Marriages are made in Heaven (May, 2003)

A British couple tie the knot on their trek to Bedni Bugyal


When a British couple expressed their desire to get married in one of the world’s largest and highest meadows, you can’t dismiss it as high altitude sickness. It stems from something more; a serious malady called love. It was certainly the strangest request we had ever received. We prided ourselves in our ability to customize a tour to the liking of our clients but this was truly unusual. Couples have done it underwater, in outer space, even mid-air while skydiving but whoever heard of getting married on a trek!

It wasn’t a request you could politely turn down, as this was Mark’s third trip with Wild World India. Having grown up on legendary tales of British adventurers Shipton & Tillman (the first to scale Nanda Devi), Mark harboured the romantic notion of getting married on the Tillman’s trail. It was easier to get him married in Joshimath, where matrimonial trappings were easily available or at Wan, where he just had to go around a temple to be married, without the help of a priest. But having spent enough time in India, Mark was well versed with Indian traditions. He wanted an authentic Hindu wedding, a grand affair that ranked midway between a gandharva vivah and an ashwamedha yagna – with true-blood pahari musicians, a pandit to chant the Sanskrit shlokas, a menhdi artist for the bride, a cook who could easily switch between pasta and paalak and a professional photographer to capture every single frame of this epic tale. In an earlier trip Mark got engaged at the Ganesh temple inside the 1000-year-old Ranthambhore fort.

A fortnight before the couple flew into Delhi; Chief Naturalist of Wild World India Sumantha Ghosh did an extensive reconnaissance trip to Bedni. Ghosh’s first job was to assemble his crew. The keyword was fitness. If the priest fumbled on his mantras but didn’t stumble on his step, he was in. Since it was the marriage season in the mountains, two priests were sourced with great difficulty from the Sanskrit Academy in Ramnagar. They were quite fit, for each had to carry 20 kg sacks of sacred knickknacks including 3-4 sacred brass bells of varying sizes. Four local village musicians were sourced from Loharjung Pass, the base-camp of the trek. With a dhol, a small percussion instrument, a bagpipe and a local clarinet, the Bedni Quartet was complete. Devender, the regular excursion cook was an expert who could easily stir up a 4-course meal. A local tracker, two porters and 4 horses were kept on standby to carry kerosene, stoves, camping equipment, kitchen tent, luggage, toilet tent and provisions for the 21-day trek.


With the tough part out of the way, Ghosh was onto his next step – actually doing the trek to figure out the lay of the land, proximity to a water source, vantage points for romantic stopovers and nitty-gritties like which way the bride’s tent should face. Gauri, the soft-spoken fleet-footed mountain man who led most trekking expeditions for Wild World India, accompanied Ghosh. Together, they did the trek in seven days and returned to Delhi with just enough time to finalize the photographer. By the end of Ghosh’s lengthy discourse on ‘Once-in-a-lifetime-opportunities’ and lured by the untold magic of Bedni, Prithvi Gill agreed. With 4 cameras and as many lenses, it amounted to 35-40 kg for his porter, plus 20 kg for himself. Two days later, with heaving breaths and big smiles pasted on their faces, Ghosh and Gauri received Mark and Liz at the airport. The mad marriage was on.

After the overnight train-ride to Ramnagar, it was a further 10-hour drive to Loharjung, from where Tapovan (the end of the trail) was 125 km. Since it wasn’t the distance but the altitude you covered in a day that mattered, the team stayed the night at Loharjung to acclimatize and started next morning after an early breakfast.


The first leg was a 5-hour trek that led down into the temperate forests of the Gyan Ganga Valley, across the river and uphill above the small village of Didana where they set up camp. The second day was far more grueling. The altitudinal gain of 2000m took the team right above the tree line, where the air got thinner and everyone could feel its dehydrating effect. As they approached Bedni Pass, a sudden hailstorm enveloped them. It snowed heavily; the temperature plummeted to sub-zero and the lashing wind turned more hostile. Luckily, the group made it to the log hut before dark. It was the night before marriage. While the eggs boiled, the menhdi paste was prepared. In the mountains, they apply menhdi even to the bridegroom. In accordance to strict Hindu traditions the couple was politely asked to stay apart till the next morning.


Next day – through some cosmic intervention – the weather just opened up, like the gods knew of the impending marriage. The group unzipped their tents, only to be stunned by a glimpse of the Chaukhamba (23,555ft), Nilkanth (21,766ft) and the majestic Nanda Ghunti that loomed in front. As the sun came up, the snow began to melt and drained off the slopes like raindrops bouncing off a lotus leaf. The ground seemed like a lush green carpet sequined with yellow and purple flowers. While the wedding was on, a huge flock of sheep gatecrashed the venue, accompanied by mountain horses and bhotiya dogs – like a huge marriage procession. At 11,000 ft, it did seem that marriages are indeed made in heaven.


The ceremony took place at the Nanda Devi temple. It’s alleged that eons ago Lord Shiva and Parvati got married at this very place. Out of sheer reverence or perhaps due to the fact that the place was so far flung, no one had got married here ever since. Strange as it sounded, after Shiva and Parvati ¬– right on the other end of the pigment spectrum – it was Mark and Liz. Just so that no feathers were ruffled, two priests came from Wan and oversaw the sacred thread ritual as part of Mark’s purification rites. Then came the problem of who’d give away the bride. Before an emotional Ghosh could find his voice, Gauri answered the priest that he was older and hence became Liz’s makeshift brother. Ghosh had to make do with being Mark’s best man.


The marriage ceremony lasted three hours. To maintain the sanctity of the temple, no non-veg was allowed, so the wedding feast was purely vegetarian – poori-alu, chholey and halwa. Some 30 guests came for the feast – local villagers, bhotiya tribesmen, Austrian and Danish trekkers. After the feast, there was a dance party and Mark’s only bottle of Glennfiddich was doled out in wartime ration amounts. The words of Bill Tilman rang true – “We live in an age of mechanization and in recent years it has become apparent that even mountaineering is in danger of becoming mechanized. It is therefore pleasing to record that in climbing Nanda Devi, no climbing aids were used, apart, that is, from the apricot brandy we took.” In sharp contrast, the trekking party had to make do with some atrocious hooch made from fermented rice and sheep meat, supplied by Golmaal, the caretaker of the small shack at Bedni.


The marriage euphoria lasted for a day and then it was back to regular trekking. The photographer, his porter, the pandits and the musicians returned from Bedni but Mark and Liz plodded on for two more weeks with the remaining skeletal team. After the first week the vegetables got over and they had to switch to tinned food like mushrooms, tuna and baked beans. Once some Bhotiyas sold an injured sheep (mauled by a leopard) for Rs.400. It was not lack of love but more a sense of reality that made them do so. But it meant a rare feast for the trekking party. At Bedni, they spotted the Himalayan Brown Bear, Himalayan Tahr, Yellow-throated Marten, Monal pheasants and the Himalayan Pika, a tame mouse hare that timidly peeped out of its burrow.


Though many trekked to Bedni Bugyal, few extended the trail to cover the Roop Kund and Kuari Pass treks in one go. The trail was partly on a centuries old pilgrim pathway that formed the Nanda Devi Raj jat yatra. After 21 days of trekking, the newly weds finally emerged at Joshimath. It was the sort of arduous journey that can break marriages, but in the case of this adventurous couple, it only strengthened the bond. Tired and weather-beaten, they drove in via Rishikesh to see the divine aarti at Har Ki Pauri in the evening and finally returned to Delhi heading straight from the railway station to Vikram’s house. Liz kicked a kalash (sacred vase) of rice at his doorstep and completed the formality of the house-entering ceremony. There was just enough time for lunch and a farewell party before the couple caught their flight back to London. Strangely, no one had told Liz about the vidai ritual but by some acquired instinct she cried like she was leaving her family behind.


Bedni Bugyal: Treasure trove of natural wonders
Since the whole area is part of the Nanda Devi Biosphere Reserve, it is rich in Himalayan flora and fauna. One can see Pika, Red Fox, Himalayan Tahr, Yellow-throated Marten, Snowcock and Mrs Gould’s Sunbird while Lammergeyers and Himalayan Griffons silently glide in the skies above. At Bhagubasa, you can sometimes see pugmarks of the Snow Leopard. Seeing it is difficult, which has earned it the name The Grey Ghost of the Himalayas. Near Kuari Pass, you can see bharal (Blue Bull), Himalayan Black Bear and the multi-coloured Himalayan Monal, the state bird of Uttaranchal and Nepal’s national bird.

Wild World India’s pointers towards responsible tourism
• Since most of the treks to Bedni and beyond are largely unmonitored, it has led to irresponsible travel and the mountains are facing degradation in terms of garbage. Don’t just bring back your garbage but make it a point to pick the litter of the more careless travelers before you.
• On account of Bedni’s rich floral heritage, there has been illegal herbal extraction on a mass scale for commercial gain. Do not encourage removal of endemic herbs or flowers.
• The Himalayan Monal is a beautiful pheasant that is sometimes poached for its meat and its feathers, which are used as tufts for caps. However, the shimmering beauty of the highly endangered Monal is best appreciated in the wild. Respect the Himalayan fauna.


Pictures: Prithvi Gill

Natural & cultural heritage of North India (6-27 Feb, 2006)

By Andrew Major


There were 4 of us on this tour, all from New Jersey, U.S.A.: my wife and I & 2 friends. Most of it took place in Rajasthan. Our aim was to see the cultural highlights of this region and to see as much as possible of the wonders of the natural world that are left. We planned the itinerary together with Wild World India and all the logistics were arranged by them.

Our first stop was Agra where we visited the Agra Fort with an excellent guide who gave us as much information as we wanted about it's history. The next day, early in the morning we went to see the magnificent Taj Mahal. We have seen it before but we would not miss a chance to see it again. When one is in Agra it is a must to see one of the marble factories. The works of art that are produced there are truly amazing. On the way to Bharatpur we stopped at Fatehpur Sikri, Victory City, which we have seen before but our friends did not. It is a wonderful example of Mughal architecture, definitely worth a visit.



In the afternoon we arrived to the city of Bharatpur. Our destination was the famous bird sanctuary, Keoladeo National Park, a World Heritage Site. We stayed in a comfortable hotel close to the refuge and were taken to the park every day by rickshaws. Our local naturalist guide was Brijendra Singh, trained by the famous Salim Ali. Although his knowledge of English was somewhat limited, Brijendra knew everything about Keoladeo: the geology, the plants and of course the birds. He showed us a lot of birds we would have never found ourselves, such as the large-tailed nightjar, the brown hawk owl (both at close range) and several Indian coursers. We saw 5 species of owls and 6 species of eagles as well as a flock of 200-300 white pelicans. We enjoyed several boat rides and saw quite a few mammals while we were looking for birds: good numbers of spotted deer, nilgai, sambar, jackals, rhesus macaques, striped squirrels, even 3 jungle cats. Being of Rajput descent and taught us a great deal about Hindu customs. He was one of the best guides we ever had.

We took the train from Bharatpur to Sawai Madopur, near Ranthambhore National Park. Most people who come here have one aim in mind: to see a tiger. Even if we had not seen a tiger it would have been worth it because the park is scenic and has a large number of ungulates (spotted deer, sambar, nilgai, wild boar) which is the prerequisite for having tigers. We also saw a good number of birds. However, after a lot of driving we were rewarded with the sight of more than one tiger: a mother and her cubs.



We spent 3 nights at the Ranthambhore Bagh in a comfortable Swiss tent. At the end of our stay a minivan picked us up and we headed to Jaipur (the Pink City). There we checked in at the Raj Palace, formerly a haveli, belonging to Thakur Raj Singhji. The family can trace its lineage back to 1503. This was one of the highlights of the trip. The place was so artistically decorated it is worth to see a few pictures. One of the granddaughters, Jayendra spent a great deal of her time doing the renovations and furnishings.

In Jaipur we visited the Amber Fort. Elephants took us up to the fort. A local guide led us through this impressive monument and gave us a great deal of background information. Then we flew to Jodhpur. We stayed at the Balsamand Garden Retreat, a pleasant place with a large garden that had many Hanuman langurs and a colony of Indian flying foxes. There was a lake on the property which, at the time we were there had a large number of shorebirds and ducks. The garden might have qualified for a botanical garden, with many nice specimen trees that were labeled. From here we made a trip to the Mehrangarh Fort, another highlight of the trip. A proud Rajput, Himmat Singh was our guide. He worked at the Fort for the maharaja for 15 years, so he had a good knowledge of the place and its history. He also gave us a good insight into Rajput life. For us it was very valuable to have this contact with the local people. We found all the locals we met to be courteous and helpful. We spent a whole day at the Fort and its surroundings and could have spent even more time.

From Jodhpur a minibus took us to the little town of Phalodi. On the way we stopped at Osiyan to inspect the famous Jain temples. It seemed that we were to only tourists there at the time. Luckily a local young man spoke good enough English to explain the significance of the various statues and to instruct us on what we can and cannot do. There were several temples. We saw the Sun Temple (Suraya) and the Temple of Mahavira, the last prophet. The head Brahmin in the latter temple gave us a tour. We learned a little about the complexities of Hindu religion. We met school groups and several worshippers as we walked through. Later on, on the way back from Phalodi we saw more Jain temples at Ranakpur.



