 after these few days in the north.
Joergen Bech & Jette Lyager (Copenhagen, Denmark)
Photo: Nanak Dhingra
This trip to Gujarat – and the Corbett-extension – became a unique experience, a trip of its own atmosphere. We were in India in 1971 – that is Jette and I, so this was a communion – a re-visit 35 years after! I was back in 1986, and shortly from Nepal also in 1998 – thus being familiar with most of the birdlife of Northern Inidia. So we turned to Gujarat. With its exquisite bird species, mammals, habitats, and culture. Being only the 2 of us it became in many ways a trans-cultural birding trip. This was due esp. to our driver and friend Laxman Shah, the ecologist and scientist Jugal Tiwari in Kutch, and Dhanraj Malik of the famous Camp Zainibad. Part of this synthesis was culture – from the reality of India 2006 to remote traditional villages and the highly active religious life 3000 stairs up in the Jain temples of Palitana.
Great Indian Bustard, Eastern Houbara, Painted Sandgrouse, Sykes´Nightjar, Hypocolius, Stoliczkas´s Busch-Chat, White-naped Tit, Grey-necked Bunting - all main targets found on our route through Gujarat. We only heard the Lions of Gir Forest but was more than compensated by a very good observation of Leopard. In Gujarat we followed the concept and contacts made by Uffe Gjøl Sørensen the year before. So – thanks to Uffe!
The Corbett-concept had one target: Finding Tiger! I had been in Corbett before (1986) – and also been through Ranthambhore and Chitwan, but always failed to see the world’s most superb animal. So through Vikram Singh (Wild World India) we had made a purposeful plan for this. We had one day in the foothills around Nainital (Rufous-bellied Woodpecker, Black-throated Accentor) just to breathe the atmosphere before entering Corbett.
Result: An incredible 7 Tigers on 4 observations and in paradise itself = Corbett. Mahender Singh was the master-guide, the Mahawat Farouck responsible for our first Tiger seen a few meters away from elephant back. Collateral birding produced Hodgson´s Bush-Chat and many well-known Corbett-species.
Itinerary
3 January
An interesting and most unexpected prologue to the trip occurred on the way from half a days’ work in Koege to Copenhagen. Denmark’s first Bimaculated Lark roosting at the shores of Stauning´s Island just north of Koege. Rushed out to fellow twitchers just in time to see the lark. One hour later in the taxi for the airport with Jette, told her about this good omen for the trip. Actually, we did not see Bimaculated Larks in Gujarat! Evening in London, night in the air heading for Bombay.
4 January
Arrival Bombay 12.00, later domestic flight to Ahmedabad. Revisited 34.5 years after! Picked up by Laxman – creating our Gujarat team of 3. Laxman drove off taking us into the chaos of traffic, dense population and pollution. We drove for Utelia arriving after dark. Suddenly here in the silence of the village, knocking on the gate of the old Utelia Castle, a bit damaged by the 2001-earthquake but still towering over the small village. Here we spent the night.
5 January
Utelia 8.00-10.00. Walked through the village to surrounding fields and riverine scrub. Large flocks of Short-toed Larks, 450 Roseate Starlings, and Sykes’ Warbler. Drive to Lothal (10.30), visiting the excavations of the 4500-year-old Harappan culture. The only Indian (lesser) Spotted Eagle found here close to the dirt road, some birds too in the scrubs including (Eastern) Orphean Warbler and another – Sykes.
Drove on heading for Velavadar with stops, esp. at a river creek with a lot of waterbirds and Greater Spotted Eagle. Generally the surrounding farmlands were industrial crops including a lot of cotton – the impact of this, including large-scale use of pesticides on birdlife was obvious. The huge flocks of birds we remembered from our early trips to India were gone. Black-winged Kites seemed to survive, but vultures were gone. Black Kites were few and only in towns.
Velavadar 14.30-18.15. A remnant of the vast grasslands of Gujarat. No overnight stay so we had limited time in this great habitat with flocks of Blackbucks scattered all over. Clouds of Short-toed Larks, some Rufous-tailed Larks and 2+2 of the endemic Sykes’ Crested Lark. Also 2 Long-billed Pipits. At least 700 Common Cranes esp. in the buffer-zone around the reserve and one beautiful Demoiselle Crane standing with 5 Black Storks. Time revealed this bird to be the only Demoiselle of the trip – not so easy to see in mid-winter in Gujarat. At dusk the famous movement of Harriers began. They swept in from all directions, passing by and settled in groups on roads and in the grass. We counted 340 birds – old male-ratio gave an estimate of Montague´s Harrier 220 and Pallid Harrier 120. A very spectacular sight! No doubt additional times can be well spent here – notabilities as Laggar Falcon and Lesser Florican are possible here, the latter requires a very good luck out of breeding season – a flock of wolves still survive. After dark Laxman took us to Palitana. Stayed at Hotel Sumero, basic but ok!
6 January
Palitana – Day of our “pilgrimage” to Shatrunjaya Hills 6.30-12.15 visiting the Jain temple-complex at the top. 3500 steps take you to the top – we made it in 1 hour, 10 min. Laxman preferred to stay at the bottom. It is a unique experience to join the pilgrims, the atmosphere very spiritual and very friendly. In addition hillside birding on the descent was quite good – i.e. a surprise – Sulphur-bellied Warbler and Rock Bush-Quail. In the meantime Jette got instructions of how to become a holy Jain woman. Anyway – we both decided to head on – a long drive for Gir. Still – where have all the birds gone? Sarus? The thousands of doves and starlings? Interestingly enough Black Ibis seems to be rather resistant to this environmental disaster. 7 birds. Arrived at Gir Birding Lodge at Sasan Gir (pre-booked). Services and arrangements were splendid, but the place lacked some atmosphere and it was the only place where our driver and friend Laxman did not have a good time.
7 January + 8 January
Gir Forest – a target-locality not reached in 1971 but this time we made it. The habitat is open dry woodland in the hills. This means quite a low diversity of birds but some specialities. And the potential two big cats!
We made game drives morning and afternoon/evening at both days. Guide and driver is compulsory. Also we were accompanied by Ganesh from the lodge, a Nepalese nature-guide working here because of the situation in Nepal. A very able man, despite only a short time in Gir. No doubt this is the place of the last Asiatic Lions. Classic male roars heard several times – a familiar sound from Africa. Lots of prints. But we never saw them – Lions are much more easy to watch on open African savannahs than in this more closed environment. One evening we caught up with a Leopard. A glorious big male, leisurely walking and roosting on the forest-floor, could be watched in 50 minutes before retreating. Leopard! Spots…
Birds: A good selection of raptors – first gyps as 4 Long-billed Vultures soared over hilltops. Also Short-toed, Tawny, Bonelli’s and Booted Eagles and White-eyed Buzzards. Dry habitat birds like Yellow-footed Pigeon, Marshall’s Iora and Thick-billed Flowerpecker. But the prize goes to Painted Sandgrouse seen 3 times as pairs on almost un-vegetated hills, very discreet and cryptic in pastel colours, but once found, allowed extremely close observations.
9 January
Drove off early morning from Gir heading for Kutch. Passed a lake NE of Gir with some waterbirds including Great Thick-Knee. It was a long and tough day on the Indian roads, Laxman had a hard time. In the afternoon we passed the bridge crossing the Greater Rann of Kutch, a huge tidal area with lagoons, sandbars etc. Only briefly birded as we expected more time at the return. Darkness came at Bhuj. We headed on eventually meeting Jugal Tiwari in the village Mota-Virani and were installed at Jugal’s place (Center of Desert and Ocean) just outside the village – staying here the next three nights. Facilities were fine to our needs, whether staying in the room or in the tents. Splendid Gujarati food! It was a very good experience to meet Jugal, his wife and son. Jugal is a vary competent person, scientifically trained, and extremely committed to the nature and wildlife of Kutch and has a hard job standing against the major threats to this unique habitat, especially the charcoal industry.
10 January
A 10 km drive before dawn took us to Fulay – a small traditional village – and the huge Bani Grasslands. We were at the traditional Hypocolius-roost, but the place had recently been seriously disturbed so nerves were on the edge! The early yellowish light seeped in on the plains. Dark spots scattered in the few acacias took the forms of Steppe Eagles as the light progressed, flocks of Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse rushed over.
At the roost nothing happened – bulbuls only. At 8.00 we were sure that the roost had moved! At last a single male Hypocolius popped up to its position in the top of an acacia. A legend of the deserts – and taxonomy! Great relief! A single Cream-coloured Courser found by Jette. The grassland – endless flats, numerous rodents and the predators: Steppe Eagles and some Long-legged Buzzards. We stayed some hours in Fulay – they had beautiful carpets for sale. Returned to the camp at 12.00.
In the afternoon a long walk in the hills behind Mota-Virani birding with Jugal. Marshalls Iora, Spotted Owlet and good numbers of Wheatears (Desert and Variable). But the main target was Jugal’s bird – the endemic and endangered White-naped Tit. At last a small mixed flock were located dominated by Small Minivet. And the tits! 2 nice White-naped Tits that could be followed the next ½ hour moving restlessly between groups of acacias controlling the pods for infestations with larvae.