In the afternoon we arrived to Phalodi. The reason we wanted to come here was to see the feeding of the Demoiselle cranes in the village of Khichan, which is near Phalodi. Our accommodations at Lal Nivas Hotel were unique. The place was another heritage property with a lot of local flavor. The menu was strictly vegetarian with local recipes and was quite delicious. Mr. Sharma, the assistant manager was extremely helpful and introduced us to the elders at Khichan. They were the leaders of the community, who were also the ones responsible for the various charities, such as the crane feeding and the operation of the local refuge for homeless cattle. Cows have religious significance for Hindus and are not harmed. In fact, we have hardly seen any animals hit by car inspite of the fact that the roads are heavily populated with all kinds of domesticated animals.

Demoiselle cranes winter in many other places in Rajasthan but this normally vary bird can be seen at close range at the feeding station. We will never forget their sights and sounds as they flew over us and around us. A family allowed us to view the birds from the roof of their house. This was fortunate, as we had an excellent vantage point; we could see the sand dunes where the cranes were resting and the courtyard where the feeding took place was directly below us.



The next stop was the city of Rohet. From here we made excursions to the countryside. To our relief, one morning Himmat Singh showed up again to take us to a Bishnoi village. The Bishnoi are noted for their reverence for nature and are the guardians of the local wildlife. In fact, the only place we saw blackbucks on this tour was on Bishnoi land. Our experience with the locals here was again very pleasant and educational. We were invited by a Bishnoi family to their farm to see how they live. We also visited various craftsmen at Kakani village. We learned for the first time the meaning of common Indian names (Kumar=potter, Patel=farmer, Dhari=weaver).



After Rohet a brief visit followed to Ranakpur to view the Jain temples, then to Udaipur, where we saw the Udaipur Palace. We flew from Udaipur to Delhi. There we met our (by now) familiar drivers with the minibus and headed directly to Corbett National Park. First we stayed outside the park at Vanghat, a camp established by Wild World India. It is a rustic place in a picturesque setting, on the bank of the Ramganga River. It was a little adventure getting there; our jeep forded the Ramganga River several times.We spent 3 nights there and really liked it. The birding was good in the forest as well along the river. The soaring mountain hawk eagle, grey-headed and Pallas's fish eagle became common sights.2 species of kingfishers, brown dipper, plumbeous and white-headed water redstarts, blue whistling thrushes, wagtails, lapwings made the river walk an enjoyable experience. We often saw the pugmarks of a tiger as we walked along the riverbank and once a goral (goat-antelope) crossed the river and disappeared on the steep mountainside. Once we watched a flock of scarlet minivets bathing in a small stream. Unforgettable. I almost forgot to mention the famous Mahseer fish, a type of barb, that was numerous in the Ramganga.

The final leg of our journey was Corbett National Park. The landscape was beautiful. This is tiger country. We saw pugmarks several times and had fleeting looks at 2 different tigers. There was plenty of potential prey: spotted deer, sambar, hog deer, wild boar. We saw a small family of elephants and a massive solitary bull that appeared to be in musth, judging by the draining temporal gland. Sighting the ancient gharial and the mugger crocodiles added to our reptile list. We looked for the diminutive small-clawed otters in vain. Although we did not come upon a tiger while on the elephant's back, it was a unique experience. Afterwards we fed her some 'jagaree' (sugarcane loaf). She thanked us by saluting with her trunk.

Remarkable birds for us were the black storks, crested tree swifts, the beautiful green bee-eaters, the handsome black francolin, not to mention the different nuthatches and woodpeckers and the impressive cinereous vulture. We definitely would have spent more time at Corbett if we had the time. We left with filled memory cards (in our cameras) and memories for a lifetime.

Photo credits: A. Major, A. Hoffenberg

Gujarat & Corbett Wildlife Tour (3/20 January, 2006)

~ Notes on Birds, Mammals and Reptiles
Joergen Bech & Jette Lyager (Copenhagen, Denmark)


Photo: Nanak Dhingra

This trip to Gujarat – and the Corbett-extension – became a unique experience, a trip of its own atmosphere. We were in India in 1971 – that is Jette and I, so this was a communion – a re-visit 35 years after! I was back in 1986, and shortly from Nepal also in 1998 – thus being familiar with most of the birdlife of Northern Inidia. So we turned to Gujarat. With its exquisite bird species, mammals, habitats, and culture. Being only the 2 of us it became in many ways a trans-cultural birding trip. This was due esp. to our driver and friend Laxman Shah, the ecologist and scientist Jugal Tiwari in Kutch, and Dhanraj Malik of the famous Camp Zainibad. Part of this synthesis was culture – from the reality of India 2006 to remote traditional villages and the highly active religious life 3000 stairs up in the Jain temples of Palitana.

Great Indian Bustard, Eastern Houbara, Painted Sandgrouse, Sykes´Nightjar, Hypocolius, Stoliczkas´s Busch-Chat, White-naped Tit, Grey-necked Bunting - all main targets found on our route through Gujarat. We only heard the Lions of Gir Forest but was more than compensated by a very good observation of Leopard. In Gujarat we followed the concept and contacts made by Uffe Gjøl Sørensen the year before. So – thanks to Uffe!

The Corbett-concept had one target: Finding Tiger! I had been in Corbett before (1986) – and also been through Ranthambhore and Chitwan, but always failed to see the world’s most superb animal. So through Vikram Singh (Wild World India) we had made a purposeful plan for this. We had one day in the foothills around Nainital (Rufous-bellied Woodpecker, Black-throated Accentor) just to breathe the atmosphere before entering Corbett.

Result: An incredible 7 Tigers on 4 observations and in paradise itself = Corbett. Mahender Singh was the master-guide, the Mahawat Farouck responsible for our first Tiger seen a few meters away from elephant back. Collateral birding produced Hodgson´s Bush-Chat and many well-known Corbett-species.

Itinerary

3 January
An interesting and most unexpected prologue to the trip occurred on the way from half a days’ work in Koege to Copenhagen. Denmark’s first Bimaculated Lark roosting at the shores of Stauning´s Island just north of Koege. Rushed out to fellow twitchers just in time to see the lark. One hour later in the taxi for the airport with Jette, told her about this good omen for the trip. Actually, we did not see Bimaculated Larks in Gujarat! Evening in London, night in the air heading for Bombay.

4 January
Arrival Bombay 12.00, later domestic flight to Ahmedabad. Revisited 34.5 years after! Picked up by Laxman – creating our Gujarat team of 3. Laxman drove off taking us into the chaos of traffic, dense population and pollution. We drove for Utelia arriving after dark. Suddenly here in the silence of the village, knocking on the gate of the old Utelia Castle, a bit damaged by the 2001-earthquake but still towering over the small village. Here we spent the night.

5 January
Utelia 8.00-10.00. Walked through the village to surrounding fields and riverine scrub. Large flocks of Short-toed Larks, 450 Roseate Starlings, and Sykes’ Warbler. Drive to Lothal (10.30), visiting the excavations of the 4500-year-old Harappan culture. The only Indian (lesser) Spotted Eagle found here close to the dirt road, some birds too in the scrubs including (Eastern) Orphean Warbler and another – Sykes.
Drove on heading for Velavadar with stops, esp. at a river creek with a lot of waterbirds and Greater Spotted Eagle. Generally the surrounding farmlands were industrial crops including a lot of cotton – the impact of this, including large-scale use of pesticides on birdlife was obvious. The huge flocks of birds we remembered from our early trips to India were gone. Black-winged Kites seemed to survive, but vultures were gone. Black Kites were few and only in towns.

Velavadar 14.30-18.15. A remnant of the vast grasslands of Gujarat. No overnight stay so we had limited time in this great habitat with flocks of Blackbucks scattered all over. Clouds of Short-toed Larks, some Rufous-tailed Larks and 2+2 of the endemic Sykes’ Crested Lark. Also 2 Long-billed Pipits. At least 700 Common Cranes esp. in the buffer-zone around the reserve and one beautiful Demoiselle Crane standing with 5 Black Storks. Time revealed this bird to be the only Demoiselle of the trip – not so easy to see in mid-winter in Gujarat. At dusk the famous movement of Harriers began. They swept in from all directions, passing by and settled in groups on roads and in the grass. We counted 340 birds – old male-ratio gave an estimate of Montague´s Harrier 220 and Pallid Harrier 120. A very spectacular sight! No doubt additional times can be well spent here – notabilities as Laggar Falcon and Lesser Florican are possible here, the latter requires a very good luck out of breeding season – a flock of wolves still survive. After dark Laxman took us to Palitana. Stayed at Hotel Sumero, basic but ok!

6 January
Palitana – Day of our “pilgrimage” to Shatrunjaya Hills 6.30-12.15 visiting the Jain temple-complex at the top. 3500 steps take you to the top – we made it in 1 hour, 10 min. Laxman preferred to stay at the bottom. It is a unique experience to join the pilgrims, the atmosphere very spiritual and very friendly. In addition hillside birding on the descent was quite good – i.e. a surprise – Sulphur-bellied Warbler and Rock Bush-Quail. In the meantime Jette got instructions of how to become a holy Jain woman. Anyway – we both decided to head on – a long drive for Gir. Still – where have all the birds gone? Sarus? The thousands of doves and starlings? Interestingly enough Black Ibis seems to be rather resistant to this environmental disaster. 7 birds. Arrived at Gir Birding Lodge at Sasan Gir (pre-booked). Services and arrangements were splendid, but the place lacked some atmosphere and it was the only place where our driver and friend Laxman did not have a good time.

7 January + 8 January
Gir Forest – a target-locality not reached in 1971 but this time we made it. The habitat is open dry woodland in the hills. This means quite a low diversity of birds but some specialities. And the potential two big cats!
We made game drives morning and afternoon/evening at both days. Guide and driver is compulsory. Also we were accompanied by Ganesh from the lodge, a Nepalese nature-guide working here because of the situation in Nepal. A very able man, despite only a short time in Gir. No doubt this is the place of the last Asiatic Lions. Classic male roars heard several times – a familiar sound from Africa. Lots of prints. But we never saw them – Lions are much more easy to watch on open African savannahs than in this more closed environment. One evening we caught up with a Leopard. A glorious big male, leisurely walking and roosting on the forest-floor, could be watched in 50 minutes before retreating. Leopard! Spots…

Birds: A good selection of raptors – first gyps as 4 Long-billed Vultures soared over hilltops. Also Short-toed, Tawny, Bonelli’s and Booted Eagles and White-eyed Buzzards. Dry habitat birds like Yellow-footed Pigeon, Marshall’s Iora and Thick-billed Flowerpecker. But the prize goes to Painted Sandgrouse seen 3 times as pairs on almost un-vegetated hills, very discreet and cryptic in pastel colours, but once found, allowed extremely close observations.

9 January
Drove off early morning from Gir heading for Kutch. Passed a lake NE of Gir with some waterbirds including Great Thick-Knee. It was a long and tough day on the Indian roads, Laxman had a hard time. In the afternoon we passed the bridge crossing the Greater Rann of Kutch, a huge tidal area with lagoons, sandbars etc. Only briefly birded as we expected more time at the return. Darkness came at Bhuj. We headed on eventually meeting Jugal Tiwari in the village Mota-Virani and were installed at Jugal’s place (Center of Desert and Ocean) just outside the village – staying here the next three nights. Facilities were fine to our needs, whether staying in the room or in the tents. Splendid Gujarati food! It was a very good experience to meet Jugal, his wife and son. Jugal is a vary competent person, scientifically trained, and extremely committed to the nature and wildlife of Kutch and has a hard job standing against the major threats to this unique habitat, especially the charcoal industry.

10 January
A 10 km drive before dawn took us to Fulay – a small traditional village – and the huge Bani Grasslands. We were at the traditional Hypocolius-roost, but the place had recently been seriously disturbed so nerves were on the edge! The early yellowish light seeped in on the plains. Dark spots scattered in the few acacias took the forms of Steppe Eagles as the light progressed, flocks of Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse rushed over.

At the roost nothing happened – bulbuls only. At 8.00 we were sure that the roost had moved! At last a single male Hypocolius popped up to its position in the top of an acacia. A legend of the deserts – and taxonomy! Great relief! A single Cream-coloured Courser found by Jette. The grassland – endless flats, numerous rodents and the predators: Steppe Eagles and some Long-legged Buzzards. We stayed some hours in Fulay – they had beautiful carpets for sale. Returned to the camp at 12.00.

In the afternoon a long walk in the hills behind Mota-Virani birding with Jugal. Marshalls Iora, Spotted Owlet and good numbers of Wheatears (Desert and Variable). But the main target was Jugal’s bird – the endemic and endangered White-naped Tit. At last a small mixed flock were located dominated by Small Minivet. And the tits! 2 nice White-naped Tits that could be followed the next ½ hour moving restlessly between groups of acacias controlling the pods for infestations with larvae.

11 January
Jugal had received a new guest – a wealthy man from Bombay. He wants to see the GIB! (Great Indian Bustard). So based a trip to the Lala area about 100 km from the camp, arriving at about 8.30. It is a huge area of dried up grassland, the bustards can be quite difficult (Jugal drew a blank on his last trip), so we had to work hard. Indian Coursers were common here – about 30 birds readily seen. No bustards. At last I saw some birds flying away in the distant haze, barely visible, but just compatible with GIB. The man from Bombay believed that it had been a hallucination but Jugal decided to drive after the sight. 5 km off-road and later we located 5 male Great Indian Bustards, approached and observed the next ½ hours before the flock vanished into a small stand of acacias. Mission completed! From one endangered species to the next:

Stoliczka´s Bush-Chat found on the traditional spot along the gravel road to the watchtower of the Lala reserve. A female + a male, the latter giving “sub-puff-and-rolls” when disturbed, fine observations of this terrestrial Bush-chat. At about 12.00 we left Lala heading for the seacoast at Pingleshwar, having lunch at the small Wat and enjoying empty sandy beaches as far as we could see. Dolphins, Great Thick-Knee, Osprey. Later crossing cranefields (ab. 800 Common Cranes) ending at Poldaria about 16.00-17.30, an isolated farm in empty barren hill-country. We had a stop at a small stream which attracted birds in the otherwise dry country. It paid off! Grey-necked Bunting – 3, esp. a close nice male, the third “Ortolan”. The farm is a rehabilitation centre or hospice for ill or traumatized cattle, with a religious background. The carcasses are dumped on nearby hills creating one of the best places for vultures left with up to 400. In late evening we saw 145 vultures – White-backed Vultures and Eurasian Griffons (about 4:1) in competition with the all too numerous stray-dogs haunting India in the “post-vulture” era. Another good sighting was a flock of 6 Yellow-wattled Lapwings. Late return to the camp with Indian Nightjar and Barred Button-quail in the dusk.
In the evening 3 men from the village played traditional hymns – a small fire is on. January-nights are cold on the plains.

12 January
Nice morning-walk with Jugal before leaving at about 10.00. At Bhuj a single White-backed Vulture. Crossed back over the bridge of Greater Rann. Indian Sandlark, many Slender-billed Gulls, a single Mongolian Plover among common waders, flamingos, and western reef egrets. Zainabad reached at 15.00 - marked by 140 Roseate Starlings. Staying at Desert Camp (Dhanraj Malik). Malik’s place is an ornithologists paradise. Relaxed, nice, outstanding food! Birds and Khur at the campsite. The Maliks are local rulers – but also very dedicated birders and extremely helpful to assist your ornithological wishes!

13 January
Little Rann of Kutch 8.30-13.00 – long trip with D Malik. Rann means “the place where nothing grows”. Driving out on the vast empty pans leaves a most complete silence. Only the numerous castings of flamingo-feet in the dried up clay show that here were water during the monsoon. Vegetation is around the “islands” and around here is wildlife: Flocks of Khur – the wild ass – still survive here in good numbers. 2 Eastern Houbaras were located, a wintering and now rare species, it was a male and a female/immature male. Nearby Hoopoe-Larks and Desert Warbler! Crossing back we met camel-nomads (Jodh-people from Sind) and passed old villages with old gates and remnants of harbours from the time when the Rann was still passable by boat! Afternoon relaxed in the campsite. Booted Warbler, Orphean Warbler, Wryneck, Roseate Starling.

Dhanraj Malik expected a British bird group to come – they wanted only one bird: Sykes’ Nightjar. So we headed for Malik’s nightjar-fields to be absolutely sure that the species was available! At dusk some 300 Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse, then starting the exiting nightjar-scan on ploughed, unvegetated fields. Moon was clear, making it a bit difficult to locate and later fixate the birds in the spotlight. With progressing darkness we managed to find about 15 nightjars. 2 were caught and in the hand could be safely identified as a Sykes’ Nightjar male + female. Probably all these birds were Sykes’ - another 5 could be identified. Only 1 Indian Nightjar was seen – on the tarmac road when we returned. Yellow-wattled Lapwing and Short-eared Owl also seen scanning fields in the dark

14 January
Pronounced our day of wetlands of Zainabad. The Maliks had a family-day so we left the 3 of us + 2 of Malik’s people in the morning to bird lakes around Patdi. 3 lakes very close, 3 different habitats: The first a typical flamingo-flat and the 2500 Lesser Flamingos was like being in Rift Valley! 300 juveniles – so some breeding success. The next lake a deep, fish-rich lake – White Pelican 190 and Dalmatian Pelican 5.The third lake is close to the village Himmatbura, the lake inaccessible (loaded with ducks) but the broad surrounding ring-channel is very good: Among more common waterbirds we eventually found Sarus Crane - 2 adult with 1 young, and a Great Bittern standing in the edge of reeds at close range, later flying into better cover. The Bittern is a rare bird here – in fact a new record to Zainabad according to the Maliks! Detail of this bird given in the species list

Afternoon relaxed in the camp including a surprise Rufous-tailed Scrub-Robin – a bird expected to be in Africa at this time of the year. Left late afternoon reaching the Hotel Host Inn in Ahmedabad after dark. At the very moment we parked here Laxman had his first and only puncture on the trip! It was time to split the Gujarat team, Laxman had made a fantastic job and we had to say goodbye with some sadness. Laxman went home for Udaipur, Jette and I were ready for Delhi the next morning.

15 January
All day travelling – morning flight Ahmedabad-Delhi, arr. 10.00. This last extension of the trip was planned in much detail through Vikram Singh of Wild World India. Vikram knew that we were birders but had one dominant target: Finding Tiger in Corbett. We were met in the airport and drove north heading for the foothills. Got stuck in Haldwani (we did the same in 1971!) but eventually reached Nainital after dark.

16 January
One day in the foothills spent in the good forest around Killbury Road and Pangot, 7.00-18.30. Probably we arrived an hour too late for the optimal chance to see pheasants, but we had a nostalgic day in the foothills. It was a cold and cloudy day, too misty for distant snow-views and not the best for raptors, but many fine observations during the day. Got 2 fine woodpeckers, Himalayan and esp. the beautiful Rufous-bellied Woodpecker, some phylloscopus, Orange-flanked Bluetail, Rufous-naped Tit, Pink-browed Rose-finch but the best were the accentors – Black-throated Accentor (in company with Rufous-breasted Accentor) at the edge of a small terraced field. Celebrated with chapati, egg-curry and tea at a small place nearby.

17 January
Passed the gate of Corbett at about 10.00. Tiger fever relapsed – 20 years after my first visit to Corbett. The chance was in our hands – that is esp. our guide Mahendra – a shy man of the forests, but very competent! Slow drive with stops at the Ramganga river. Gharial crocodile, Black and Black-necked Storks, Pallas’ Fish-Eagle and a flock of elephants on the Dhikala grassland. Mahendra proposed that we should try on elephant in the evening – there had been a tiger sighting in the grassland early morning. So we left with Farouk – our Mahawat – not for the grassland but into deep forest following alarm-calls of Chital. Eventually Farouk succeeded in locating the Tiger and our first Tiger was a big male within 2 meters from the elephant, angry and roaring being disturbed in its own territory. Went back to Dhikala – exhausted and happy!

18 January
Corbett NP, jeep with Mahender Negi all day ending at dusk at the watchtower of Dhikala. This was the day where Mahendra showed his capacity! During the day an incredible 6 tigers were seen. Early morning, a female + 2 1-year young close to Dhikala. In the middle of the day a male and a female tiger along the road close to Sarabduli. In the evening a female scoped from the watchtower on the grass-plains. A gallery of birds through the day – esp. Hodgson’s Bush-Chat 3 males, 2 females at the far end of the Dhikala grassland (preferred long grass, but not elephant grass!).

19 January
Corbett NP half day, 6.30-15.00. Additional birding, Brown Fish-Owl but no Tawny. Drive to Delhi in the afternoon. Met with Vikram and his colleague Gaurav in the evening having dinner and Kingfishers, after 16 days non-alcoholic they certainly had an effect! Vikram combines business with adventure. They had heard about the record of 7 tigers within 24 hours, so they certainly organised this part of our trip to perfection!

20 January
Morning flight out of India for Europe. We had observed 224 species of birds in Gujarat – not too bad. After Corbett and Nainital the count raised to 315 after these few days in the north.

Tawang Trek (October – November, 2005)

Domi & Pierra (France)


Take the map by the top right corner, follow the narrow corridor between Nepal and Bhutan, turn right after Bangladesh, see the little appendix heading towards China and Myanmar, here you are! This is the "forgotten land", Arunachal Pradesh where sun rises at 5 in the mornings and bathes at 5 in the afternoon in an ocean of clouds before leaving for night, where people feel so intensely Indian after the Chinese aggression of 1962 and looks so intensely Chinese!

Culture, people, nature, everything there is absolutely intact to the point that children are genuinely scared when looking at our pale faces and blond hair. It takes time to win over this fear. The scenery is breath taking, people are warm, friendly, curious, amused at observing our exotic behaviour and attire, generous at sharing with us their tea plus salted yak butter (extremely appropriate to the climate and the needs of the local people, kind of immediate tommy repellant for western stomach).


We have been trekking about 6 to 8 hours a day at an average altitude of 3000/3800 mt, at very acceptable temperatures at daytime, a bit say chilly at night, our tent usually showing a thin lay of frost in the morning. We had the best cook of Arunachal Pradesh which doesn't mean he was good but he kept us alive. We got 3 young guides, all from the local tribes and as a result able to translate for us conversation with the villagers, but none of them being professional in any way. One of them lost his way 3 times which was OK since Piera and myself were following another one on the right track but it is quite backward to have to look after your own guide so that he doesn't get lost! They were the sweetest gentle young lads, looking penitent but laughing at all their mistakes. We tried to buy things from people having no sense of money exchange and who are still bartering yak milk for salt or maize for tea from a village to the other.

We provoked great laughing by pitching tents when they believe in solid bamboo houses. They sang and danced for us in the evenings when they came to our camp and asked in return for me to sing French songs which I did and surprisingly the sky didn't fell in pieces. They gave us wine, tea, good times and sometime even fleas which they call jumping monsters and which we got rid of only at the end of the trek. They had so many questions and so did we and I don't know who felt the most curious. They are far away in space and time from our present but they are now very close to me in memories.


These tribes we met were all Monpas and we saw so many Mr. and Mrs. Monpa with their colourful and elegant costume, their yak hair caps shaped in the fashion of the old English judges wigs, laughing loudly when on their way, passing by our tents, they saw our shaggy heads appearing in the early light out of the tent's zip.

We met the great Rinpoche in Tawang. He arrived and left at same time as we did and followed the same route. We happened to appear as the last jeep of his escort and were saluted with devotion as another pair of unpredictable lamas, along the road where villagers were burning cypress branches, holding huge embroidered flags and flowers.


We also cruised along the Brahmaputra river on a dull ship whose engine expired when we embarked, was repaired, and whose decayed old wooden hull was leaking and had to be bailed out permanently by a small fellow hidden in a vast towel. We spent 2 days and nights in a Vaishnavite monastery in Majuli Islands, being shepherded by a monk of the name of Dullal who offered to us hospitality, a samosha and some buffalo dahi and to whom I offered in return my old beloved blue shawl who had been with me for all previous trips to India and more specifically for all treks. We also wandered for half a day in the Mising village where we created the effect of a hurricane in the very peaceful, sort of beginnings of the world scenery. We saw monastic dances at night performed by young monks whose graceful beauty and made up faces, mesmerizing young village women, left us with a very ambiguous, disturbing, stunning emotion at the flickering feeble candle light. The very scarce audience was made of few of monks cuddling on their lap the child they were in charge of.

We finished in Kolkata the cheerful, gay, cultured, vibrant city were we again went over the flower market for hours amongst the crowd, trying to avoid these two legs huge bundles running on their own, and spent a Sunday afternoon in a big public garden where families were having picnics below the posters forbidding any food and beverages within the garden, all women in their most beautiful attires and everybody coming to speak with us.

We were pampered beyond any expectation by friends in Kolkatta and Delhi. We met, in Delhi, Tarun Tejpal, a generous, charming, simple and warm person who happens to be the outstanding author of one the best books of the last two decades.

We will be back next year, here or there, in an other corner of the map, visiting places which are still not on the maps.

Pictures: Vikram Singh
Copyright Wild World India 2006

North India Birding Tour (December 2004)

Chris & Jacky Mills


DAY ONE: 19th December 2004
Delhi - en route to Corbett NP 1330 - 1900
We arrived at Delhi airport at around 1:00pm, we were collected by Sumantha Ghosh of Wild World India and a driver. We undertook the colourful but rather arduous drive to Corbett NP - stopping off a couple of times the journey took around 6 hours. The first roadside birds we noted were HOOPOE, 10+BLACK-SHOULDERED KITE, 10+WHITE-BREASTED KINGFISHER, 20+ ROSE-RINGED PARAKEEET, 6 EGYPTIAN VULTURE, GREAT EGRET, 100'S CATTLE EGRET, 30+ BLACK DRONGO, 10+ PIED STARLING, 100'S BLACK KITES, 5+ LONG-TAILED SHRIKE, 6 EGYPTIAN VULTURE, INDIAN HOUSE CROW, BANK & COMMON MYNA.

We arrived at Camp Forktail around 6:30PM had an evening curry, bottle of beer and sat around the campfire listening to the alarm calls of Sambar; Spotted Deer. Deprived of sleep for the last 20 hours and starting to feel the pinch, we were tucked up in our tent by 930PM.

Overnight at Camp Forktail

DAY TWO: 20th December 2004
Camp Forktail 0730 – 1000, Bhakrakot 1000 – 1300, Woodland east of campsite 1500 - 1730
The next morning we awoke around 6:45 as it was getting light, and we had an hours birding in the camp prior to breakfast. The first birds just outside the tent were a small group of BLACK-CHINNED BABBLERS, moments later we were gasping at a superb HIMALAYAN RUBYTHROAT it was sat motionless in a torpid state no doubt an affect of the cold dawn air. A full circuit of the campsite produced yet more excitement, the pick of birds being; 1 WHITE-THROATED FANTAIL, 3 LINEATED BARBET, 2 BLUE-THROATED BARBET, 10 SCARLET MINIVET, 1 BAR-WINGED FLYCATCHER SHRIKE & 2 GIANT HORNBILLS. The commonest birds around the campsite were clearly the HIMALAYAN BULBUL, ORIENTAL WHITEYE & ASHY PRINIA with groups of seen in most of the areas.