11 January
Jugal had received a new guest – a wealthy man from Bombay. He wants to see the GIB! (Great Indian Bustard). So based a trip to the Lala area about 100 km from the camp, arriving at about 8.30. It is a huge area of dried up grassland, the bustards can be quite difficult (Jugal drew a blank on his last trip), so we had to work hard. Indian Coursers were common here – about 30 birds readily seen. No bustards. At last I saw some birds flying away in the distant haze, barely visible, but just compatible with GIB. The man from Bombay believed that it had been a hallucination but Jugal decided to drive after the sight. 5 km off-road and later we located 5 male Great Indian Bustards, approached and observed the next ½ hours before the flock vanished into a small stand of acacias. Mission completed! From one endangered species to the next:
Stoliczka´s Bush-Chat found on the traditional spot along the gravel road to the watchtower of the Lala reserve. A female + a male, the latter giving “sub-puff-and-rolls” when disturbed, fine observations of this terrestrial Bush-chat. At about 12.00 we left Lala heading for the seacoast at Pingleshwar, having lunch at the small Wat and enjoying empty sandy beaches as far as we could see. Dolphins, Great Thick-Knee, Osprey. Later crossing cranefields (ab. 800 Common Cranes) ending at Poldaria about 16.00-17.30, an isolated farm in empty barren hill-country. We had a stop at a small stream which attracted birds in the otherwise dry country. It paid off! Grey-necked Bunting – 3, esp. a close nice male, the third “Ortolan”. The farm is a rehabilitation centre or hospice for ill or traumatized cattle, with a religious background. The carcasses are dumped on nearby hills creating one of the best places for vultures left with up to 400. In late evening we saw 145 vultures – White-backed Vultures and Eurasian Griffons (about 4:1) in competition with the all too numerous stray-dogs haunting India in the “post-vulture” era. Another good sighting was a flock of 6 Yellow-wattled Lapwings. Late return to the camp with Indian Nightjar and Barred Button-quail in the dusk.
In the evening 3 men from the village played traditional hymns – a small fire is on. January-nights are cold on the plains.
12 January
Nice morning-walk with Jugal before leaving at about 10.00. At Bhuj a single White-backed Vulture. Crossed back over the bridge of Greater Rann. Indian Sandlark, many Slender-billed Gulls, a single Mongolian Plover among common waders, flamingos, and western reef egrets. Zainabad reached at 15.00 - marked by 140 Roseate Starlings. Staying at Desert Camp (Dhanraj Malik). Malik’s place is an ornithologists paradise. Relaxed, nice, outstanding food! Birds and Khur at the campsite. The Maliks are local rulers – but also very dedicated birders and extremely helpful to assist your ornithological wishes!
13 January
Little Rann of Kutch 8.30-13.00 – long trip with D Malik. Rann means “the place where nothing grows”. Driving out on the vast empty pans leaves a most complete silence. Only the numerous castings of flamingo-feet in the dried up clay show that here were water during the monsoon. Vegetation is around the “islands” and around here is wildlife: Flocks of Khur – the wild ass – still survive here in good numbers. 2 Eastern Houbaras were located, a wintering and now rare species, it was a male and a female/immature male. Nearby Hoopoe-Larks and Desert Warbler! Crossing back we met camel-nomads (Jodh-people from Sind) and passed old villages with old gates and remnants of harbours from the time when the Rann was still passable by boat! Afternoon relaxed in the campsite. Booted Warbler, Orphean Warbler, Wryneck, Roseate Starling.
Dhanraj Malik expected a British bird group to come – they wanted only one bird: Sykes’ Nightjar. So we headed for Malik’s nightjar-fields to be absolutely sure that the species was available! At dusk some 300 Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse, then starting the exiting nightjar-scan on ploughed, unvegetated fields. Moon was clear, making it a bit difficult to locate and later fixate the birds in the spotlight. With progressing darkness we managed to find about 15 nightjars. 2 were caught and in the hand could be safely identified as a Sykes’ Nightjar male + female. Probably all these birds were Sykes’ - another 5 could be identified. Only 1 Indian Nightjar was seen – on the tarmac road when we returned. Yellow-wattled Lapwing and Short-eared Owl also seen scanning fields in the dark
14 January
Pronounced our day of wetlands of Zainabad. The Maliks had a family-day so we left the 3 of us + 2 of Malik’s people in the morning to bird lakes around Patdi. 3 lakes very close, 3 different habitats: The first a typical flamingo-flat and the 2500 Lesser Flamingos was like being in Rift Valley! 300 juveniles – so some breeding success. The next lake a deep, fish-rich lake – White Pelican 190 and Dalmatian Pelican 5.The third lake is close to the village Himmatbura, the lake inaccessible (loaded with ducks) but the broad surrounding ring-channel is very good: Among more common waterbirds we eventually found Sarus Crane - 2 adult with 1 young, and a Great Bittern standing in the edge of reeds at close range, later flying into better cover. The Bittern is a rare bird here – in fact a new record to Zainabad according to the Maliks! Detail of this bird given in the species list
Afternoon relaxed in the camp including a surprise Rufous-tailed Scrub-Robin – a bird expected to be in Africa at this time of the year. Left late afternoon reaching the Hotel Host Inn in Ahmedabad after dark. At the very moment we parked here Laxman had his first and only puncture on the trip! It was time to split the Gujarat team, Laxman had made a fantastic job and we had to say goodbye with some sadness. Laxman went home for Udaipur, Jette and I were ready for Delhi the next morning.
15 January
All day travelling – morning flight Ahmedabad-Delhi, arr. 10.00. This last extension of the trip was planned in much detail through Vikram Singh of Wild World India. Vikram knew that we were birders but had one dominant target: Finding Tiger in Corbett. We were met in the airport and drove north heading for the foothills. Got stuck in Haldwani (we did the same in 1971!) but eventually reached Nainital after dark.
16 January
One day in the foothills spent in the good forest around Killbury Road and Pangot, 7.00-18.30. Probably we arrived an hour too late for the optimal chance to see pheasants, but we had a nostalgic day in the foothills. It was a cold and cloudy day, too misty for distant snow-views and not the best for raptors, but many fine observations during the day. Got 2 fine woodpeckers, Himalayan and esp. the beautiful Rufous-bellied Woodpecker, some phylloscopus, Orange-flanked Bluetail, Rufous-naped Tit, Pink-browed Rose-finch but the best were the accentors – Black-throated Accentor (in company with Rufous-breasted Accentor) at the edge of a small terraced field. Celebrated with chapati, egg-curry and tea at a small place nearby.
17 January
Passed the gate of Corbett at about 10.00. Tiger fever relapsed – 20 years after my first visit to Corbett. The chance was in our hands – that is esp. our guide Mahendra – a shy man of the forests, but very competent! Slow drive with stops at the Ramganga river. Gharial crocodile, Black and Black-necked Storks, Pallas’ Fish-Eagle and a flock of elephants on the Dhikala grassland. Mahendra proposed that we should try on elephant in the evening – there had been a tiger sighting in the grassland early morning. So we left with Farouk – our Mahawat – not for the grassland but into deep forest following alarm-calls of Chital. Eventually Farouk succeeded in locating the Tiger and our first Tiger was a big male within 2 meters from the elephant, angry and roaring being disturbed in its own territory. Went back to Dhikala – exhausted and happy!
18 January
Corbett NP, jeep with Mahender Negi all day ending at dusk at the watchtower of Dhikala. This was the day where Mahendra showed his capacity! During the day an incredible 6 tigers were seen. Early morning, a female + 2 1-year young close to Dhikala. In the middle of the day a male and a female tiger along the road close to Sarabduli. In the evening a female scoped from the watchtower on the grass-plains. A gallery of birds through the day – esp. Hodgson’s Bush-Chat 3 males, 2 females at the far end of the Dhikala grassland (preferred long grass, but not elephant grass!).
19 January
Corbett NP half day, 6.30-15.00. Additional birding, Brown Fish-Owl but no Tawny. Drive to Delhi in the afternoon. Met with Vikram and his colleague Gaurav in the evening having dinner and Kingfishers, after 16 days non-alcoholic they certainly had an effect! Vikram combines business with adventure. They had heard about the record of 7 tigers within 24 hours, so they certainly organised this part of our trip to perfection!
20 January
Morning flight out of India for Europe. We had observed 224 species of birds in Gujarat – not too bad. After Corbett and Nainital the count raised to 315 after these few days in the north.
Tawang Trek (October – November, 2005)
Domi & Pierra (France)
Take the map by the top right corner, follow the narrow corridor between Nepal and Bhutan, turn right after Bangladesh, see the little appendix heading towards China and Myanmar, here you are! This is the "forgotten land", Arunachal Pradesh where sun rises at 5 in the mornings and bathes at 5 in the afternoon in an ocean of clouds before leaving for night, where people feel so intensely Indian after the Chinese aggression of 1962 and looks so intensely Chinese!
Culture, people, nature, everything there is absolutely intact to the point that children are genuinely scared when looking at our pale faces and blond hair. It takes time to win over this fear. The scenery is breath taking, people are warm, friendly, curious, amused at observing our exotic behaviour and attire, generous at sharing with us their tea plus salted yak butter (extremely appropriate to the climate and the needs of the local people, kind of immediate tommy repellant for western stomach).
We have been trekking about 6 to 8 hours a day at an average altitude of 3000/3800 mt, at very acceptable temperatures at daytime, a bit say chilly at night, our tent usually showing a thin lay of frost in the morning. We had the best cook of Arunachal Pradesh which doesn't mean he was good but he kept us alive. We got 3 young guides, all from the local tribes and as a result able to translate for us conversation with the villagers, but none of them being professional in any way. One of them lost his way 3 times which was OK since Piera and myself were following another one on the right track but it is quite backward to have to look after your own guide so that he doesn't get lost! They were the sweetest gentle young lads, looking penitent but laughing at all their mistakes. We tried to buy things from people having no sense of money exchange and who are still bartering yak milk for salt or maize for tea from a village to the other.
We provoked great laughing by pitching tents when they believe in solid bamboo houses. They sang and danced for us in the evenings when they came to our camp and asked in return for me to sing French songs which I did and surprisingly the sky didn't fell in pieces. They gave us wine, tea, good times and sometime even fleas which they call jumping monsters and which we got rid of only at the end of the trek. They had so many questions and so did we and I don't know who felt the most curious. They are far away in space and time from our present but they are now very close to me in memories.