Breakfast was shared with the resident GREY BUSHCHAT & JUNGLE BABBLERS, these hopped in and around the eating area.

After breakfast we decided to head north of the campsite, we walked up a path which passes through fields and the small village of Bhakrakhoot just beyond the village to the left the village fields border the edge of some secondary forest. The fields and village produced PALE MARTIN, 2 LONG-BILLED PIPIT, 10 GREY TREEPIE, ORIENTAL TRUTLE DOVE, 5+ LONG-TAILED SHRIKE, BLACK-CRESTED BULBUL 4+, CRESTED TREE SWIFT, RED-HEADED VULTURE, 6 YELLOW-BREASTED GREENFINCH. The woodland edge treated us some different species, 1 BLACK-LORED TIT, 2 GREY CAPPED PYGMY WOODPECKER, 2 LEMON RUMPED WARBELRS, 2 GREY HOODED WARBLERS, YELLOW-BELLIED FANTAIL,1 FULVOUS BREASTED WOODPECKER, 2 VELVET-FRONTED NUTHATCH, 1M SLATY BLUE FLYCATCHER, & 1 COMMON IORA.

We headed back for lunch around 1.30PM. After a lazy lunch, Kunwar our guide suggested we bird the woodland to the east of the campsite an area he was very familiar with. The woodland here is on a steep hillside that eventually leads down to a stream that eventually meets the road. Several new species were added including a couple of "must see" species; 2+WHITE-CRESTED LAUGHING THRUSH, 2 ASHY BULBUL, 3 GOLDEN SPECTACLED WARBLER, 1 KALIJ PHEASANT, 2 SPOTTED FORKTAIL, SEV BLUE WHISTLING THRUSH, and after many minutes of waiting 1 CHESTNUT-HEADED TESIA

Overnight at Camp Forktail


DAY THREE: 21st December 2004
Camp Forktail 0730 – 1000, Bhakrakhot & Forest to North 1000 – 1300, Woodland east of campsite 1500 - 1730

We had decided to take things easy in the first couple of days and to that effect we spent the morning birding similar areas to yesterday morning - but continued to add new species to the list.

Many of the species from yesterday were seen again - but additional species today were STREAK-THROATED WOODPECKER, SCALY BELLIED WOODPECKER, GREATER YELLOWNAPE, BLACK-WINGED CUCKOO SHRIKE,& ASIAN BARRED OWLET.

After a "brunch" we headed up North of the campsite again, but this time continued past the village, following the footpath we eventually reached a good area of secondary forest, with a fast running stream down a wooded hillside to our right.

This area yielded pulses of birds in tight feeding flocks, birds such as 5 GREY HOODED WARBLER, 1 STREAKED LAUGHING THRUSH, 2 BLUE WINGED MINLA, 20 GREY HEADED CANARY FLYCATCHER, 3 TICKELLS WARBLER, 1 RUSTY-CHEEKED SCIMITAR BABBLER, 3 CHESTNUT-BELLIED NUTHATCH, 2 WHITE-TAILED NUTHATCH, 3 VELVET-FRONTED NUTHATCH, 1 RUFOUS BELLIED EAGLE, 1 GREAT BARBET, 2 WHISKERED YUHINA, 2 SPOTTED FORKTAIL, 2 HUMES WARBLER, 1 RED-BILLED BLUE MAGPIE,& 20+ LEMON-RUMPED WARBLER.

We returned to camp had a late afternoon cup of tea, and walked the area east of the camp again, adding new species such as HIMALAYAN FLAMEBACK & RUFOUS-GORGETED FLYCATCHER. Kunwar showed us Leopard scats, and we found leaves still holding the animals urine from where the animal had been territory scent-marking. Following the tracks, we found an area of ground that had been disturbed, and lots of deer hair - Kunwar explained that this was clearly a kill from the previous evening.

Overnight at Camp Forktail


DAY FOUR: 22nd December 2004
Forktail - Kosi River 0700 – 1200, Machore Mountain road 1230 - 1600

The day started with some early excitement, Ghosh from Wild World India whom organised our trip had arrived just before light and as he approached the camp he had seen a wild Indian Elephant. Breakfast was temporarily abandoned as we searched the area.

Unfortunately despite hearing the movements of the elephant we were unable to see it - incredibly! We did add couple more birds to the list in the form of BLACK-HEADED ORIOLE & MAROON ORIOLE.

After breakfast we headed out in a Suzuki jeep with Ghosh our host and Kunwar our guide. Our first stop was the Kosi River area which produced 5 WHITE-CAPPED WATER REDSTART, 12 PLUMBEOUS WATER REDSTART, 1PR at NEST BROWN DIPPER, SPOTTED FORKTAIL, 2 WHITE-BROWED WAGTAIL, 1 RIVER LAPWING, 1 ROOSTING BROWN FISH OWL, 1PR at NEST PALLAS'S FISH EAGLE, 80 SLATY-HEADED PARAKEET, 1 GOLDEN LEAFBIRD, 20 SCARLET MINIVET, 10 COMMON WOODSHRIKE.

We continued our journey up into the mountains via the Machore mountain road, it was noticeable even since our last visit 3 years ago how few Vultures were present, but we did see 2 HIMLAYAN GRIFFON VULTURES & 13 EURASIAN GRIFFON VULTURES.

The views along this road towards the top are breathtaking, and the distant backdrop of the snow-capped Himalayas offers a fantastic perspective. We made several stops, the weather was cloudy and cool and this hampered our search for some of the altitude species such as accentors. However, we had a pleasant mix of birds including 1 LITTLE SWIFT, 2 RED-BILLED BLUE MAGPIE, 1 STEPPE EAGLE, 2 RUFOUS-BELLIED EAGLE, 6 COMMON ROSEFINCH, 1 JUNGLE OWLET, 1 ASHY DRONGO,4 BLUE-CAPPED REDSTART AND 2 BLUE BREASTED QUAIL.

Overnight at Camp Forktail


DAY FIVE: 23rd December 2004
Corbett NP Bijrani Gate 0700 - 1600

The next morning we breakfasted early and were heading through the Corbett National Park gates at 7am, our efforts today were mainly from the jeep in the Bijrani area.

There are rest areas in the park and here you can get out and wander to bird. Everyone's senses were heightened knowing this was our first really good chance of seeing TIGER, our previous visit to India, taking in Ranthambhore and Corbett had only resulted in near misses and lots of pugmarks.

The first birds were en-route to and at the main rest area just inside the park, best birds here were, 5 FULVOUS-BREASTED WOODPECKER, 2 LESSER YELLOWNAPE, 4 HIMLAYAN FLAMEBACK, 10+BLACK-RUMPED FLAMEBACK, 3 COPPERSMITH BARBET, 1 CRESTED KINGFISHER, 1 ALEXANDRINE PARAKEET,1 ASIAN BARRED OWLET, 3 JUNGLE OWLET, 1 CRESTED SERPENT EAGLE, 1 CHANGEABLE HAWK EAGLE, 2 GOLDEN FRONTED LEAFBIRD it was a cold morning and a torpid WRYNECK, allowed me to approach it down to 2.0m.

As we continued through the park several times we tracked fresh tiger pug marks, but still failed to see any tigers! The bird list continued with the pick of birds being 1 BAY-BACKED SHRIKE, 20+ BLACK-HEADED ORIOLE, 3 LESSER RACKET TAILED DRONGO, 1 SLATY BLUE FLYCATCHER, 5+ CHESTNUT BELLIED NUTCHATCH, 2 WHITE-TAILED NUTHATCH, 12+ VELVET FRONTED NUTHATCH, 2 OLIVE-BACKED PIPIT, 2 WHISKERED YUHINA, 1 WHITES THRUSH, 1 GREY FRANCOLIN (heard only) plus many of the commoner species.

Our mammal list got well under way with 30+ HANUMAN LANGUR, 50+ RHESUS MACAQUE, 4 WILD BOAR, 20+ MUNTJAC, 8+ SAMBAR DEER, 2+ PALM SQUIRREL, 50+ CHITAL and at least 4 different sets of tiger pugmarks - but no tiger.

Overnight at Camp Forktail


DAY SIX: 24th December 2004
Camp Forktail 0700 – 0900, Vanghat River Lodge 1000-1700

The short walk from the tent to the dining area produced close views of BLACK FRANCOLIN, and rather more impressive were a stunning RUFOUS BELLIED NILTAVA & 2 RUFOUS ORGETED FLYCATCHER.

After breakfast we were dropped off from the jeep and we then walked a 3 mile descent to our destination for this afternoon and evening at Bhanghat fishing Lodge. This lodge is owned by Ghosh of WildWorld India, it hosts a wonderful small stone cottage in the most fantastic setting of forested mountains and the fast running Ramganga river. The birding was just as good, 5 PLUM-HEADED PARAKEET, 1 LARGE TAILED NIGHTJAR, 1 RIVER LAPWING, 1 PALLAS'S FISH EAGLE, 2 ORIENTAL HONEY BUZZARD, 1 BLACK STORK, 2 GREEN MAGPIE, 2 WHITE BELLIED DRONGO, 1 BROWN DIPPER, 1 BLACK REDSTART, 6+ WHITE-CAPPED WATER REDSTART, 5+ PLUMBEOUS WATER REDSTART, 1 SPOTTED FORKTAIL, 2 CHESTNUT-BELLIED NUTHATCH, 4 VELVET FRONTED NUTHATCH, & 1 WALLCREEPER.

The river is famous for Mahseer, and Mahseer angling, encouraged by Ghosh to have a go I tried my luck for a few hours, but despite being able to see a shoal containing some huge fish in the lovely clear water - my luck was out. However, I was accompanied on the rocks just 20m away by a LITTLE FORKTAIL, the first of the trip.

As we walked out of the valley in the early afternoon we had 80 SLATY HEADED PARAKEET, 1 EMERALD DOVE, 1 EURASIAN GRIFFON VULTURE, 2 BLACK STORK, 4 NEPAL HOUSE MARTIN, 1 WHITE THROATED FANTAIL.

During the rest of the afternoon we explored 3 ravines just off the road that leads to Camp Forktail, all of these areas held reasonable numbers of birds and are well worth exploring, these areas produced 1 GREATER FLAMEBACK, 3 LESSER YELLOWNAPE, 4 HIMALAYAN FLAMEBACK, 1 SHIKRA, 2 GREEN MAGPIE, 2 GREY HEADED CANARY FLYCATCHER, RED-BILLED LEIOTHRIX, 2 MARRON ORIOLE, 1 YELLOW BREASTED FANTAIL, 5 BLUE-WINGED MINLA & 2 GREAT HORNBILL these being at the entrance to Camp Forktail.

Overnight at Vanghat River Lodge


DAY SEVEN: 26th December 2004
Lohachaur 0800 – 1530, Camp Forktail 1530- 1700

Today we set off for Lohachaur a buffer zone of the Corbett NP, this enabled us to bird on foot in primary forest, best birds were 1 RED JUNGLEFOWL, 4 KALIJ PHEASANT, 1 LESSER YELLOWNAPE, 1 GREATER YELLOWNAPE, 1 HIMALAYAN FLAMEBACK, 5 GREEN MAGPIE, 3 LONG TAILED MINIVET, 20+ SCARLET MINIVET, 8 BAR-WINGED FLYCATCHER SHRIKE, 3 YELLOW BELLIED FANTAIL, 2 WHITE BROWED FANTAIL, 5+ ASHY DRONGO, 15 BRONZED DRONGO, 2 RUFOUS GORGETED FLYCATCHER, 2 TAIGA FLYCATCHER, 3 RUFOUS BELLIED NILTAVA, 1 WHITE RUMPED SHAMA, 10 CHESTNUT BELLIED NUTHATCH, 2 WHITE TAILED NUTHATCH, 3+ VELVET FRONTED NUTHATCH, 5+ ASHY BULBUL, 10+ LEMON RUMPED WARBLER, 20 WHITE CRESTED LAUGHING THRUSH, 2 PUFF THROATED BABBLER, 1 MRS. GOULDS SUNBIRD, 4+ MAROON ORIOLE.

The track eventually reaches the Ramganga river and provides excellent panoramic views over the forest hills and resulted in additional species, overhead we noted 80 CRESTED TREE SWIFT, 10 ASIAN PALM SWIFT, 30 NEPAL HOUSE MARTIN, 10 EURASIAN GRIFFON VULTURE, 1 CRESTED SERPENT EAGLE, 1 ORIENTAL HONEY BUZZARD, 1 BONELLI'S EAGLE. The river added 2 CRESTED KINGFISHER, 2 RIVER LAPWING, 1 BLACK STORK, both species of WATER REDSTART, 1 LITTLE FORKTAIL.

We also had nice views of a small party of SMOOTH COATED OTTER, followed later by close up views of GOLDEN JACKAL, also the usual mix of CHITAL, SAMBAR, MUNTJAC, RHESUS MACAQUE & HANUMAN LANGUR.

The day ended with one more species for the trip being added, when a ROSE-BREASTED PARAKEET flew over the campsite.

Overnight at Camp Forktail

DAY EIGHT: 27th December 2004
Dhikala, Corbett NP 0630 - 1600

We left camp early this morning as we set off for Dhikala, an area in the innermost part of Corbett NP. We were to be based there for the next 4 days and had been told that this area had been extremely good for seeing Tiger - so hopes were running high.

We made several stops at appointed rest and viewing areas, the habitat was forest interspersed with boulder-strewn streams, and dried out riverbeds.