These tribes we met were all Monpas and we saw so many Mr. and Mrs. Monpa with their colourful and elegant costume, their yak hair caps shaped in the fashion of the old English judges wigs, laughing loudly when on their way, passing by our tents, they saw our shaggy heads appearing in the early light out of the tent's zip.
We met the great Rinpoche in Tawang. He arrived and left at same time as we did and followed the same route. We happened to appear as the last jeep of his escort and were saluted with devotion as another pair of unpredictable lamas, along the road where villagers were burning cypress branches, holding huge embroidered flags and flowers.
We also cruised along the Brahmaputra river on a dull ship whose engine expired when we embarked, was repaired, and whose decayed old wooden hull was leaking and had to be bailed out permanently by a small fellow hidden in a vast towel. We spent 2 days and nights in a Vaishnavite monastery in Majuli Islands, being shepherded by a monk of the name of Dullal who offered to us hospitality, a samosha and some buffalo dahi and to whom I offered in return my old beloved blue shawl who had been with me for all previous trips to India and more specifically for all treks. We also wandered for half a day in the Mising village where we created the effect of a hurricane in the very peaceful, sort of beginnings of the world scenery. We saw monastic dances at night performed by young monks whose graceful beauty and made up faces, mesmerizing young village women, left us with a very ambiguous, disturbing, stunning emotion at the flickering feeble candle light. The very scarce audience was made of few of monks cuddling on their lap the child they were in charge of.
We finished in Kolkata the cheerful, gay, cultured, vibrant city were we again went over the flower market for hours amongst the crowd, trying to avoid these two legs huge bundles running on their own, and spent a Sunday afternoon in a big public garden where families were having picnics below the posters forbidding any food and beverages within the garden, all women in their most beautiful attires and everybody coming to speak with us.
We were pampered beyond any expectation by friends in Kolkatta and Delhi. We met, in Delhi, Tarun Tejpal, a generous, charming, simple and warm person who happens to be the outstanding author of one the best books of the last two decades.
We will be back next year, here or there, in an other corner of the map, visiting places which are still not on the maps.
Pictures: Vikram Singh
Copyright Wild World India 2006
Take the map by the top right corner, follow the narrow corridor between Nepal and Bhutan, turn right after Bangladesh, see the little appendix heading towards China and Myanmar, here you are! This is the "forgotten land", Arunachal Pradesh where sun rises at 5 in the mornings and bathes at 5 in the afternoon in an ocean of clouds before leaving for night, where people feel so intensely Indian after the Chinese aggression of 1962 and looks so intensely Chinese!
Culture, people, nature, everything there is absolutely intact to the point that children are genuinely scared when looking at our pale faces and blond hair. It takes time to win over this fear. The scenery is breath taking, people are warm, friendly, curious, amused at observing our exotic behaviour and attire, generous at sharing with us their tea plus salted yak butter (extremely appropriate to the climate and the needs of the local people, kind of immediate tommy repellant for western stomach).
We have been trekking about 6 to 8 hours a day at an average altitude of 3000/3800 mt, at very acceptable temperatures at daytime, a bit say chilly at night, our tent usually showing a thin lay of frost in the morning. We had the best cook of Arunachal Pradesh which doesn't mean he was good but he kept us alive. We got 3 young guides, all from the local tribes and as a result able to translate for us conversation with the villagers, but none of them being professional in any way. One of them lost his way 3 times which was OK since Piera and myself were following another one on the right track but it is quite backward to have to look after your own guide so that he doesn't get lost! They were the sweetest gentle young lads, looking penitent but laughing at all their mistakes. We tried to buy things from people having no sense of money exchange and who are still bartering yak milk for salt or maize for tea from a village to the other.
We provoked great laughing by pitching tents when they believe in solid bamboo houses. They sang and danced for us in the evenings when they came to our camp and asked in return for me to sing French songs which I did and surprisingly the sky didn't fell in pieces. They gave us wine, tea, good times and sometime even fleas which they call jumping monsters and which we got rid of only at the end of the trek. They had so many questions and so did we and I don't know who felt the most curious. They are far away in space and time from our present but they are now very close to me in memories.
These tribes we met were all Monpas and we saw so many Mr. and Mrs. Monpa with their colourful and elegant costume, their yak hair caps shaped in the fashion of the old English judges wigs, laughing loudly when on their way, passing by our tents, they saw our shaggy heads appearing in the early light out of the tent's zip.
We met the great Rinpoche in Tawang. He arrived and left at same time as we did and followed the same route. We happened to appear as the last jeep of his escort and were saluted with devotion as another pair of unpredictable lamas, along the road where villagers were burning cypress branches, holding huge embroidered flags and flowers.
We also cruised along the Brahmaputra river on a dull ship whose engine expired when we embarked, was repaired, and whose decayed old wooden hull was leaking and had to be bailed out permanently by a small fellow hidden in a vast towel. We spent 2 days and nights in a Vaishnavite monastery in Majuli Islands, being shepherded by a monk of the name of Dullal who offered to us hospitality, a samosha and some buffalo dahi and to whom I offered in return my old beloved blue shawl who had been with me for all previous trips to India and more specifically for all treks. We also wandered for half a day in the Mising village where we created the effect of a hurricane in the very peaceful, sort of beginnings of the world scenery. We saw monastic dances at night performed by young monks whose graceful beauty and made up faces, mesmerizing young village women, left us with a very ambiguous, disturbing, stunning emotion at the flickering feeble candle light. The very scarce audience was made of few of monks cuddling on their lap the child they were in charge of.
We finished in Kolkata the cheerful, gay, cultured, vibrant city were we again went over the flower market for hours amongst the crowd, trying to avoid these two legs huge bundles running on their own, and spent a Sunday afternoon in a big public garden where families were having picnics below the posters forbidding any food and beverages within the garden, all women in their most beautiful attires and everybody coming to speak with us.
We were pampered beyond any expectation by friends in Kolkatta and Delhi. We met, in Delhi, Tarun Tejpal, a generous, charming, simple and warm person who happens to be the outstanding author of one the best books of the last two decades.
We will be back next year, here or there, in an other corner of the map, visiting places which are still not on the maps.
Pictures: Vikram Singh
Copyright Wild World India 2006
North India Birding Tour (December 2004)
Chris & Jacky Mills
DAY ONE: 19th December 2004
Delhi - en route to Corbett NP 1330 - 1900
We arrived at Delhi airport at around 1:00pm, we were collected by Sumantha Ghosh of Wild World India and a driver. We undertook the colourful but rather arduous drive to Corbett NP - stopping off a couple of times the journey took around 6 hours. The first roadside birds we noted were HOOPOE, 10+BLACK-SHOULDERED KITE, 10+WHITE-BREASTED KINGFISHER, 20+ ROSE-RINGED PARAKEEET, 6 EGYPTIAN VULTURE, GREAT EGRET, 100'S CATTLE EGRET, 30+ BLACK DRONGO, 10+ PIED STARLING, 100'S BLACK KITES, 5+ LONG-TAILED SHRIKE, 6 EGYPTIAN VULTURE, INDIAN HOUSE CROW, BANK & COMMON MYNA.
We arrived at Camp Forktail around 6:30PM had an evening curry, bottle of beer and sat around the campfire listening to the alarm calls of Sambar; Spotted Deer. Deprived of sleep for the last 20 hours and starting to feel the pinch, we were tucked up in our tent by 930PM.
Overnight at Camp Forktail
DAY TWO: 20th December 2004
Camp Forktail 0730 – 1000, Bhakrakot 1000 – 1300, Woodland east of campsite 1500 - 1730
The next morning we awoke around 6:45 as it was getting light, and we had an hours birding in the camp prior to breakfast. The first birds just outside the tent were a small group of BLACK-CHINNED BABBLERS, moments later we were gasping at a superb HIMALAYAN RUBYTHROAT it was sat motionless in a torpid state no doubt an affect of the cold dawn air. A full circuit of the campsite produced yet more excitement, the pick of birds being; 1 WHITE-THROATED FANTAIL, 3 LINEATED BARBET, 2 BLUE-THROATED BARBET, 10 SCARLET MINIVET, 1 BAR-WINGED FLYCATCHER SHRIKE & 2 GIANT HORNBILLS. The commonest birds around the campsite were clearly the HIMALAYAN BULBUL, ORIENTAL WHITEYE & ASHY PRINIA with groups of seen in most of the areas.
Breakfast was shared with the resident GREY BUSHCHAT & JUNGLE BABBLERS, these hopped in and around the eating area.
After breakfast we decided to head north of the campsite, we walked up a path which passes through fields and the small village of Bhakrakhoot just beyond the village to the left the village fields border the edge of some secondary forest. The fields and village produced PALE MARTIN, 2 LONG-BILLED PIPIT, 10 GREY TREEPIE, ORIENTAL TRUTLE DOVE, 5+ LONG-TAILED SHRIKE, BLACK-CRESTED BULBUL 4+, CRESTED TREE SWIFT, RED-HEADED VULTURE, 6 YELLOW-BREASTED GREENFINCH. The woodland edge treated us some different species, 1 BLACK-LORED TIT, 2 GREY CAPPED PYGMY WOODPECKER, 2 LEMON RUMPED WARBELRS, 2 GREY HOODED WARBLERS, YELLOW-BELLIED FANTAIL,1 FULVOUS BREASTED WOODPECKER, 2 VELVET-FRONTED NUTHATCH, 1M SLATY BLUE FLYCATCHER, & 1 COMMON IORA.