The pick of the birds during the morning were 3 BLUE THROATED BARBET, 2 COPPERSMITH BARBET, 4 CRESTED KINGFISHER,12 ALEXANDRINE PARAKEET, 2 JUNGLE OWLET, 1 LESSER FISH EAGLE, 1 PALLAS'S FISH EAGLE, 1 CINEREOUS VULTURE, 1 RED-HEADED VULTURE, 2 CRESTED SERPENT EAGLE, one of the most charismatic birds of the trip COLLARED FALCONET, & 1 PIED KINGFISHER that was lucky to survive the persistent dives and pursuit of a PEREGRINE, eventually submerging itself in the river to save itself.

The river and its banks also yielded MARSH CROCODILE (4-5M LONG) & a very large CATFISH.

As we headed into the forest areas stops produced 1 GREEN MAGPIE, 5 LONG TAILED MINIVET, 1 SLATY BACKED FLYCATCHER, 1 CHESTNUT HOODED TESIA, 20+ LEMON RUMPED WARBLER, 5 GREY HEADED WARBLER, 1 RED-WHISKERED BULBUL, 10 BLACK-CHINNED BABBLER, 3 BLUE WINGED MINLA, 1 WHITES THRUSH & the familiar mix of woodpeckers & nuthatches already seen.

As early afternoon approached, Kunwar & Ghosh led us to a 12m high watchtower that overlooked the river, the view was panoramic and the horizon distant. We settled down on top of the platform to enjoy our lunch, but before we had chance to take a second mouthful, Kunwar started a panic without even raising his binoculars he hissed " TIGER, TIGER crossing the river", there was 2 - a Tigress and a 9 month old cub. They were distant but through the scope we had terrific views, they crossed steadily the cub noticing our attentions, giving a couple of low calls - mother led the way seemingly unbothered by her cubs concerns. All the surrounding Chital & Sambar stood to attention. For 2-3 minutes we had watched them, it seemed it a lot longer then they were gone, disappearing into the vegetation.

After the excitement had died down and we had finished our lunch and Ghosh and Kunwar took us to an elephant station where they hoped we could take an elephant ride and catch up with the Tiger we had just seen. The elephant ride was an experience not to be missed, despite not relocating the tigers we had fantastic views of many of the river birds, the birds allowing much closer approach. The best birds were 1 STORK-BILLED KINGFISHER, 6 WHITE-BREASTED KINGFISHER, 4 CRESTED KINGFISHER, 2 PIED KINGFISHER, 6 RIVER LAPWING, 1 LITTLE HERON, 1 BLACK STORK,& 1 BLACK-NECKED STORK.

We were off the elephant and back in the jeep at around 4:30PM our next stop was Dhikala camp. But the day wasn't quite finished, as we crossed a dried river bed en-route, Kunwar glimpsed something in the late afternoon light - the driver quickly reversed, about 25m away stood a superb adult TIGRESS - she instinctively lowered herself tight to the ground, we drove up the hill and then cutting the engine rolled back down to see if she had moved - she had and we glimpsed her a couple of times in the vegetation- fantastic!!

We just made camp in time to avoid the late gate fine - but I would have happily have paid the fine.

Footnote: We returned to the dried riverbed the following night at the same time, and saw the same Tigress and briefly a male Tiger, but views were limited to "stripes and eyes in the vegetation".

Overnight at Dhikala


DAY NINE: 28th December 2004
Dhikala, Corbett NP 0730 - 1700

Breakfast was entertaining as from the restaurant window we watched 5 GOLDEN JACKALS playing, as 2 CHITAL kept a close eye. We then headed out in the jeep to the grassland areas that adjoining the Ramganga reservoir. The reservoir does not have a great reputation for wetland birds, but nevertheless with the surrounding grassland offers a very different habitat to the rest of the park, it is a vast area with many tracks - and we added several new species for the trip. Some of the birds on today's list were 5 INDIAN PEAFOWL, 5 BLACK FRANCOLIN, 3 GREAT EGRET, 2 INTERMEDIATE EGRET, 20+ LITTLE EGRET, 5+ GREY HERON, 30 RED-RUMPED SWALLOW, 1 BLUETHROAT, 3 HEN HARRIER, 2 WOOLLY NECKED STORK, TEAL, 1 GREENSHANK, 2 OSPREY, 30+ ZITTING CISTICOLA, 3 INDIAN POND HERON, 2 PALLAS'S FISH EAGLES, 5 RED WATTLED LAPWING, 2 CHANGEABLE HAWK EAGLE, 3 HOOPOE, 6 CINEREOUS VULTURE,2 LONG-BILLED VULTURE, 3 RED-HEADED VULTURE, 1 COLLARED FALCONET, 30 SLATY HEADED PARAKEET, 50+ CRESTED TREE SWIFT, 4 COMMON SNIPE, 1 LESSER COUCAL, 10+ INDIAN BUSHLARK, 1M HODGSONS BUSHCHAT (this rare and localised bird was an excellent find after checking hundreds of Stonechats!), 100+ STONECHAT, 2 STRIATED PRINIA, 30+ ASHY PRINIA, 1 LONG-BILLED PIPIT, & 3 TAWNY PIPIT.

Mammals were very numerous around the lake and surrounding habitat, 50+ CHITAL, 15+ SAMBAR, 50+ RHESUS MACAQUE, 50+ HANUMAN LANGUR, 8 GOLDEN JACKAL, & 20 WILD BOAR.

Back at camp we finished the day with a very obliging RED-BREASTED/TAIGA FLYCATCHER, an instructive bird that we eventually ascribed to TAIGA "albicilla".

Overnight at Dhikala


DAY TEN: 29th December 2004
Dhikala, Corbett NP 0730 - 1700

Our destination today was Kanda hill on the North side of the lake and then higher up to a mountain bungalow for lunch. As we crossed the Ramaganga river we had, the now expected mix of Storks, Egrets & Kingfishers.

A brief stop along scrub before the river produced a new trip bird, with a group of 10 YELLOW-EYED BABBLERS.

The birding got more challenging and exciting as we headed into hilly primary forest, 2 stops produced a good number of birds, but nothing new - then came the call of a much sought after species, minutes passed, and all of a sudden they were in the tree tops above us, not just one but a flock of about 8-9 LONG-TAILED BROADBILLS absolutely stunning. A supporting cast of 4 GREY-CAPPED PYGMY WOODPECKER, 1 LESSER YELLOWNAPE, 6 GREY HEADED WOODPECKER, 2 GREATER FLAMEBACK, 4 SCARLET MINIVET, 10 YELLOW-BELLIED FANTAIL, 2 WHITE THROATED FANTAIL, 1 RUFOUS BELLIED NILTAVA, 5 CHESTNUT BELLIED NUTHATCH, 2 WHITE TAILED NUTHATCH, 2 VELVET FRONTED NUTHATCH, BAR-TAILED TREECREEPER, 5 BLACK-LORED TIT, 2 BLACK THROATED TIT, 10 LEMON RUMPED WARBLER, 1 GREENISH WARBLER & 1 GREY HEADED WARBLER.

We continued upwards in the fine forest habitat, our journey came to an abrupt end when we reached a 30m tree that had recently fallen - straight across the track. We stopped for lunch watching some local village women collecting cattle fodder by climbing the trees and stripping leaves, our guide informed these people had walked 8 miles from their village to collect the correct leaves - and would be returning with their load in the afternoon.

Shortly after lunch we started to head back, a stop produced a another nice mixed flock, but also several WHITE-BROWED SHRIKE BABBLER and a few minutes later a lone superb male CHESTNUT-BELLIED ROCK THRUSH was another addition to the trip list.

We headed down towards the shoreline of the Ramganga reservoir this time viewing the Reservoir from its northern shoreline. Overhead we picked out a single ALPINE SWIFT, amongst a mass of CRESTED TREESWIFT. A line of guano covered trees held roosting GREAT CORMORANTS, and an inlet a single GOOSANDER. The real highlight from here, although distant was a wild group of 20 INDIAN ELEPHANT.

Overnight at Dhikala


DAY ELEVEN: 30th December 2004
Dhikala, Corbett NP 0730 - 1500

After breakfast (a non-event for me after a night of visiting the loo!) we got to grips with both SCALY BREASTED MUNIA & RED AVADAVAT, we had probably seen both in preceding days but on most occasions they would explode from the grass verge and disappear into the distance!

We then slowly headed back from Dhikala towards the main entrance of the NP, making several stops we saw a varied mix of similar birds and mammals as per the previous 3 days. We did however witness a SHIKRA kill and then pluck a Yellownape, with a GREEN MAGPIE in close attendance awaiting its turn.

The other species of note today were a RUSTY-CHEEKED SCIMITAR BABBLER, which after much patience eventually gave reasonable views, 1 BLUE-WINGED MINLA & 3 BLACK BULBUL.

We were greeted back at Forktail by our hosts and we spent a wonderful evening around the campfire relaying our tales of 5 Tigers, and a wonderful array of birds.

Overnight at Camp Forktail


DAY TWELVE: 31ST December 2004
Camp Forktail 0800 – 1130, Vanghat River Lodge 1300 - 1700

Our last day before heading back to Delhi, we decided on some casual birding around Forktail in the morning and then returning to Vanghat River Lodge for a quiet New Years Eve.

The HIMALAYAN RUBYTHROAT was again showing well before breakfast, the usual mix of birds were around the camp, also 1 GOLDEN FRONTED LEAFBIRD, plus a flock of 25+LINEATED & 6 BLUE THROATED BARBET passed straight through the campsite.

On the fields between camp and the village 20 YELLOW-BREASTED GREENFINCH were feeding and a flock of 30 BLACK-CRESTED BULBUL passed through.

We said our farewells to all of the wonderful staff at Camp Forktail Creek and headed off to Gharat River Lodge. We walked in via the big modern suspension bridge this time, the dried out area in front of the bridge immediately produced two new species fro the trip, 1M DESERT WHEATEAR & 1 VARIABLE WHEATEAR.

The day finished watching 1 LITTLE FORKTAIL, 1 WALLCREEPER, WATER REDSTARTS and the graceful hawking overhead of 30 BRONZED DRONGO.

Overnight at Vanghat River Lodge


DAY THIRTEEN: 16th April 2004
En route to Delhi

We said fond farewells to both Ghosh and Kunwar whom had not just been great guides, but also wonderful company. Traveled back to Delhi- noted the usual masses of BLACK KITES & EGRETS ETC

Overnight at Hotel Connaught, Delhi - flew back to UK next morning.

Pictures: Chris Mills

North by North East - Wildlife & Culture Tour (March, 2005)

Jim Walters & Chris Kenty
Philadelphia

This report includes Live Journal entries written during our journey then amended a little bit upon return. Then we have added assessment comments in italics underneath various journal entries. The last section is a chart of all the bird species we saw.



Thursday, March 3rd, 2005
"This Time Next Week ...."
Well, it's just 4 days till we leave for India -- our trip of a lifetime. We're into the "...this time next week ...." phase. In fact, this time next week we'll have been in Kalimpong for a day or two already and on this day (a week from now) we'll be birding in and around Lava. And a week from tomorrow we'll take a day to make our way to Darjeeling, doing some birding. We'll set out in the early morning to Durpin Dara. From there you can get a breathtaking view of the confluence of the River Teesta and Rangeet with the Kanchenjunga range as the backdrop. We'll also visit the Durpin Goompa, one of the oldest Bhutanese Buddhist monasteries of Kalimpong. And we'll end up in Darjeeling, staying at the Orchid Lodge (check it out on the web -- fantastic!). The next morning will be a real highlight for me, though. We get up really early -- like 4am -- and make our way to the peak of Tiger Hill (about 8-9000 feet) and at dawn, if it's clear, we can see the Everest massif and even Mt. Everest itself. Can't wait!!

Yes, we're excited. But I think we're experiencing a whole basket of emotions about our impending trip -- excitement and anticipation ... anxiety about the pace and rigor .... some worry about getting sick ... trepidation about how we'll react --or at least how I'll react -- to the crush of crowds and the poverty and the dirt and the bugs and the heat and the dust and .... I could go on. And that's true not just of me, who's never been there before, but even somewhat of Chris, who lived there for awhile. Let's just say that what might've been easy to adjust to when you're 20 or 30 might be more challenging when you're 50+. But I'm sure that once we're into it, we're going to have an extraordinarily great time. And, of course, we get to see our daughter, Ellie, again and in such exotic circumstances!

So, a couple hectic days, yet, of last minute things and loose ends: finalizing the house/cat-sitter arrangements, getting some traveler's checks and trying to figure out how to drop photos onto this webjournal. I can't promise that last one, but I do hope to.

Saturday, March 5th, 2005
And Away We Go!
It's been a whirlwind of a last stateside day. House/Cat sitters have been briefed and the house has been made ready for them. Personal "bon voyages" have been said. One last "pre-flight" checklist of all the impedimenta of travel to malaria-ridden tropics: quick dry socks and undies, new "buzz off" shirts and pants (repellant woven right into the fabric -- great for mosquito-magnets like Jim!) and all the lotions and potions that we 50+ modern Americans would never travel without -- even a tiny, palm-sized hair dryer. But above all: mustn't forget to start the Malarone anti-malarial tablets tomorrow -- and every day thereafter. The price we pay just to see some Chestnut crowned Laughingthrushes, Golden Fulvettas and Black-throated Parrotbills. Oh, and Ellie, of course.

At any rate, it's been an exhausting day. And maybe that's a good way to get any vacation launched. It makes the getting away all the more welcome. Especially as we're flying round-trip business class! This is a good time to thank our good friends Julie and Jeffrey for the brilliant advice they gave. We were all set to cash in a zillion frequent flyer miles to get round trip coach tickets. Flying free would be nice, after all. But J & J had the wonderfully better idea of buying the cheapest coach tickets we could afford and using the miles for the upgrade instead. Brilliant!

So, thanks to you, J & J, and all our friends who've given us a nice send off. We'll toast you all in a day or so with cups of sweet lassi and masala chai -- the real thing.We look forward to staying in touch through your comments when we can get to a net cafe. Namaste! Jim & Chris

Friday, March 11th, 2005
"We're not in Kansas anymore, Toto!" -- We're not even in Mumbai
It might've been stepping out of Mumbai International into a dirt parking lot. Or maybe it was being ushered by footmen in Maharaja livery into our palatial hotel past the emaciated dog lapping up puddle-water just outside the gates. Or maybe it was the sounds -- the sounds -- of the honking horns of a million cars, lorries and motor-rickshaws, or the constant Bollywood disco music mingling with the melodies of sitars. But something -- no everything -- tells you you're way far from home.

We arrived at our Mumbai hotel, bleary-eyed around 2am and collapsed into a short but welcome sleep before what turned out to be a 13 hour touring day. Here are my highlights of Mumbai:

First and foremost, smiling people: the loquacious Puja, our guide, and her beautiful smile ... Uma, our driver and his laughing smile ... teenage Krisha and his pals at Elephanta who were thrilled to meet real Americans ... the Delhi family of 5 on the boat back from Elephanta who turned out to have lived in Detroit for 4 years ... the sadhu, nonchalanting his way past me on the street, his dusty body wearing nothing by a loin cloth, string-necklaces and prayer beads. Still, we're the curiosities here.

Next, the temples. I like them. I thought at first at how different it is from home -- temples everywhere. Now I think that maybe there's no more than we have churches, just more lively and engaged with Indians' everyday lives -- lives lived out in the open. We visited two on the very first day. The first was a Jain temple. The Jains hold all life so sacred that some wear a mask on their face so as not to even accidentally injest an insect or a microbe, and they might even sweep the street in front of them as they walk to avoid even accidentally stepping on a bug. I foolishly resented having to remove my shoes before entering because I didn't want to dirty my socks. Then I thought, "This is a Jain temple -- maybe the cleanest place on the planet!"

The other temple was the very reason for our visiting Mumbai -- the ancient cave temple of Elephanta, immense, 12-chambered and carved out of -- or would it be into? -- solid rock. It takes an hour by boat to get there. This day being the feast of Shiva Ratri (the night time feast of Shiva) boats going to the island were stuffed to gunwales and we were swept to the cave-temple by a rising tide of thousands of worshipping and holidaying Hindus. The cave-chambers lead you to its two holy of holies: one, the shiva lingum, a small chamber holding the phallus symbol of Shiva's creation-power, lit by puja lamps, swathed in incense and bathed in milk offerings; the other, an immense statue of Lord Shiva, some 15-20 feet high, with worshipers clambering on and around it, annointing it and dressing it with marigolds! Church at home is never like this!

Sandwiched between these temple experiences were visits to Gandhi's home and the museum of antiquities. Profound experiences in their own right.The next morning were were off on a plane to Bagdogra and on a 4 hour ride by jeep to the hill station of Kalimpong (up where Nepal, Bhutan and Sikkim all come together). The drive starts through some of the lushest lowland tea gardens (plantations). The air is filled with a light smoke that took me back to Ireland's west country and the smell of burning peat -- a vegetal smell with a slight oiliness. I learned that here it's from the burning off of the grass thatch so that the ground will be ready for the monsoon-time sprouting. Then at breakneck speeds the driver zig-zags along roads teeming with cycles, cabs, bicycle rickshaws, cows, transport lorries, water buffalo and military vehicles, first through Siliguri (the black market capital of northeast India) and then finally climbs the 4500 feet to Kalimpong. After a few final turns, dips and climbs, we arrived at our lodging for the next few days, the Orchid Retreat, which could just be the Garden of Eden.

More on Kalimpong and our adventures here next time. Meanwhile, Chris and I are feeling well, though still a bit sleep deprived, and are having a marvelous time meeting new people who are becoming new friends. Plus, in the last two days we've added about 50 new birds to our life list. Could hardly be better! All the best, Jim

Comments in retrospect: We would have felt more secure in our arrival if we had known exactly how the first airport/ hotel pickup would work. We did feel a bit nervous while wearily waiting for baggage in Mumbai, because we noticed a few men with signs meeting some passengers inside, but none for us. We hoped that more cars would be outside waiting, and of course ours – clearly marked Le Meridien for James Walters – was right outside. After that we knew Wild World India was all for real and not just some internet mirage. Strange what you think after 24 hours flying! We really liked Le Meridien, both at the beginning and at the end. It was great to be so close to the hotel when we were very exhausted. And this hotel is very warm and friendly, with wonderful food and a very nice business center. Beautiful, comfortable rooms as well. The 13-hour first day tour was a bit much, but we enjoyed each and every part.

Saturday, March 12th, 2005
Kalimpong to Darjeeling -- Updated Entry
We have just arrived in the very high hill town of Darjeeling - 6800 feet - just at the base of the Himalayas. Kanchenzonga, the third highest peak in the world - seems just outside our hotel window. It is beyond awesome - there are no words grand enough to describe it. Still in Kalimpong, we got up at dawn to race up to the highest point in the area – to a place called Deolo-- to see the sun rise over the snow-capped Himalayan peaks. From where we were standing, we were looking in Bhutan, Sikkim and Nepal. Only pictures could possibly hope to describe the majesty. We were thinking how incredibly lucky to see both the Grand Canyon's depth and the Himalayan heights within one year.

Kalimpong itself is a large town spread out along, and clinging to, the steep sides of the northwest Bengal hills. It’s very obviously Buddhist, but has a surprising Catholic presence. (There's even a Jesuit novitiate. What's that about?) One of the first things you notice is the stream of crisply uniformed school kids making their long walks home downhill from the town -- uphill in the morning. West Bengal has one of the highest literacy rates in India. Kalimpong is a bit grimy but a fascinating little town with multiple Bhutanese monasteries (we had a long talk with the Lama, who invited us to tea, -- really to talk with Raj Basu) and Hindu temples. It is full of flowers - the garden capital of India and exporters to the world of orchids, cacti, palms and other beautiful plants. We were staying at the lovely Orchid Retreat, not only a lovely sloped garden but operated by the very wonderful Pradhan family, with two beautiful young daughters. The owner, Ganesh Pradhan, is one of the most urbane and charming Indian I have ever met; we and Raj enjoyed great conversations over dinner long into each evening we were there. He is a very well known Himalayan orchid expert.

We did a lot of birding right on the property, wandering up and down the terraces and through some of the nearby gardens, both the shacks and the lovely Bhutanese homes - all full of flowering primroses and amaryllis. We traveled most of the day yesterday out to forests, some virgin forests just full of birds. It was cloudy, so identifications were difficult, even for the experienced naturalist, the marvelous Raj Basu, who is our guide. But we have seen well over 50 new species, some in glorious colors. The plant life was just as interesting; we saw lots of orchids growing high up on the trees, and hiked over very rickety bridges. Glad Ellie wasn't with us - just don't ask, El!! You would have freaked. We hiked many hours during the day. One of the highlights was a visit to the very high village of Rishyap, where we had lunch in a tourist lodge. Our guide, Raj, runs a company that works to develop ecotourism and home hospitality in Indian villages. They support the villagers to build accommodations for tourists and to encourage interaction between visitors and villagers, each learning from the other while bringing income into the village.

This village of Rishyap has a 180 degree panoramic view of the Himalayan peaks. Unfortunately, clouds were obscuring the high peaks this day, but we enjoyed the view of green mountains all around. We played with the owner's little son, Anand, about the same age as our neighbor Willie. Many of the villagers now have much better homes with small guest rooms, and the village was electrified just last year. The whole village knows and loves Raj, and greeted him and us very warmly. That has been the hallmark of our trip - meeting and talking with so many wonderful people. This morning we met a couple up on the high Deolo Lodge hill, he a Sherpa rock musician and she from a far northeastern area of India almost to Burma. They run a music school in Delhi. We talked for quite awhile, then we ran into them in this cafe later this afternoon in Darjeeling and had fun together again. We were exhausted by yesterday late afternoon, after a walk on the ancient mule path that led from India up to Tibet. After a lovely dinner of Momo and more conversation, we retired and got up once again in Paradise. We had to bid goodbye to the Orchid Retreat and begin the very hilly and interesting ride up to Darjeeling. So now we are in chilly Darjeeling for a few days in the Cedar Inn, and hope for a hot shower tonight! Tomorrow, up before dawn to race up to Tiger Hill, hoping to see Everest if it's clear. What an amazing adventure. Chris & Jim

Comments: We really did love the Orchid Lodge, and would recommend it for any nature lovers, or people lovers! The rooms are simple but very clean and nice, and the service and atmosphere are sublime. Ganesh and Honey Pradhan are just fabulous hosts. And you get to see lots of parakeets and the Verditer Flycatchers. We had a great time visiting Lama Kunzong of the Bhutanese Monastery. We know we were incidental to the meeting; it was karma that Raj and the Lama got together in their love of wildlife.

Tuesday, March 15th, 2005
From Darjeeling Back to Varanasi -- Tea, Mountains and Temples
It has been 24 years since I was last here, and it is amazing to be here. It's certainly a huge thrill to see Ellie here - she came strolling over to our beautiful hotel a short time after the long, crazy taxi ride here. She looks wonderful and is doing very, very well. She was wearing a dark blue punjabi top and white leggings, hair in a ponytail and tanned face. We're all together in the internet cafe right between her house and our great little hotel. The hotel Ganges View is right near the river with a lovely balcony that overlooks the river and the whole scene below - water buffalo, many carts selling snacks and candles, a dog and puppies, and the row of ghats (landings) stretching out on the left. It's hot but not real hot, and the evening has been cool and pretty comfortable, still a major change from the chilly northeast. We sat on the balcony watching a very dramatic puja to Mother Ganges (prayer) performance by three priests with candle lighted triangles and meditation music. Very theatrical.

We had a great time in Darjeeling, so good that we all thought we had one more day. I'll let Jim tell you more, but we got up at 4:30 to race up to Tiger Hill to see the sunrise on Kanchenzonga. There were literally hundreds of people there, having come in dozens of taxis - it was a whole flash mob that then disappeared as rapidly as it had materialized. We stuck around for awhile watching the birds and visiting a really interesting Shiva temple complex. It was really, really cold - in the 30's. Jim and I had every scrap of clothing on that we had, and we were okay. Most of the Indian tourists had on sandals! Go figure. It was magnificent - only the pictures can hope to describe the grandeur. A bit later in the day, Jim came down with a cold and has felt rather lousy since.

It was a long, windy, incredibly trafficky ride down the hill back to Bagdogra Airport, where we had to sadly bid adieu to our wonderful guide, naturalist, guru and now friend, Raj Basu. We flew first into Guwhati, Assam, which was a really neat surpise. Got good views of the Brahmaputra, which Raj had just been talking about. Then on to Delhi; as the plane reached its flying altitude, we could see the whole Himalaya spread out beside us, from Bhutan nearly to Kashmir, including Everest. It looked like it was suspended in the heavens, a breathtaking sight, a dream. Our night in Delhi was odd, because Jim felt crappy, and Delhi is so very crowded. I did have a lovely breakfast with Dipendra from Wild World India, after I convinced him to join me in Jim’s absence. But early this morning we flew to Varanasi and here we are in this amazing place, dusty and hot, full of cycle rickshaws, cows, pigs, holy men, tourists, and lots of birds, and of course, Ellie!!

Chris says it's my turn to add some comments about Darjeeling. When I was a kid, Darjeeling was the place -- or at least the name of the place -- that most symbolized the exotic and far away. Well, the real thing certainly lives up to that. You get there over some of the scariest roads through the loveliest of hills. The roads. Do you remember the "wild mouse" amusement ride. Well, the road to Darjeeling is like riding the wild mouse for 3-4 hours straight! Chris has mentioned our guide, Mr. Raj Basu, but this is my chance to give tribute to Anup, who has to be about the best driver in the world, and strong, too, because our jeep didn't have power steering. Anyway, from Kalimpong at about 3500 feet, you climb to Darjeeling at 7000 feet. As you climb higher you begin to see extensive hill-side tea gardens (plantations). This is the home of the famous, and so very delicious, Darjeeling teas. But to say hillsides is really a misnomer; they really grown more on cliff sides! The slope has to be at least 55-60 degrees! Pickers make their way through the low bushes -- I think they actually use the bushes themselves for some support -- and clip off just the top leaves. Backbreaking and, I think very scary, work. I'll never take a cup of tea for granted again.

Then, finally, you reach Darjeeling. This odd Victorian British hill town hacked into the side of hills just as steep. Very curious place. Exotic alright, but not very attractive. It's filled with hawkers and hippies, and is positively filthy. I mean all Indian towns and cities are grimy and dusty, but Darjeeling is really bad, all the worse for the tight streets. Built on those steep slopes, the town can't exactly have wide boulevards.

But what is does have is vistas. India's tallest mountain is Mt. Kanchenzonga, only about 800 feet shorter than Everest. Massive. Well, our hotel, perched at the heights of the town, was designed to give every room a full on view of the mountain. What a way to start your day, as you watch dawn light up this mountain so holy to the Sikkimese. But seeing Kanchenzonga wasn't my high point. We saw Everest! And not just from the plane, as Chris mentioned. The morning we got to the top of Tiger Hill was so clear -- unusually so for this time of the year -- that off in the distance the rising sun threw a spotlight on four the mountains of the Everst massif: Lhotse, Makalu, and Everest itself! For me this was a dream come true.