We headed back for lunch around 1.30PM. After a lazy lunch, Kunwar our guide suggested we bird the woodland to the east of the campsite an area he was very familiar with. The woodland here is on a steep hillside that eventually leads down to a stream that eventually meets the road. Several new species were added including a couple of "must see" species; 2+WHITE-CRESTED LAUGHING THRUSH, 2 ASHY BULBUL, 3 GOLDEN SPECTACLED WARBLER, 1 KALIJ PHEASANT, 2 SPOTTED FORKTAIL, SEV BLUE WHISTLING THRUSH, and after many minutes of waiting 1 CHESTNUT-HEADED TESIA
Overnight at Camp Forktail
DAY THREE: 21st December 2004
Camp Forktail 0730 – 1000, Bhakrakhot & Forest to North 1000 – 1300, Woodland east of campsite 1500 - 1730
We had decided to take things easy in the first couple of days and to that effect we spent the morning birding similar areas to yesterday morning - but continued to add new species to the list.
Many of the species from yesterday were seen again - but additional species today were STREAK-THROATED WOODPECKER, SCALY BELLIED WOODPECKER, GREATER YELLOWNAPE, BLACK-WINGED CUCKOO SHRIKE,& ASIAN BARRED OWLET.
After a "brunch" we headed up North of the campsite again, but this time continued past the village, following the footpath we eventually reached a good area of secondary forest, with a fast running stream down a wooded hillside to our right.
This area yielded pulses of birds in tight feeding flocks, birds such as 5 GREY HOODED WARBLER, 1 STREAKED LAUGHING THRUSH, 2 BLUE WINGED MINLA, 20 GREY HEADED CANARY FLYCATCHER, 3 TICKELLS WARBLER, 1 RUSTY-CHEEKED SCIMITAR BABBLER, 3 CHESTNUT-BELLIED NUTHATCH, 2 WHITE-TAILED NUTHATCH, 3 VELVET-FRONTED NUTHATCH, 1 RUFOUS BELLIED EAGLE, 1 GREAT BARBET, 2 WHISKERED YUHINA, 2 SPOTTED FORKTAIL, 2 HUMES WARBLER, 1 RED-BILLED BLUE MAGPIE,& 20+ LEMON-RUMPED WARBLER.
We returned to camp had a late afternoon cup of tea, and walked the area east of the camp again, adding new species such as HIMALAYAN FLAMEBACK & RUFOUS-GORGETED FLYCATCHER. Kunwar showed us Leopard scats, and we found leaves still holding the animals urine from where the animal had been territory scent-marking. Following the tracks, we found an area of ground that had been disturbed, and lots of deer hair - Kunwar explained that this was clearly a kill from the previous evening.
Overnight at Camp Forktail
DAY FOUR: 22nd December 2004
Forktail - Kosi River 0700 – 1200, Machore Mountain road 1230 - 1600
The day started with some early excitement, Ghosh from Wild World India whom organised our trip had arrived just before light and as he approached the camp he had seen a wild Indian Elephant. Breakfast was temporarily abandoned as we searched the area.
Unfortunately despite hearing the movements of the elephant we were unable to see it - incredibly! We did add couple more birds to the list in the form of BLACK-HEADED ORIOLE & MAROON ORIOLE.
After breakfast we headed out in a Suzuki jeep with Ghosh our host and Kunwar our guide. Our first stop was the Kosi River area which produced 5 WHITE-CAPPED WATER REDSTART, 12 PLUMBEOUS WATER REDSTART, 1PR at NEST BROWN DIPPER, SPOTTED FORKTAIL, 2 WHITE-BROWED WAGTAIL, 1 RIVER LAPWING, 1 ROOSTING BROWN FISH OWL, 1PR at NEST PALLAS'S FISH EAGLE, 80 SLATY-HEADED PARAKEET, 1 GOLDEN LEAFBIRD, 20 SCARLET MINIVET, 10 COMMON WOODSHRIKE.
We continued our journey up into the mountains via the Machore mountain road, it was noticeable even since our last visit 3 years ago how few Vultures were present, but we did see 2 HIMLAYAN GRIFFON VULTURES & 13 EURASIAN GRIFFON VULTURES.
The views along this road towards the top are breathtaking, and the distant backdrop of the snow-capped Himalayas offers a fantastic perspective. We made several stops, the weather was cloudy and cool and this hampered our search for some of the altitude species such as accentors. However, we had a pleasant mix of birds including 1 LITTLE SWIFT, 2 RED-BILLED BLUE MAGPIE, 1 STEPPE EAGLE, 2 RUFOUS-BELLIED EAGLE, 6 COMMON ROSEFINCH, 1 JUNGLE OWLET, 1 ASHY DRONGO,4 BLUE-CAPPED REDSTART AND 2 BLUE BREASTED QUAIL.
Overnight at Camp Forktail
DAY FIVE: 23rd December 2004
Corbett NP Bijrani Gate 0700 - 1600
The next morning we breakfasted early and were heading through the Corbett National Park gates at 7am, our efforts today were mainly from the jeep in the Bijrani area.
There are rest areas in the park and here you can get out and wander to bird. Everyone's senses were heightened knowing this was our first really good chance of seeing TIGER, our previous visit to India, taking in Ranthambhore and Corbett had only resulted in near misses and lots of pugmarks.
The first birds were en-route to and at the main rest area just inside the park, best birds here were, 5 FULVOUS-BREASTED WOODPECKER, 2 LESSER YELLOWNAPE, 4 HIMLAYAN FLAMEBACK, 10+BLACK-RUMPED FLAMEBACK, 3 COPPERSMITH BARBET, 1 CRESTED KINGFISHER, 1 ALEXANDRINE PARAKEET,1 ASIAN BARRED OWLET, 3 JUNGLE OWLET, 1 CRESTED SERPENT EAGLE, 1 CHANGEABLE HAWK EAGLE, 2 GOLDEN FRONTED LEAFBIRD it was a cold morning and a torpid WRYNECK, allowed me to approach it down to 2.0m.
As we continued through the park several times we tracked fresh tiger pug marks, but still failed to see any tigers! The bird list continued with the pick of birds being 1 BAY-BACKED SHRIKE, 20+ BLACK-HEADED ORIOLE, 3 LESSER RACKET TAILED DRONGO, 1 SLATY BLUE FLYCATCHER, 5+ CHESTNUT BELLIED NUTCHATCH, 2 WHITE-TAILED NUTHATCH, 12+ VELVET FRONTED NUTHATCH, 2 OLIVE-BACKED PIPIT, 2 WHISKERED YUHINA, 1 WHITES THRUSH, 1 GREY FRANCOLIN (heard only) plus many of the commoner species.
Our mammal list got well under way with 30+ HANUMAN LANGUR, 50+ RHESUS MACAQUE, 4 WILD BOAR, 20+ MUNTJAC, 8+ SAMBAR DEER, 2+ PALM SQUIRREL, 50+ CHITAL and at least 4 different sets of tiger pugmarks - but no tiger.
Overnight at Camp Forktail
DAY SIX: 24th December 2004
Camp Forktail 0700 – 0900, Vanghat River Lodge 1000-1700
The short walk from the tent to the dining area produced close views of BLACK FRANCOLIN, and rather more impressive were a stunning RUFOUS BELLIED NILTAVA & 2 RUFOUS ORGETED FLYCATCHER.
After breakfast we were dropped off from the jeep and we then walked a 3 mile descent to our destination for this afternoon and evening at Bhanghat fishing Lodge. This lodge is owned by Ghosh of WildWorld India, it hosts a wonderful small stone cottage in the most fantastic setting of forested mountains and the fast running Ramganga river. The birding was just as good, 5 PLUM-HEADED PARAKEET, 1 LARGE TAILED NIGHTJAR, 1 RIVER LAPWING, 1 PALLAS'S FISH EAGLE, 2 ORIENTAL HONEY BUZZARD, 1 BLACK STORK, 2 GREEN MAGPIE, 2 WHITE BELLIED DRONGO, 1 BROWN DIPPER, 1 BLACK REDSTART, 6+ WHITE-CAPPED WATER REDSTART, 5+ PLUMBEOUS WATER REDSTART, 1 SPOTTED FORKTAIL, 2 CHESTNUT-BELLIED NUTHATCH, 4 VELVET FRONTED NUTHATCH, & 1 WALLCREEPER.
The river is famous for Mahseer, and Mahseer angling, encouraged by Ghosh to have a go I tried my luck for a few hours, but despite being able to see a shoal containing some huge fish in the lovely clear water - my luck was out. However, I was accompanied on the rocks just 20m away by a LITTLE FORKTAIL, the first of the trip.
As we walked out of the valley in the early afternoon we had 80 SLATY HEADED PARAKEET, 1 EMERALD DOVE, 1 EURASIAN GRIFFON VULTURE, 2 BLACK STORK, 4 NEPAL HOUSE MARTIN, 1 WHITE THROATED FANTAIL.
During the rest of the afternoon we explored 3 ravines just off the road that leads to Camp Forktail, all of these areas held reasonable numbers of birds and are well worth exploring, these areas produced 1 GREATER FLAMEBACK, 3 LESSER YELLOWNAPE, 4 HIMALAYAN FLAMEBACK, 1 SHIKRA, 2 GREEN MAGPIE, 2 GREY HEADED CANARY FLYCATCHER, RED-BILLED LEIOTHRIX, 2 MARRON ORIOLE, 1 YELLOW BREASTED FANTAIL, 5 BLUE-WINGED MINLA & 2 GREAT HORNBILL these being at the entrance to Camp Forktail.