Truth is, the chance to see that was the very reason we were in Darjeeling, even knowing that it was a long shot. This was one of my life dreams. I was filled with emotion and stood transfixed for the longest time. I can't explain why, but it was important to me to see that mountain with my own two eyes, two feet planted firm on the ground. I had actually hoped to stand on Everest -- somewhere at the bottom, not the top. But political unrest in Nepal and my age conspire to make that unlikely. So, you might say that this was a 'settle for,' but I'll take it with gratitude.So, now we're in Varanasi. Stay tuned for our next installments. (By the way, we may not be able to include any photos because the connection speeds are very slow.)

Comments: Did you hear that the three of us thought we had yet another day in Darjeeling – until we realized otherwise on Sunday night? Perhaps we would have gone out into the countryside to do some serious birding on Sunday, rather than strolling around the town. But I guess we were tired of rushing about, and Jim wasn’t feeling so great, and we did want to see the town. So at this point, we didn’t maximize birding but had a lot of fun. As you know, we didn’t want exclusively birding; building up the biggest life list possible is not our thing. There was a huge blooming rhododendrun right below the Cedar Inn that was full of Sibias. And of course there was the flock of “finches” swirling around the garden of the Cedar Inn that Raj photographed the Monday we left – as you said, hard to identify!! The Cedar Inn was an amazingly anachronistic place, but what a view! We liked it once they got our hot water working. Our one wish is that we could have avoided the night in Delhi somehow. Perhaps we should have trained from NJP to Varanasi, then flown on to Agra? I know the flight schedules required this, but it was kind of tiring, and we really didn’t like the hotel in Delhi much – way too impersonal and formal for us. I know you tried to get us into another hotel. Of course, if we hadn’t gone to Delhi, I would have missed having breakfast with Dipen! And we wouldn’t have seen the Himalayas from the stratosphere. So good things almost always come. Dipen was very helpful in getting Jim to the pharmacy, too.

Friday, March 18th, 2005
Heat and dust -- Updated Entry
It has really gotten hot here in Varanasi - somewhere in the low 100's, and all the Dragons’ program kids are reeling as much as we are. Our hotel is beautiful, decorated with lots of interesting art, plants and sculptures. The balcony is beautiful, high up over the river, and our room (all decorated with peacocks) is right off this balcony. A great place to watch birds, too. We have breakfast on the balcony, and drinks late in the afternoon, but dinner has to be downstairs because of mosquitoes. We're just a couple of blocks from Ellie's program house - the internet cafe is just halfway between. We had dinner the first night with Ellie's host family - wonderful food cooked by Binno, the mom, in a very spare dining room, and they served us. Only her sister Mini sat down and talked with us. It's a very different style of entertaining. But she is a great cook. Ellie's windowless room is right next to the dining room. She has a bed and a metal cupboard to store clothes. She gets along really well with them, and they are obviously fond of her.

She and I went on a really fun silk shopping venture with Binno and Mini - to a dark little alleyway into a room covered in mattresses. The salesman was a very nice man with a greased pompadour and teeth reddened by betel nut from chewing pan. He flung out before us literally hundreds of scarves, starting with the most expensive gold and silk. Absolutely beautiful. Then he took Ellie and me on a tour of some of the weaving houses, where we watched old men weaving sarees by hand on large jacquard looms. This company also employs many embroiderers, who do beautiful hand work all over sarees. Some of the workers were children of the family (not sweatshops, but still..) Then back to the salesroom for tea and more displaying. Since we were with Binno, a regular customer, he couldn't overcharge me, but still she bargained him down more. I didn't have enough cash, so they said I could take my parcel and leave the money with Binno for pickup the next day! We rode back to their house on two cycle rickshaws. We had a lot of fun together talking and joking and looking over the beautiful fabrics. I know Ellie and I will always treasure this shopping trip.

Earlier that day we had the joy of watching Ellie's kathak dance class with her teacher, the lovely Rupali-ji. I tied on the bells around my ankles as she did, and I tried out some of the fancy footwork, but could only manage the first few sets before it got to be way too much. Ellie is really doing well with all the graceful hand movements and the footwork and spins. Her teacher says she is a natural. She will perform at the end and has to write a paper about it. We've had several meals at the program house, and have enjoyed all the kids and staff. We invited Ellie's French friend Charlotte for a special birthday celebration at our hotel, bought her a beer (which she can only have on non-program functions) and had dinner in our hotel dining room. We had brought her a few gifts that Ellie suggested. She enjoyed having parents for her birthday! Yesterday, Jim and went with one of Bantu's friends, Ditou, a young graduate student, on a dawn tour. We began with a long boatride along the Ganges, then toured some notable temples and finally ended at Banaras Hindi University, my old haunt. It was amazing to see the Ladies Internation Hostel Annexe again - mostly unchanged except for a plastic awning in the front and more planned rose gardens. I could remember well all the people who used to populate the house when we were there. As soon as Ellie's dance teacher started calling out all the syllables that are the dance steps, I could remember all the mornings we were awakened by the practice of the two Indonesian Kathak dancers who lived with us. A Hoopoe flew by just as Jim was taking my picture in front of the hostel, one of the birds I really wanted to see! The university is even more of a serene contrast to the rest of the very choked and noisy city than it was then. Varanasi is so very crowed and commercialized now. Jim is definitely having a hard time here - and I know it would take much longer than a few days to come to terms with this holy city. Ellie is doing marvelously well here, with all the great support and structure her program provides. She is in good hands. I hate to leave her. We get on the overnight train to Agra later this afternoon. I'm just getting over a bout of tummy troubles, so I missed the wonderful tabla (drumming) concert last night at the program house. But I'm better today. Chris

Jim's additions: It's true that I'm having a hard time with Varanasi. It started from the minute we drove into the town from the airport. We arrived at mid-day and traffic is a nightmare! Imagine yourself stepping into a huge mall on the day after Thanksgiving, caught in the crush of people. Now, put all those people on wheels -- two wheels, three wheels, four and six wheels. Very disconcerting. This is a very intense place. The oldest continually inhabited city on earth, Varanasi stretches itself lengthwise along the Ganges. Indian mythology says that the river sprouted from Shiva's head and that he placed the city here as his earthly home. So, Hindus believe that dying here is a shortcut to enlightenment, releasing you from further rounds of death and rebirth. Unlike any other city in India, Varanasi, in its entirety, is one big temple containing probably thousands of individual temples -- and they're everywhere. One wakes up to the sounds of priests leading morning puja. Then around 4pm comes the amplified sounds of the Gita being read. (I'm told that down here less than half of the population is literate, unlike west Bengal.) But nothing is more intense than the nightly Puja to Ganga Mataji that Chris described above. So, virtually all day you're surrounded by the crowds and sounds of people offering puja to their various gods. It's all very beautiful, but very intense.

But my western eyes can't completely close out the dirt and the general dishevelment of this city and how filthy the river is. I think to myself that, surely if there was one city that would be kept in gleaming condition, it would be this one, the home, the embodiment, of Shiva -- one vast temple to his presence. But no.

Then, as Chris said, we took that early morning boat ride on the Ganges. I don't remember Chris mentioning how touristy this ritual is. There were dozens of boats ferrying scores of tourists just like us. Maybe it's another thing that was different when she was here the first time, but it makes for something unsavory now. The Ganges is the locals' place for puja, bathing, clothes washing and burial. All of these things are taking place 20-30 yards from me and my prying eyes. From the look of it, we tourists are as much a part of the morning landscape as everything else. Still, it doesn't feel quite right to me.

Two highlights of that morning on the river were the burning ghats. There used to be two of them with open burning, but now it's true only of Manikarnika ghat, the second one you reach. At the first one, the open burning has been replaced by an electric crematorium. An unsightly, industrial waste-burning-looking thing, it sits high on a platform about 25 feet above the river line. Looks just like some trash disposal site -- just what this city needs, actually. But as a substitute for the burning ghats, it strikes me totally lacking any sense of dignity. Given the choice of wood or electric, I'd prefer the former. Maybe it's all academic anyway, because it's not working.

In Varanasi I most feel the relentless sun, heat, dust, noise and crush. But once again, the real charm of India -- Varanasi being no exception -- is its smiling and generous people: from the Ganga View hotel's owner who opened his family home as a hotel for discerning tourists and to the city's artists who can be found working here; to Ditou, our guide, a marvelously English-fluent fellow who hopes either to go on to University or to be an airline steward; to the "can-do" Bantu Pandey, the Dragons' local man, and clearly the man to see if you need to find anyone or anything; to the two professors at BHU, especially Dr. Rathore, who befriended us on the train and had us make sure that Ellie knew that he was now her benefactor in India and that she could call on him for any need.

As I said, it's an intense place and it generates powerfully conflicting feelings in me. On our first day here in Varanasi, we were met by an adopted-son, a Swiss guy named Beat Niederer, and we talked about what it took for him to fall in love with Varanasi (he's lived here for the past 15 years.) When he asked how long we were going to be here and answered "just 4 days," he said, "Ah, I hoped perhaps 6 months." I think it would take something like that for me to penetrate the surface of this place and bring my very disparate feelings about Varanasi into some harmony.

Comments: You can certainly recommend the Ganges View to anyone visiting Varanasi – what a fabulous hotel. All its rooms have aircon. But there seem to be some interior rooms without windows. We’d strongly recommend the upper level rooms with both aircon and windows. And great for birders, too. There are lots of Kingfishers fishing from the trees at balcony level! Of course it was especially good for us to be very near our daughter. It was good that we had a ride from the airport and to the train station pre-arranged by you. It was especially great to have your representative get us onto the train; even I had forgotten how incredibly confusing and crazy the Varanasi rail station is. As you can see, we had plenty of support in Varanasi.

Saturday, March 19th, 2005
The Taj Mahal and Rajasthan
We have made our way to the birding hotspot of Bharatpur - Keolodeo National Park. We arrived this afternoon, and after a much needed shower, we took a really nice and easy stroll in the park with a naturalist. We saw lots of things in a short time, including a 3-foot-long monitor lizard, a jungle cat, and lots of beautiful birds. It is a lovely place, and the sun was low, with a cooling breeze. Our guest house here is lovely, hidden in a garden off the main dusty road. We'll do some more early morning birding here - the water birds - then head down to the tiger preserve south of here. Fortunately, I got up feeling much better. Leaving Varanasi was not easy - we had a lovely tea time with Ellie, later joined by Charlotte, in a very lovely shop called Open Hand, then we took our taxi to the train station. It was really hot in Varanasi yesterday! So we were all sweaty when we got on the train. It took the air conditioning quite a while to kick in, and even still it was clammy all night. I had never ridden 2nd class trains before - only 3rd class - so I thought it would be a bit more grand than it was. Two wonderful professors from Banaras Hindu University joined us in our set of four, so we had quite a bit of time to talk with them. Jim got a really good taste of Indian trains, including: extended arguments about seats, the porter carrying both of our suitcases together on the top of his head, heat, confusion, fun conversation and laughter, and really hard beds. We did actually manage to sleep some (after the extended arguments) although it got freezing cold on my top bunk by the time the night was over. We awoke with the fear that we had missed the Agra station, but it was just that the train was late. So we sat around feeing really grungy and hungry until we came to Agra and were met by a representative from our tour company. We were whisked to a very fancy hotel, looking and feeling like we had slept in our clothes and not bathed, where we had a lovely breakfast. Then we were met by a wonderful guide Munju, who led us through the Taj Mahal. In fact, the Taj is much better maintained than when I saw it in 1968 - the gardens and the pools are lovely, and there have been many repairs to the inlaid marble surface of the building. It is just as magnificent as one dreams. I know Jim was greatly impressed. Last time I had no camera (having dropped it in a river) so I had to make up for that. We spent quite a nice time sitting in the shade watching various Indian families have their photos taken on a bench in front of the Taj. I couldn't resist snapping some shots of them as well. We then proceeded to a marble inlay factory to see how the descendants of the 17th century Taj marble workers still produce similar artistry. Of course the idea is to sell us some, but it was amazing to see the craftsmanship. We declined the offer to look at carpets, said goodbye to Munju, and drove on to Rajasthan. The Birder's Inn is very nice, with beautiful Rajasthani cotton bedspread and curtains. We headed immediately to the showers, and really enjoyed being clean after being on the train all night. We had a delicious lunch, then went out to the park. Jim is napping now, before dinner. The sun is setting red and dusty, flocks of parakeets are flying around and squawking along with peacocks crying across the road, and we are looking forward to tomorrow's adventures - and sleeping in a real, stable bed tonight. Hard to leave Ellie, but we know it will go fast for her. We are ourselves looking forward to coming home now. It's been a lot of traveling around, for sure. Chris

Comments: Loved the Birders’ Inn! We so wish we had carved out a few more days to stay there and hang around Keolodeo . The guesthouse and the garden are just lovely It was so peaceful in the park, and we know that Goverdhan Singh could have helped us see another hundred birds if we had taken the time. Of course your presence there made it extra special. This was the one place we really underestimated in our schedule – of course, you tried to tell us! We also heard over and over again that Bharatpur was lacking in water and not at its peak, but having never seen it before, we thought it was wonderful. We also enjoyed sitting with the artist-in-residence there, and talking with the owner. Hope you can help this place to be known to birders all over the world, and to food-lovers as well, because we thought the food was great.