Overnight at Vanghat River Lodge
DAY SEVEN: 26th December 2004
Lohachaur 0800 – 1530, Camp Forktail 1530- 1700
Today we set off for Lohachaur a buffer zone of the Corbett NP, this enabled us to bird on foot in primary forest, best birds were 1 RED JUNGLEFOWL, 4 KALIJ PHEASANT, 1 LESSER YELLOWNAPE, 1 GREATER YELLOWNAPE, 1 HIMALAYAN FLAMEBACK, 5 GREEN MAGPIE, 3 LONG TAILED MINIVET, 20+ SCARLET MINIVET, 8 BAR-WINGED FLYCATCHER SHRIKE, 3 YELLOW BELLIED FANTAIL, 2 WHITE BROWED FANTAIL, 5+ ASHY DRONGO, 15 BRONZED DRONGO, 2 RUFOUS GORGETED FLYCATCHER, 2 TAIGA FLYCATCHER, 3 RUFOUS BELLIED NILTAVA, 1 WHITE RUMPED SHAMA, 10 CHESTNUT BELLIED NUTHATCH, 2 WHITE TAILED NUTHATCH, 3+ VELVET FRONTED NUTHATCH, 5+ ASHY BULBUL, 10+ LEMON RUMPED WARBLER, 20 WHITE CRESTED LAUGHING THRUSH, 2 PUFF THROATED BABBLER, 1 MRS. GOULDS SUNBIRD, 4+ MAROON ORIOLE.
The track eventually reaches the Ramganga river and provides excellent panoramic views over the forest hills and resulted in additional species, overhead we noted 80 CRESTED TREE SWIFT, 10 ASIAN PALM SWIFT, 30 NEPAL HOUSE MARTIN, 10 EURASIAN GRIFFON VULTURE, 1 CRESTED SERPENT EAGLE, 1 ORIENTAL HONEY BUZZARD, 1 BONELLI'S EAGLE. The river added 2 CRESTED KINGFISHER, 2 RIVER LAPWING, 1 BLACK STORK, both species of WATER REDSTART, 1 LITTLE FORKTAIL.
We also had nice views of a small party of SMOOTH COATED OTTER, followed later by close up views of GOLDEN JACKAL, also the usual mix of CHITAL, SAMBAR, MUNTJAC, RHESUS MACAQUE & HANUMAN LANGUR.
The day ended with one more species for the trip being added, when a ROSE-BREASTED PARAKEET flew over the campsite.
Overnight at Camp Forktail
DAY EIGHT: 27th December 2004
Dhikala, Corbett NP 0630 - 1600
We left camp early this morning as we set off for Dhikala, an area in the innermost part of Corbett NP. We were to be based there for the next 4 days and had been told that this area had been extremely good for seeing Tiger - so hopes were running high.
We made several stops at appointed rest and viewing areas, the habitat was forest interspersed with boulder-strewn streams, and dried out riverbeds.
The pick of the birds during the morning were 3 BLUE THROATED BARBET, 2 COPPERSMITH BARBET, 4 CRESTED KINGFISHER,12 ALEXANDRINE PARAKEET, 2 JUNGLE OWLET, 1 LESSER FISH EAGLE, 1 PALLAS'S FISH EAGLE, 1 CINEREOUS VULTURE, 1 RED-HEADED VULTURE, 2 CRESTED SERPENT EAGLE, one of the most charismatic birds of the trip COLLARED FALCONET, & 1 PIED KINGFISHER that was lucky to survive the persistent dives and pursuit of a PEREGRINE, eventually submerging itself in the river to save itself.
The river and its banks also yielded MARSH CROCODILE (4-5M LONG) & a very large CATFISH.
As we headed into the forest areas stops produced 1 GREEN MAGPIE, 5 LONG TAILED MINIVET, 1 SLATY BACKED FLYCATCHER, 1 CHESTNUT HOODED TESIA, 20+ LEMON RUMPED WARBLER, 5 GREY HEADED WARBLER, 1 RED-WHISKERED BULBUL, 10 BLACK-CHINNED BABBLER, 3 BLUE WINGED MINLA, 1 WHITES THRUSH & the familiar mix of woodpeckers & nuthatches already seen.
As early afternoon approached, Kunwar & Ghosh led us to a 12m high watchtower that overlooked the river, the view was panoramic and the horizon distant. We settled down on top of the platform to enjoy our lunch, but before we had chance to take a second mouthful, Kunwar started a panic without even raising his binoculars he hissed " TIGER, TIGER crossing the river", there was 2 - a Tigress and a 9 month old cub. They were distant but through the scope we had terrific views, they crossed steadily the cub noticing our attentions, giving a couple of low calls - mother led the way seemingly unbothered by her cubs concerns. All the surrounding Chital & Sambar stood to attention. For 2-3 minutes we had watched them, it seemed it a lot longer then they were gone, disappearing into the vegetation.
After the excitement had died down and we had finished our lunch and Ghosh and Kunwar took us to an elephant station where they hoped we could take an elephant ride and catch up with the Tiger we had just seen. The elephant ride was an experience not to be missed, despite not relocating the tigers we had fantastic views of many of the river birds, the birds allowing much closer approach. The best birds were 1 STORK-BILLED KINGFISHER, 6 WHITE-BREASTED KINGFISHER, 4 CRESTED KINGFISHER, 2 PIED KINGFISHER, 6 RIVER LAPWING, 1 LITTLE HERON, 1 BLACK STORK,& 1 BLACK-NECKED STORK.
We were off the elephant and back in the jeep at around 4:30PM our next stop was Dhikala camp. But the day wasn't quite finished, as we crossed a dried river bed en-route, Kunwar glimpsed something in the late afternoon light - the driver quickly reversed, about 25m away stood a superb adult TIGRESS - she instinctively lowered herself tight to the ground, we drove up the hill and then cutting the engine rolled back down to see if she had moved - she had and we glimpsed her a couple of times in the vegetation- fantastic!!
We just made camp in time to avoid the late gate fine - but I would have happily have paid the fine.
Footnote: We returned to the dried riverbed the following night at the same time, and saw the same Tigress and briefly a male Tiger, but views were limited to "stripes and eyes in the vegetation".
Overnight at Dhikala
DAY NINE: 28th December 2004
Dhikala, Corbett NP 0730 - 1700
Breakfast was entertaining as from the restaurant window we watched 5 GOLDEN JACKALS playing, as 2 CHITAL kept a close eye. We then headed out in the jeep to the grassland areas that adjoining the Ramganga reservoir. The reservoir does not have a great reputation for wetland birds, but nevertheless with the surrounding grassland offers a very different habitat to the rest of the park, it is a vast area with many tracks - and we added several new species for the trip. Some of the birds on today's list were 5 INDIAN PEAFOWL, 5 BLACK FRANCOLIN, 3 GREAT EGRET, 2 INTERMEDIATE EGRET, 20+ LITTLE EGRET, 5+ GREY HERON, 30 RED-RUMPED SWALLOW, 1 BLUETHROAT, 3 HEN HARRIER, 2 WOOLLY NECKED STORK, TEAL, 1 GREENSHANK, 2 OSPREY, 30+ ZITTING CISTICOLA, 3 INDIAN POND HERON, 2 PALLAS'S FISH EAGLES, 5 RED WATTLED LAPWING, 2 CHANGEABLE HAWK EAGLE, 3 HOOPOE, 6 CINEREOUS VULTURE,2 LONG-BILLED VULTURE, 3 RED-HEADED VULTURE, 1 COLLARED FALCONET, 30 SLATY HEADED PARAKEET, 50+ CRESTED TREE SWIFT, 4 COMMON SNIPE, 1 LESSER COUCAL, 10+ INDIAN BUSHLARK, 1M HODGSONS BUSHCHAT (this rare and localised bird was an excellent find after checking hundreds of Stonechats!), 100+ STONECHAT, 2 STRIATED PRINIA, 30+ ASHY PRINIA, 1 LONG-BILLED PIPIT, & 3 TAWNY PIPIT.
Mammals were very numerous around the lake and surrounding habitat, 50+ CHITAL, 15+ SAMBAR, 50+ RHESUS MACAQUE, 50+ HANUMAN LANGUR, 8 GOLDEN JACKAL, & 20 WILD BOAR.
Back at camp we finished the day with a very obliging RED-BREASTED/TAIGA FLYCATCHER, an instructive bird that we eventually ascribed to TAIGA "albicilla".
Overnight at Dhikala
DAY TEN: 29th December 2004
Dhikala, Corbett NP 0730 - 1700
Our destination today was Kanda hill on the North side of the lake and then higher up to a mountain bungalow for lunch. As we crossed the Ramaganga river we had, the now expected mix of Storks, Egrets & Kingfishers.
A brief stop along scrub before the river produced a new trip bird, with a group of 10 YELLOW-EYED BABBLERS.
The birding got more challenging and exciting as we headed into hilly primary forest, 2 stops produced a good number of birds, but nothing new - then came the call of a much sought after species, minutes passed, and all of a sudden they were in the tree tops above us, not just one but a flock of about 8-9 LONG-TAILED BROADBILLS absolutely stunning. A supporting cast of 4 GREY-CAPPED PYGMY WOODPECKER, 1 LESSER YELLOWNAPE, 6 GREY HEADED WOODPECKER, 2 GREATER FLAMEBACK, 4 SCARLET MINIVET, 10 YELLOW-BELLIED FANTAIL, 2 WHITE THROATED FANTAIL, 1 RUFOUS BELLIED NILTAVA, 5 CHESTNUT BELLIED NUTHATCH, 2 WHITE TAILED NUTHATCH, 2 VELVET FRONTED NUTHATCH, BAR-TAILED TREECREEPER, 5 BLACK-LORED TIT, 2 BLACK THROATED TIT, 10 LEMON RUMPED WARBLER, 1 GREENISH WARBLER & 1 GREY HEADED WARBLER.
We continued upwards in the fine forest habitat, our journey came to an abrupt end when we reached a 30m tree that had recently fallen - straight across the track. We stopped for lunch watching some local village women collecting cattle fodder by climbing the trees and stripping leaves, our guide informed these people had walked 8 miles from their village to collect the correct leaves - and would be returning with their load in the afternoon.