Journey's end Mar 23rd
We are resting this afternoon in a plush hotel in Mumbai - where this all started - awaiting a midnight departure for the airport, and on the long trip home. And we are ready to come home! This was a very ambitious itinerary, and even with all the supports build in by Wild World India, we're still weary of moving from place to place. We have certainly seen a lot of birds and wildlife, and lots of culture. We loved Bharatpur, a beautiful, calm park accessibly only by cycle-rickshaw. The driver/guides are Sikhs, actually adopted Sikhs, who were turned out of Pakistan at partition, settled in the park before it was a national park, then were allowed to have the sinecure for traversing the park. Some Sikh visitors were highly offended by the Sikh rickshaw-wallas, because it is usually a job for much lower caste men. Our second visit was to the more watery areas, where we saw Sarus cranes, spoonbills, herons and egrets, and antelope herds, and many many song birds. The naturalist, Goverdhan Singh, was an incredible spotter, and very quick to find birds in his telescope at great distances.

We loved the Birder's Inn there, and the food was some of the best of all we had. The visit was also greatly enhanced by the arrival of the Wild World India trio to visit us, only one of whom we had met in Delhi. After conversing with them by e-mail for many months, it was truly a joy to spend time with them: Vikram Singh, Dipendra Gurung from a village near Darjeeling (we had met him in Delhi) and Gaurav Jain. They had in tow a British family (Norfolk), (Rob and Gaurav were friends from a past trip), who had arrived in Delhi only to find their hotel was under renovation. They had made the mistake of booking only the second part of their trip through Wild World India (who are impeccable in their arrangements). Vikram actually took them into his own home (the mom was sick, the 4-year-old son exhausted from the journey). So it was a big party there, and wonderful to get to know all of them. Hated to leave there, but we were taken to the evening train, and road with mostly sleeping passengers on the sleeping coach. We were disembarking at 10:45, so we didn't pull down our berths. This was my only trip on 1st class, and the only differences seemed to be the sumptuousness of the curtains you can pull around the berths (ours didn't have any on the 2nd class, though others did) the generally more clean car, and the presence of a western style toilet with toilet paper. The Birders’ Inn had provided us with a wonderful packed lunch, which we enjoyed on the train.

We arrived at the very interesting Ranthambore Bagh guesthouse around 11:00 PM and were shown to our tent. It was a great tent, large, and completely lined with beautiful yellow block printed Rajastani cotton. There was a bathroom tent attached, also with a cement floor, complete with shower and hot water some of the time. Quite comfortable; they light mosquito coils at night, so we were not bothered. We had a lovely cup of tea to calm down, then slept until we were awakened at 6:00 AM to meet our jeep for the first of two safaris we took that day. We rushed to get ready, but the power went out and we had not sorted out clothes the night before. But we joined a Swiss couple already in the jeep. We rode out at breakneck speed to pick up an older British couple at a brand new, extravagant hotel that looked as if it had been built by Donald Trump in Atlantic City. We later discovered that it was a copy of the architecture of Jaipur. Immediately upon entering the ancient park gate (all originally a fortified area) we saw the first of dozens of troops of langur monkeys that live there, along with thousands of wild peafowl, antelope, deer (small Spotted and large Sambar), wild boars, mongoose, and millions of birds. It's a rough ride, but an amazing area of jungles, banyan trees, some very desert-like with large cacti. It was great to be in the real thing - not Great Adventure! It was also very, very dusty; we were completely coated in dust when we returned four hours later for a quick shower and breakfast, to be followed by lunch one hour later to prepare for the afternoon safari.

Wednesday, March 23rd, 2005
Mumbai goodbye -- Up Early... Out Quick! -- Updated Entry
Ranthambore - our afternoon safari was even dustier and bouncier, and on neither did we see any tigers, though we saw plenty of tiger footprints in the dust. We were not nearly as tiger-centric as most people were, because we just loved being with the parakeets and treepies. At one point, treepies (big, red and black magpies) were eating cookies out of our hands. And love those langur monkeys. Why don't we have any non-human primates in the US?? Back to our tent for another shower, then a beautiful dinner outside in the garden by candlelight, with a little Rajastani music/dancing group. By then, the British family, Rob, Sarah and Rowan had arrived, so we had a nice time together there.

Again we were up before dawn to be driven to Jaipur. We had no idea, from our itinerary on paper, of the hard travel between Ranthambore and Jaipur. It's a harrowing 3+hours where you're constantly looking at something coming at you that can kill you. The one road is mostly one lane - with traffic coming in two directions - or completely unpaved in stretches. Traffic consists of camel carts mostly loaded with huge bags of chilis for market, the occasional elephant, big Tata trucks, cars, comical farm vehicles that are really just motors mounted on axles pulling wagons, actual tractors, and vast flocks of goats and camels. This did not make for speed. Our driver was not nearly as skilled as young Anup up in the northeast, so we really wondered if we would survive. Seatbelts - no!!! We were also not prepared for the beauty of the countryside, all fields of guava, tomatoes and hay. And the graceful Rajastani women carrying large water jugs or giant baskets on their heads - with their colorful scarves. I wanted to photograph every group. A very charming state. It looks a lot like the American southwest in some parts - red rock and soil, dry river beds. Imagine what the Dakota Badlands would be like if they were in Sedona. It's one of the areas that provided the red rock that seems to have built half of India's buildings.

I got out of the car to take a picture of a huge herd of camels moving from the road into a field, and I was accosted by one of the camel drivers demanding money. I jumped back in the care very quickly indeed.

We made it in one jolted piece to our fabulous hotel in Jaipur - a converted Maharaja's palace with extensive gardens. Our guide, Ajit Singh Chauhan, was already waiting for us for the afternoon's tour. Turns out that he is of the Rajput royal class descendant of the last Hindu Raja before the Mughals took over and has fond memories of being in our hotel when it actually was a palace. In fact, he worked for a brief time as the Maharajah's comptroller. One got the feeling that this was going to be a uniquely informative tour, and it was. Jaipur is very beautiful, with a great deal of Indo-Persian architecture from the long line of Maharajas. Most of it is now owned by the government, but I saw the current Maharaja leaving the palace he still occupies. We rode an elephant up the long hill to the Amber Palace - a 16th century series of palaces and forts. Ajit also took us to the City Museum, where there is a marvelous though poorly preserved collection of Maharajah's items from the 16th century on. We also visited the amazingly modernistic observatory built by Jai Singh - the largest sundial anywhere. There was a wonderful shopping area of craftsmen supported by the Maharjah - could have bought out the place if I had time. But we were getting tired. Jim has been fighting his cold and cough for more than a week, and I have bit of a cold now, too. We came back to the hotel and had a lovely beer and dinner outside in the gardens. We have been very lucky to hit a brief stretch of spectacular weather in Rajasthan - clear and cool (80's) because of a big storm that blew through. I should have been much, much hotter. This morning we were supposed to be up at 5:15 to prepare for an early flight to Mumbai, but we overslept and had about two minutes to get packed up and out. But the food is quite good on both Indian Airways and Jet Airways, so we had a nice breakfast. So here we are, doing nothing much for a few hours, preparing to come home. We have missed everyone, and have loved all the comments you have made. Thanks for that. Somehow, we'll have to review all we've done and get some perspective on it. But clearly, the extraordinary people we have met have made the trip. We have been so fortunate in that regard.

Jim's additions: From Kalimpong to Jaipur there have been two sure-fire friendship builders. The first, Chris' having lived in Varanasi and "coming home" for a visit. The second, and even more powerful, Ellie's being in Varanasi right now. At every turn, once learned, people wanted us to know -- and to tell her -- that they were available to her for any assistance she might need -- anything, anytime.So, our travels came to an end that evening in Jaipur as we had a drink and light supper in the cool evening of the Palace gardens. A perfect final memory of Jaipur and our diverse India adventure. Unfortunately, our last memory will really be of the next morning's mad dash to the airport, having overslept by a full hour. Well, that's been our way all along: up early and out quick!

Comments: Ranthambore is a beautiful place, but the tourism use of the park needs the kind of changes that Poona (not sure how she spells her name) suggested to us, and I know you are all well aware of. Because we were not tiger-obsessed (but tiger-interested), we found all the rushing around in the park to be kind of crazy. And it was too much for us to take two safaris in one day. Our morning guide was interested and pretty knowledgeable about birds and all the other wildlife, but our afternoon guide couldn’t care less about anything but tigers-tigers-tigers. We also saw very little wildlife on the afternoon safari, though maybe that had more to do with the route. (Actually, in the afternoon some other people did spot some tigers briefly at a distance; we didn’t) We did see some spectacular vistas, though. It is a beautiful place, and we loved seeing all the large mammals and primates. I noticed on the Ranthambore Bagh bulletin board that there may have been dedicated birding tours, so perhaps it might have been better for us to take one of those as well as one safari. It was very nice to be in jeeps as opposed to the larger trucks, so thanks for making those reservations. We also loved the Bagh. Unfortunately, we didn’t get to meet Vikram’s brother, but Poona was wonderful and gracious to us. The hotel is very beautiful, the tent was charming and comfortable, and the outdoor dinner with music was romantic and fun. Fun to hang out with Rob, Sarah and Rowan too – fortunately Sarah was feeling so much better by then.

For your clients that you are sending to Ranthambore, and also for Ranthambore Bagh, a very good addition would be a take-along guide booklet or pamphlet of pictures and text about the common birds, mammals and trees that one will see in the park, as well as a map and history of the park. This would overcome the problem of guides who don’t know birds well, and might help begin to focus everyone on all the other riches that the park has to offer besides tigers. Also, I wish Ranthambore Bagh had sent us out at dawn with at least some hard-boiled eggs. It was a very long time until breakfast, and we were rushed through our tea by a driver/guide who picked us up even earlier than scheduled. Actually, this was something of a problem throughout the trip – the “up early & out quick without breakfast” pace. Before I caught the cold, doing that wasn’t so bad. But since I was never really able to get over the cold, and as it settled into bronchitis, that pace was really hard on me. I really should’ve discussed this with the proprietors at Birders’ Inn and with Poona; they might’ve accommodated me. But as it was, it sort of wore me out and I ended up spending some evenings in bed instead of with friends, for example with you all at Birder’s Inn . In retrospect, I probably should’ve gone to a doctor as Dipendra suggested, because, as it turned out, I needed antibiotics, not just cough medicine. We could have easily done that in Varanasi as well, because they have doctors available all the time. But I’m happy to say that it didn’t keep from doing anything, or going anywhere, that was planned. Just put a bit of a damper on my experience.

A final word of recognition: Our guide in Jaipur, Mr. Ajit Singh Chauan, was another superb person. Very professional, very personable, very deep and detailed knowledge of Jaipur’s history and of its wondrous places. I don’t know whether you particularly chose him as our guide, or whether it was something more random. But I suggest that you might team up with him as your associate in Jaipur. FYI, he runs a business of his own called “Rajasthan Fair and Festival Tours.” It might be a good strategic complement to WWIndia.

Friday, March 25th, 2005
Home
The final entry on this trip - home again. The plane trip was long and mostly sleepless for me, unfortunately, so I arrived home with little or no sleep for 30 hours. Jim had many hours of sleep, but is still tired. Turns out that he has bronchitis that's affected just about every area of his lungs. We have no idea what time of day it is. After a last, wonderful Indian dinner at the hotel in Mumbai, I swore I was still not tired of Indian food. But on the planes, I picked the non-Indian choices, and Jim and Lissie are about to go out for a hamburger. It was strange to leave the hotel at midnight for a 2:20 AM flight out, but there were tons of people at the airport because lots of the European flights leave at that time. We had quite a long layover in DeGaulle in Paris, but knitting and studying the French chocolate and pastries made it go fairly quickly. Lissie met us at home; it was great to see her - for about an hour before I crashed. Now it's sorting out things, looking at photos, feeling amazed that this all actually happened. Great to see Ellie's last posting that she is already worrying about leaving her host family's home in a month; the thing she was most worried about turned out to be her favorite feature! How often that is the case. Very nice to be able to drink water right out of the faucet - how many things we take for granted every day.

Comments: You all did a fabulous job putting together our trip. Every connection worked wonderfully well, and we had an excellent mix of birding/wildlife and culture and hanging out talking to people. We really had extraordinary guides – every one! Being with Raj Basu was an unexpected and tremendous gift –still don’t know just why or how that happened, but must stem from some magic. He facilitated so many meaningful connections (and wants us to return as his guests). Your joining us in Bharatpur was also remarkable; you can’t imagine how special it was to meet you in person after all the e-mails, and you are all so great.

In retrospect, I guess it might have been useful to develop our trip in the other direction, that is, build the trip around the Indian airline schedules first, then fill in the details. Maybe that would have resolved the extra-flight-to-Delhi glitch, maybe not. We had so many other constraints to work with – high season in Darjeeling starting right after our visit there, impending hot weather on the plains, Ellie’s group being away from Varanasi the week leading up to the 14th, the end of the season at Bharatpur, our need to return to the US for Easter, etc. So maybe it would have turned out the same anyway. And who wouldn’t fly to Delhi for breakfast with Dipen!

We could not imagine having had the rich experiences we did without your expert assistance. It was your choice of people and places that gave us such entrée into Indian culture as well as the enjoyment of unique wildlife and wild settings. In addition, we were spared the anxiety of making connections in very unfamiliar places. We would heartily recommend you to anyone wanting a uniquely customized adventure in India, and we extend ourselves as references in any way that would be useful to you.

Images: Jim Walters & Chris Kenty