Shortly after lunch we started to head back, a stop produced a another nice mixed flock, but also several WHITE-BROWED SHRIKE BABBLER and a few minutes later a lone superb male CHESTNUT-BELLIED ROCK THRUSH was another addition to the trip list.
We headed down towards the shoreline of the Ramganga reservoir this time viewing the Reservoir from its northern shoreline. Overhead we picked out a single ALPINE SWIFT, amongst a mass of CRESTED TREESWIFT. A line of guano covered trees held roosting GREAT CORMORANTS, and an inlet a single GOOSANDER. The real highlight from here, although distant was a wild group of 20 INDIAN ELEPHANT.
Overnight at Dhikala
DAY ELEVEN: 30th December 2004
Dhikala, Corbett NP 0730 - 1500
After breakfast (a non-event for me after a night of visiting the loo!) we got to grips with both SCALY BREASTED MUNIA & RED AVADAVAT, we had probably seen both in preceding days but on most occasions they would explode from the grass verge and disappear into the distance!
We then slowly headed back from Dhikala towards the main entrance of the NP, making several stops we saw a varied mix of similar birds and mammals as per the previous 3 days. We did however witness a SHIKRA kill and then pluck a Yellownape, with a GREEN MAGPIE in close attendance awaiting its turn.
The other species of note today were a RUSTY-CHEEKED SCIMITAR BABBLER, which after much patience eventually gave reasonable views, 1 BLUE-WINGED MINLA & 3 BLACK BULBUL.
We were greeted back at Forktail by our hosts and we spent a wonderful evening around the campfire relaying our tales of 5 Tigers, and a wonderful array of birds.
Overnight at Camp Forktail
DAY TWELVE: 31ST December 2004
Camp Forktail 0800 – 1130, Vanghat River Lodge 1300 - 1700
Our last day before heading back to Delhi, we decided on some casual birding around Forktail in the morning and then returning to Vanghat River Lodge for a quiet New Years Eve.
The HIMALAYAN RUBYTHROAT was again showing well before breakfast, the usual mix of birds were around the camp, also 1 GOLDEN FRONTED LEAFBIRD, plus a flock of 25+LINEATED & 6 BLUE THROATED BARBET passed straight through the campsite.
On the fields between camp and the village 20 YELLOW-BREASTED GREENFINCH were feeding and a flock of 30 BLACK-CRESTED BULBUL passed through.
We said our farewells to all of the wonderful staff at Camp Forktail Creek and headed off to Gharat River Lodge. We walked in via the big modern suspension bridge this time, the dried out area in front of the bridge immediately produced two new species fro the trip, 1M DESERT WHEATEAR & 1 VARIABLE WHEATEAR.
The day finished watching 1 LITTLE FORKTAIL, 1 WALLCREEPER, WATER REDSTARTS and the graceful hawking overhead of 30 BRONZED DRONGO.
Overnight at Vanghat River Lodge
DAY THIRTEEN: 16th April 2004
En route to Delhi
We said fond farewells to both Ghosh and Kunwar whom had not just been great guides, but also wonderful company. Traveled back to Delhi- noted the usual masses of BLACK KITES & EGRETS ETC
Overnight at Hotel Connaught, Delhi - flew back to UK next morning.
Pictures: Chris Mills
DAY ONE: 19th December 2004
Delhi - en route to Corbett NP 1330 - 1900
We arrived at Delhi airport at around 1:00pm, we were collected by Sumantha Ghosh of Wild World India and a driver. We undertook the colourful but rather arduous drive to Corbett NP - stopping off a couple of times the journey took around 6 hours. The first roadside birds we noted were HOOPOE, 10+BLACK-SHOULDERED KITE, 10+WHITE-BREASTED KINGFISHER, 20+ ROSE-RINGED PARAKEEET, 6 EGYPTIAN VULTURE, GREAT EGRET, 100'S CATTLE EGRET, 30+ BLACK DRONGO, 10+ PIED STARLING, 100'S BLACK KITES, 5+ LONG-TAILED SHRIKE, 6 EGYPTIAN VULTURE, INDIAN HOUSE CROW, BANK & COMMON MYNA.
We arrived at Camp Forktail around 6:30PM had an evening curry, bottle of beer and sat around the campfire listening to the alarm calls of Sambar; Spotted Deer. Deprived of sleep for the last 20 hours and starting to feel the pinch, we were tucked up in our tent by 930PM.
Overnight at Camp Forktail
DAY TWO: 20th December 2004
Camp Forktail 0730 – 1000, Bhakrakot 1000 – 1300, Woodland east of campsite 1500 - 1730
The next morning we awoke around 6:45 as it was getting light, and we had an hours birding in the camp prior to breakfast. The first birds just outside the tent were a small group of BLACK-CHINNED BABBLERS, moments later we were gasping at a superb HIMALAYAN RUBYTHROAT it was sat motionless in a torpid state no doubt an affect of the cold dawn air. A full circuit of the campsite produced yet more excitement, the pick of birds being; 1 WHITE-THROATED FANTAIL, 3 LINEATED BARBET, 2 BLUE-THROATED BARBET, 10 SCARLET MINIVET, 1 BAR-WINGED FLYCATCHER SHRIKE & 2 GIANT HORNBILLS. The commonest birds around the campsite were clearly the HIMALAYAN BULBUL, ORIENTAL WHITEYE & ASHY PRINIA with groups of seen in most of the areas.
Breakfast was shared with the resident GREY BUSHCHAT & JUNGLE BABBLERS, these hopped in and around the eating area.
After breakfast we decided to head north of the campsite, we walked up a path which passes through fields and the small village of Bhakrakhoot just beyond the village to the left the village fields border the edge of some secondary forest. The fields and village produced PALE MARTIN, 2 LONG-BILLED PIPIT, 10 GREY TREEPIE, ORIENTAL TRUTLE DOVE, 5+ LONG-TAILED SHRIKE, BLACK-CRESTED BULBUL 4+, CRESTED TREE SWIFT, RED-HEADED VULTURE, 6 YELLOW-BREASTED GREENFINCH. The woodland edge treated us some different species, 1 BLACK-LORED TIT, 2 GREY CAPPED PYGMY WOODPECKER, 2 LEMON RUMPED WARBELRS, 2 GREY HOODED WARBLERS, YELLOW-BELLIED FANTAIL,1 FULVOUS BREASTED WOODPECKER, 2 VELVET-FRONTED NUTHATCH, 1M SLATY BLUE FLYCATCHER, & 1 COMMON IORA.
We headed back for lunch around 1.30PM. After a lazy lunch, Kunwar our guide suggested we bird the woodland to the east of the campsite an area he was very familiar with. The woodland here is on a steep hillside that eventually leads down to a stream that eventually meets the road. Several new species were added including a couple of "must see" species; 2+WHITE-CRESTED LAUGHING THRUSH, 2 ASHY BULBUL, 3 GOLDEN SPECTACLED WARBLER, 1 KALIJ PHEASANT, 2 SPOTTED FORKTAIL, SEV BLUE WHISTLING THRUSH, and after many minutes of waiting 1 CHESTNUT-HEADED TESIA
Overnight at Camp Forktail
DAY THREE: 21st December 2004
Camp Forktail 0730 – 1000, Bhakrakhot & Forest to North 1000 – 1300, Woodland east of campsite 1500 - 1730
We had decided to take things easy in the first couple of days and to that effect we spent the morning birding similar areas to yesterday morning - but continued to add new species to the list.
Many of the species from yesterday were seen again - but additional species today were STREAK-THROATED WOODPECKER, SCALY BELLIED WOODPECKER, GREATER YELLOWNAPE, BLACK-WINGED CUCKOO SHRIKE,& ASIAN BARRED OWLET.
After a "brunch" we headed up North of the campsite again, but this time continued past the village, following the footpath we eventually reached a good area of secondary forest, with a fast running stream down a wooded hillside to our right.
This area yielded pulses of birds in tight feeding flocks, birds such as 5 GREY HOODED WARBLER, 1 STREAKED LAUGHING THRUSH, 2 BLUE WINGED MINLA, 20 GREY HEADED CANARY FLYCATCHER, 3 TICKELLS WARBLER, 1 RUSTY-CHEEKED SCIMITAR BABBLER, 3 CHESTNUT-BELLIED NUTHATCH, 2 WHITE-TAILED NUTHATCH, 3 VELVET-FRONTED NUTHATCH, 1 RUFOUS BELLIED EAGLE, 1 GREAT BARBET, 2 WHISKERED YUHINA, 2 SPOTTED FORKTAIL, 2 HUMES WARBLER, 1 RED-BILLED BLUE MAGPIE,& 20+ LEMON-RUMPED WARBLER.
We returned to camp had a late afternoon cup of tea, and walked the area east of the camp again, adding new species such as HIMALAYAN FLAMEBACK & RUFOUS-GORGETED FLYCATCHER. Kunwar showed us Leopard scats, and we found leaves still holding the animals urine from where the animal had been territory scent-marking. Following the tracks, we found an area of ground that had been disturbed, and lots of deer hair - Kunwar explained that this was clearly a kill from the previous evening.
Overnight at Camp Forktail
DAY FOUR: 22nd December 2004
Forktail - Kosi River 0700 – 1200, Machore Mountain road 1230 - 1600
The day started with some early excitement, Ghosh from Wild World India whom organised our trip had arrived just before light and as he approached the camp he had seen a wild Indian Elephant. Breakfast was temporarily abandoned as we searched the area.
Unfortunately despite hearing the movements of the elephant we were unable to see it - incredibly! We did add couple more birds to the list in the form of BLACK-HEADED ORIOLE & MAROON ORIOLE.
After breakfast we headed out in a Suzuki jeep with Ghosh our host and Kunwar our guide. Our first stop was the Kosi River area which produced 5 WHITE-CAPPED WATER REDSTART, 12 PLUMBEOUS WATER REDSTART, 1PR at NEST BROWN DIPPER, SPOTTED FORKTAIL, 2 WHITE-BROWED WAGTAIL, 1 RIVER LAPWING, 1 ROOSTING BROWN FISH OWL, 1PR at NEST PALLAS'S FISH EAGLE, 80 SLATY-HEADED PARAKEET, 1 GOLDEN LEAFBIRD, 20 SCARLET MINIVET, 10 COMMON WOODSHRIKE.
We continued our journey up into the mountains via the Machore mountain road, it was noticeable even since our last visit 3 years ago how few Vultures were present, but we did see 2 HIMLAYAN GRIFFON VULTURES & 13 EURASIAN GRIFFON VULTURES.
The views along this road towards the top are breathtaking, and the distant backdrop of the snow-capped Himalayas offers a fantastic perspective. We made several stops, the weather was cloudy and cool and this hampered our search for some of the altitude species such as accentors. However, we had a pleasant mix of birds including 1 LITTLE SWIFT, 2 RED-BILLED BLUE MAGPIE, 1 STEPPE EAGLE, 2 RUFOUS-BELLIED EAGLE, 6 COMMON ROSEFINCH, 1 JUNGLE OWLET, 1 ASHY DRONGO,4 BLUE-CAPPED REDSTART AND 2 BLUE BREASTED QUAIL.
Overnight at Camp Forktail
DAY FIVE: 23rd December 2004
Corbett NP Bijrani Gate 0700 - 1600
The next morning we breakfasted early and were heading through the Corbett National Park gates at 7am, our efforts today were mainly from the jeep in the Bijrani area.
There are rest areas in the park and here you can get out and wander to bird. Everyone's senses were heightened knowing this was our first really good chance of seeing TIGER, our previous visit to India, taking in Ranthambhore and Corbett had only resulted in near misses and lots of pugmarks.
The first birds were en-route to and at the main rest area just inside the park, best birds here were, 5 FULVOUS-BREASTED WOODPECKER, 2 LESSER YELLOWNAPE, 4 HIMLAYAN FLAMEBACK, 10+BLACK-RUMPED FLAMEBACK, 3 COPPERSMITH BARBET, 1 CRESTED KINGFISHER, 1 ALEXANDRINE PARAKEET,1 ASIAN BARRED OWLET, 3 JUNGLE OWLET, 1 CRESTED SERPENT EAGLE, 1 CHANGEABLE HAWK EAGLE, 2 GOLDEN FRONTED LEAFBIRD it was a cold morning and a torpid WRYNECK, allowed me to approach it down to 2.0m.
As we continued through the park several times we tracked fresh tiger pug marks, but still failed to see any tigers! The bird list continued with the pick of birds being 1 BAY-BACKED SHRIKE, 20+ BLACK-HEADED ORIOLE, 3 LESSER RACKET TAILED DRONGO, 1 SLATY BLUE FLYCATCHER, 5+ CHESTNUT BELLIED NUTCHATCH, 2 WHITE-TAILED NUTHATCH, 12+ VELVET FRONTED NUTHATCH, 2 OLIVE-BACKED PIPIT, 2 WHISKERED YUHINA, 1 WHITES THRUSH, 1 GREY FRANCOLIN (heard only) plus many of the commoner species.
Our mammal list got well under way with 30+ HANUMAN LANGUR, 50+ RHESUS MACAQUE, 4 WILD BOAR, 20+ MUNTJAC, 8+ SAMBAR DEER, 2+ PALM SQUIRREL, 50+ CHITAL and at least 4 different sets of tiger pugmarks - but no tiger.
Overnight at Camp Forktail
DAY SIX: 24th December 2004
Camp Forktail 0700 – 0900, Vanghat River Lodge 1000-1700
The short walk from the tent to the dining area produced close views of BLACK FRANCOLIN, and rather more impressive were a stunning RUFOUS BELLIED NILTAVA & 2 RUFOUS ORGETED FLYCATCHER.
After breakfast we were dropped off from the jeep and we then walked a 3 mile descent to our destination for this afternoon and evening at Bhanghat fishing Lodge. This lodge is owned by Ghosh of WildWorld India, it hosts a wonderful small stone cottage in the most fantastic setting of forested mountains and the fast running Ramganga river. The birding was just as good, 5 PLUM-HEADED PARAKEET, 1 LARGE TAILED NIGHTJAR, 1 RIVER LAPWING, 1 PALLAS'S FISH EAGLE, 2 ORIENTAL HONEY BUZZARD, 1 BLACK STORK, 2 GREEN MAGPIE, 2 WHITE BELLIED DRONGO, 1 BROWN DIPPER, 1 BLACK REDSTART, 6+ WHITE-CAPPED WATER REDSTART, 5+ PLUMBEOUS WATER REDSTART, 1 SPOTTED FORKTAIL, 2 CHESTNUT-BELLIED NUTHATCH, 4 VELVET FRONTED NUTHATCH, & 1 WALLCREEPER.
The river is famous for Mahseer, and Mahseer angling, encouraged by Ghosh to have a go I tried my luck for a few hours, but despite being able to see a shoal containing some huge fish in the lovely clear water - my luck was out. However, I was accompanied on the rocks just 20m away by a LITTLE FORKTAIL, the first of the trip.
As we walked out of the valley in the early afternoon we had 80 SLATY HEADED PARAKEET, 1 EMERALD DOVE, 1 EURASIAN GRIFFON VULTURE, 2 BLACK STORK, 4 NEPAL HOUSE MARTIN, 1 WHITE THROATED FANTAIL.
During the rest of the afternoon we explored 3 ravines just off the road that leads to Camp Forktail, all of these areas held reasonable numbers of birds and are well worth exploring, these areas produced 1 GREATER FLAMEBACK, 3 LESSER YELLOWNAPE, 4 HIMALAYAN FLAMEBACK, 1 SHIKRA, 2 GREEN MAGPIE, 2 GREY HEADED CANARY FLYCATCHER, RED-BILLED LEIOTHRIX, 2 MARRON ORIOLE, 1 YELLOW BREASTED FANTAIL, 5 BLUE-WINGED MINLA & 2 GREAT HORNBILL these being at the entrance to Camp Forktail.
Overnight at Vanghat River Lodge
DAY SEVEN: 26th December 2004
Lohachaur 0800 – 1530, Camp Forktail 1530- 1700
Today we set off for Lohachaur a buffer zone of the Corbett NP, this enabled us to bird on foot in primary forest, best birds were 1 RED JUNGLEFOWL, 4 KALIJ PHEASANT, 1 LESSER YELLOWNAPE, 1 GREATER YELLOWNAPE, 1 HIMALAYAN FLAMEBACK, 5 GREEN MAGPIE, 3 LONG TAILED MINIVET, 20+ SCARLET MINIVET, 8 BAR-WINGED FLYCATCHER SHRIKE, 3 YELLOW BELLIED FANTAIL, 2 WHITE BROWED FANTAIL, 5+ ASHY DRONGO, 15 BRONZED DRONGO, 2 RUFOUS GORGETED FLYCATCHER, 2 TAIGA FLYCATCHER, 3 RUFOUS BELLIED NILTAVA, 1 WHITE RUMPED SHAMA, 10 CHESTNUT BELLIED NUTHATCH, 2 WHITE TAILED NUTHATCH, 3+ VELVET FRONTED NUTHATCH, 5+ ASHY BULBUL, 10+ LEMON RUMPED WARBLER, 20 WHITE CRESTED LAUGHING THRUSH, 2 PUFF THROATED BABBLER, 1 MRS. GOULDS SUNBIRD, 4+ MAROON ORIOLE.
The track eventually reaches the Ramganga river and provides excellent panoramic views over the forest hills and resulted in additional species, overhead we noted 80 CRESTED TREE SWIFT, 10 ASIAN PALM SWIFT, 30 NEPAL HOUSE MARTIN, 10 EURASIAN GRIFFON VULTURE, 1 CRESTED SERPENT EAGLE, 1 ORIENTAL HONEY BUZZARD, 1 BONELLI'S EAGLE. The river added 2 CRESTED KINGFISHER, 2 RIVER LAPWING, 1 BLACK STORK, both species of WATER REDSTART, 1 LITTLE FORKTAIL.
We also had nice views of a small party of SMOOTH COATED OTTER, followed later by close up views of GOLDEN JACKAL, also the usual mix of CHITAL, SAMBAR, MUNTJAC, RHESUS MACAQUE & HANUMAN LANGUR.
The day ended with one more species for the trip being added, when a ROSE-BREASTED PARAKEET flew over the campsite.
Overnight at Camp Forktail
DAY EIGHT: 27th December 2004
Dhikala, Corbett NP 0630 - 1600
We left camp early this morning as we set off for Dhikala, an area in the innermost part of Corbett NP. We were to be based there for the next 4 days and had been told that this area had been extremely good for seeing Tiger - so hopes were running high.
We made several stops at appointed rest and viewing areas, the habitat was forest interspersed with boulder-strewn streams, and dried out riverbeds.
The pick of the birds during the morning were 3 BLUE THROATED BARBET, 2 COPPERSMITH BARBET, 4 CRESTED KINGFISHER,12 ALEXANDRINE PARAKEET, 2 JUNGLE OWLET, 1 LESSER FISH EAGLE, 1 PALLAS'S FISH EAGLE, 1 CINEREOUS VULTURE, 1 RED-HEADED VULTURE, 2 CRESTED SERPENT EAGLE, one of the most charismatic birds of the trip COLLARED FALCONET, & 1 PIED KINGFISHER that was lucky to survive the persistent dives and pursuit of a PEREGRINE, eventually submerging itself in the river to save itself.
The river and its banks also yielded MARSH CROCODILE (4-5M LONG) & a very large CATFISH.
As we headed into the forest areas stops produced 1 GREEN MAGPIE, 5 LONG TAILED MINIVET, 1 SLATY BACKED FLYCATCHER, 1 CHESTNUT HOODED TESIA, 20+ LEMON RUMPED WARBLER, 5 GREY HEADED WARBLER, 1 RED-WHISKERED BULBUL, 10 BLACK-CHINNED BABBLER, 3 BLUE WINGED MINLA, 1 WHITES THRUSH & the familiar mix of woodpeckers & nuthatches already seen.
As early afternoon approached, Kunwar & Ghosh led us to a 12m high watchtower that overlooked the river, the view was panoramic and the horizon distant. We settled down on top of the platform to enjoy our lunch, but before we had chance to take a second mouthful, Kunwar started a panic without even raising his binoculars he hissed " TIGER, TIGER crossing the river", there was 2 - a Tigress and a 9 month old cub. They were distant but through the scope we had terrific views, they crossed steadily the cub noticing our attentions, giving a couple of low calls - mother led the way seemingly unbothered by her cubs concerns. All the surrounding Chital & Sambar stood to attention. For 2-3 minutes we had watched them, it seemed it a lot longer then they were gone, disappearing into the vegetation.
After the excitement had died down and we had finished our lunch and Ghosh and Kunwar took us to an elephant station where they hoped we could take an elephant ride and catch up with the Tiger we had just seen. The elephant ride was an experience not to be missed, despite not relocating the tigers we had fantastic views of many of the river birds, the birds allowing much closer approach. The best birds were 1 STORK-BILLED KINGFISHER, 6 WHITE-BREASTED KINGFISHER, 4 CRESTED KINGFISHER, 2 PIED KINGFISHER, 6 RIVER LAPWING, 1 LITTLE HERON, 1 BLACK STORK,& 1 BLACK-NECKED STORK.
We were off the elephant and back in the jeep at around 4:30PM our next stop was Dhikala camp. But the day wasn't quite finished, as we crossed a dried river bed en-route, Kunwar glimpsed something in the late afternoon light - the driver quickly reversed, about 25m away stood a superb adult TIGRESS - she instinctively lowered herself tight to the ground, we drove up the hill and then cutting the engine rolled back down to see if she had moved - she had and we glimpsed her a couple of times in the vegetation- fantastic!!
We just made camp in time to avoid the late gate fine - but I would have happily have paid the fine.
Footnote: We returned to the dried riverbed the following night at the same time, and saw the same Tigress and briefly a male Tiger, but views were limited to "stripes and eyes in the vegetation".
Overnight at Dhikala
DAY NINE: 28th December 2004
Dhikala, Corbett NP 0730 - 1700
Breakfast was entertaining as from the restaurant window we watched 5 GOLDEN JACKALS playing, as 2 CHITAL kept a close eye. We then headed out in the jeep to the grassland areas that adjoining the Ramganga reservoir. The reservoir does not have a great reputation for wetland birds, but nevertheless with the surrounding grassland offers a very different habitat to the rest of the park, it is a vast area with many tracks - and we added several new species for the trip. Some of the birds on today's list were 5 INDIAN PEAFOWL, 5 BLACK FRANCOLIN, 3 GREAT EGRET, 2 INTERMEDIATE EGRET, 20+ LITTLE EGRET, 5+ GREY HERON, 30 RED-RUMPED SWALLOW, 1 BLUETHROAT, 3 HEN HARRIER, 2 WOOLLY NECKED STORK, TEAL, 1 GREENSHANK, 2 OSPREY, 30+ ZITTING CISTICOLA, 3 INDIAN POND HERON, 2 PALLAS'S FISH EAGLES, 5 RED WATTLED LAPWING, 2 CHANGEABLE HAWK EAGLE, 3 HOOPOE, 6 CINEREOUS VULTURE,2 LONG-BILLED VULTURE, 3 RED-HEADED VULTURE, 1 COLLARED FALCONET, 30 SLATY HEADED PARAKEET, 50+ CRESTED TREE SWIFT, 4 COMMON SNIPE, 1 LESSER COUCAL, 10+ INDIAN BUSHLARK, 1M HODGSONS BUSHCHAT (this rare and localised bird was an excellent find after checking hundreds of Stonechats!), 100+ STONECHAT, 2 STRIATED PRINIA, 30+ ASHY PRINIA, 1 LONG-BILLED PIPIT, & 3 TAWNY PIPIT.
Mammals were very numerous around the lake and surrounding habitat, 50+ CHITAL, 15+ SAMBAR, 50+ RHESUS MACAQUE, 50+ HANUMAN LANGUR, 8 GOLDEN JACKAL, & 20 WILD BOAR.
Back at camp we finished the day with a very obliging RED-BREASTED/TAIGA FLYCATCHER, an instructive bird that we eventually ascribed to TAIGA "albicilla".
Overnight at Dhikala
DAY TEN: 29th December 2004
Dhikala, Corbett NP 0730 - 1700
Our destination today was Kanda hill on the North side of the lake and then higher up to a mountain bungalow for lunch. As we crossed the Ramaganga river we had, the now expected mix of Storks, Egrets & Kingfishers.
A brief stop along scrub before the river produced a new trip bird, with a group of 10 YELLOW-EYED BABBLERS.
The birding got more challenging and exciting as we headed into hilly primary forest, 2 stops produced a good number of birds, but nothing new - then came the call of a much sought after species, minutes passed, and all of a sudden they were in the tree tops above us, not just one but a flock of about 8-9 LONG-TAILED BROADBILLS absolutely stunning. A supporting cast of 4 GREY-CAPPED PYGMY WOODPECKER, 1 LESSER YELLOWNAPE, 6 GREY HEADED WOODPECKER, 2 GREATER FLAMEBACK, 4 SCARLET MINIVET, 10 YELLOW-BELLIED FANTAIL, 2 WHITE THROATED FANTAIL, 1 RUFOUS BELLIED NILTAVA, 5 CHESTNUT BELLIED NUTHATCH, 2 WHITE TAILED NUTHATCH, 2 VELVET FRONTED NUTHATCH, BAR-TAILED TREECREEPER, 5 BLACK-LORED TIT, 2 BLACK THROATED TIT, 10 LEMON RUMPED WARBLER, 1 GREENISH WARBLER & 1 GREY HEADED WARBLER.
We continued upwards in the fine forest habitat, our journey came to an abrupt end when we reached a 30m tree that had recently fallen - straight across the track. We stopped for lunch watching some local village women collecting cattle fodder by climbing the trees and stripping leaves, our guide informed these people had walked 8 miles from their village to collect the correct leaves - and would be returning with their load in the afternoon.
Shortly after lunch we started to head back, a stop produced a another nice mixed flock, but also several WHITE-BROWED SHRIKE BABBLER and a few minutes later a lone superb male CHESTNUT-BELLIED ROCK THRUSH was another addition to the trip list.
We headed down towards the shoreline of the Ramganga reservoir this time viewing the Reservoir from its northern shoreline. Overhead we picked out a single ALPINE SWIFT, amongst a mass of CRESTED TREESWIFT. A line of guano covered trees held roosting GREAT CORMORANTS, and an inlet a single GOOSANDER. The real highlight from here, although distant was a wild group of 20 INDIAN ELEPHANT.
Overnight at Dhikala
DAY ELEVEN: 30th December 2004
Dhikala, Corbett NP 0730 - 1500
After breakfast (a non-event for me after a night of visiting the loo!) we got to grips with both SCALY BREASTED MUNIA & RED AVADAVAT, we had probably seen both in preceding days but on most occasions they would explode from the grass verge and disappear into the distance!
We then slowly headed back from Dhikala towards the main entrance of the NP, making several stops we saw a varied mix of similar birds and mammals as per the previous 3 days. We did however witness a SHIKRA kill and then pluck a Yellownape, with a GREEN MAGPIE in close attendance awaiting its turn.
The other species of note today were a RUSTY-CHEEKED SCIMITAR BABBLER, which after much patience eventually gave reasonable views, 1 BLUE-WINGED MINLA & 3 BLACK BULBUL.
We were greeted back at Forktail by our hosts and we spent a wonderful evening around the campfire relaying our tales of 5 Tigers, and a wonderful array of birds.
Overnight at Camp Forktail
DAY TWELVE: 31ST December 2004
Camp Forktail 0800 – 1130, Vanghat River Lodge 1300 - 1700
Our last day before heading back to Delhi, we decided on some casual birding around Forktail in the morning and then returning to Vanghat River Lodge for a quiet New Years Eve.
The HIMALAYAN RUBYTHROAT was again showing well before breakfast, the usual mix of birds were around the camp, also 1 GOLDEN FRONTED LEAFBIRD, plus a flock of 25+LINEATED & 6 BLUE THROATED BARBET passed straight through the campsite.
On the fields between camp and the village 20 YELLOW-BREASTED GREENFINCH were feeding and a flock of 30 BLACK-CRESTED BULBUL passed through.
We said our farewells to all of the wonderful staff at Camp Forktail Creek and headed off to Gharat River Lodge. We walked in via the big modern suspension bridge this time, the dried out area in front of the bridge immediately produced two new species fro the trip, 1M DESERT WHEATEAR & 1 VARIABLE WHEATEAR.
The day finished watching 1 LITTLE FORKTAIL, 1 WALLCREEPER, WATER REDSTARTS and the graceful hawking overhead of 30 BRONZED DRONGO.
Overnight at Vanghat River Lodge
DAY THIRTEEN: 16th April 2004
En route to Delhi
We said fond farewells to both Ghosh and Kunwar whom had not just been great guides, but also wonderful company. Traveled back to Delhi- noted the usual masses of BLACK KITES & EGRETS ETC
Overnight at Hotel Connaught, Delhi - flew back to UK next morning.
Pictures: Chris Mills
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