Joergen Bech & Jette Lyager (Copenhagen, Denmark)
Photo: Nanak Dhingra
This trip to Gujarat – and the Corbett-extension – became a unique experience, a trip of its own atmosphere. We were in India in 1971 – that is Jette and I, so this was a communion – a re-visit 35 years after! I was back in 1986, and shortly from Nepal also in 1998 – thus being familiar with most of the birdlife of Northern Inidia. So we turned to Gujarat. With its exquisite bird species, mammals, habitats, and culture. Being only the 2 of us it became in many ways a trans-cultural birding trip. This was due esp. to our driver and friend Laxman Shah, the ecologist and scientist Jugal Tiwari in Kutch, and Dhanraj Malik of the famous Camp Zainibad. Part of this synthesis was culture – from the reality of India 2006 to remote traditional villages and the highly active religious life 3000 stairs up in the Jain temples of Palitana.
Great Indian Bustard, Eastern Houbara, Painted Sandgrouse, Sykes´Nightjar, Hypocolius, Stoliczkas´s Busch-Chat, White-naped Tit, Grey-necked Bunting - all main targets found on our route through Gujarat. We only heard the Lions of Gir Forest but was more than compensated by a very good observation of Leopard. In Gujarat we followed the concept and contacts made by Uffe Gjøl Sørensen the year before. So – thanks to Uffe!
The Corbett-concept had one target: Finding Tiger! I had been in Corbett before (1986) – and also been through Ranthambhore and Chitwan, but always failed to see the world’s most superb animal. So through Vikram Singh (Wild World India) we had made a purposeful plan for this. We had one day in the foothills around Nainital (Rufous-bellied Woodpecker, Black-throated Accentor) just to breathe the atmosphere before entering Corbett.
Result: An incredible 7 Tigers on 4 observations and in paradise itself = Corbett. Mahender Singh was the master-guide, the Mahawat Farouck responsible for our first Tiger seen a few meters away from elephant back. Collateral birding produced Hodgson´s Bush-Chat and many well-known Corbett-species.
Itinerary
3 January
An interesting and most unexpected prologue to the trip occurred on the way from half a days’ work in Koege to Copenhagen. Denmark’s first Bimaculated Lark roosting at the shores of Stauning´s Island just north of Koege. Rushed out to fellow twitchers just in time to see the lark. One hour later in the taxi for the airport with Jette, told her about this good omen for the trip. Actually, we did not see Bimaculated Larks in Gujarat! Evening in London, night in the air heading for Bombay.
4 January
Arrival Bombay 12.00, later domestic flight to Ahmedabad. Revisited 34.5 years after! Picked up by Laxman – creating our Gujarat team of 3. Laxman drove off taking us into the chaos of traffic, dense population and pollution. We drove for Utelia arriving after dark. Suddenly here in the silence of the village, knocking on the gate of the old Utelia Castle, a bit damaged by the 2001-earthquake but still towering over the small village. Here we spent the night.
5 January
Utelia 8.00-10.00. Walked through the village to surrounding fields and riverine scrub. Large flocks of Short-toed Larks, 450 Roseate Starlings, and Sykes’ Warbler. Drive to Lothal (10.30), visiting the excavations of the 4500-year-old Harappan culture. The only Indian (lesser) Spotted Eagle found here close to the dirt road, some birds too in the scrubs including (Eastern) Orphean Warbler and another – Sykes.
Drove on heading for Velavadar with stops, esp. at a river creek with a lot of waterbirds and Greater Spotted Eagle. Generally the surrounding farmlands were industrial crops including a lot of cotton – the impact of this, including large-scale use of pesticides on birdlife was obvious. The huge flocks of birds we remembered from our early trips to India were gone. Black-winged Kites seemed to survive, but vultures were gone. Black Kites were few and only in towns.
Velavadar 14.30-18.15. A remnant of the vast grasslands of Gujarat. No overnight stay so we had limited time in this great habitat with flocks of Blackbucks scattered all over. Clouds of Short-toed Larks, some Rufous-tailed Larks and 2+2 of the endemic Sykes’ Crested Lark. Also 2 Long-billed Pipits. At least 700 Common Cranes esp. in the buffer-zone around the reserve and one beautiful Demoiselle Crane standing with 5 Black Storks. Time revealed this bird to be the only Demoiselle of the trip – not so easy to see in mid-winter in Gujarat. At dusk the famous movement of Harriers began. They swept in from all directions, passing by and settled in groups on roads and in the grass. We counted 340 birds – old male-ratio gave an estimate of Montague´s Harrier 220 and Pallid Harrier 120. A very spectacular sight! No doubt additional times can be well spent here – notabilities as Laggar Falcon and Lesser Florican are possible here, the latter requires a very good luck out of breeding season – a flock of wolves still survive. After dark Laxman took us to Palitana. Stayed at Hotel Sumero, basic but ok!
6 January
Palitana – Day of our “pilgrimage” to Shatrunjaya Hills 6.30-12.15 visiting the Jain temple-complex at the top. 3500 steps take you to the top – we made it in 1 hour, 10 min. Laxman preferred to stay at the bottom. It is a unique experience to join the pilgrims, the atmosphere very spiritual and very friendly. In addition hillside birding on the descent was quite good – i.e. a surprise – Sulphur-bellied Warbler and Rock Bush-Quail. In the meantime Jette got instructions of how to become a holy Jain woman. Anyway – we both decided to head on – a long drive for Gir. Still – where have all the birds gone? Sarus? The thousands of doves and starlings? Interestingly enough Black Ibis seems to be rather resistant to this environmental disaster. 7 birds. Arrived at Gir Birding Lodge at Sasan Gir (pre-booked). Services and arrangements were splendid, but the place lacked some atmosphere and it was the only place where our driver and friend Laxman did not have a good time.
7 January + 8 January
Gir Forest – a target-locality not reached in 1971 but this time we made it. The habitat is open dry woodland in the hills. This means quite a low diversity of birds but some specialities. And the potential two big cats!
We made game drives morning and afternoon/evening at both days. Guide and driver is compulsory. Also we were accompanied by Ganesh from the lodge, a Nepalese nature-guide working here because of the situation in Nepal. A very able man, despite only a short time in Gir. No doubt this is the place of the last Asiatic Lions. Classic male roars heard several times – a familiar sound from Africa. Lots of prints. But we never saw them – Lions are much more easy to watch on open African savannahs than in this more closed environment. One evening we caught up with a Leopard. A glorious big male, leisurely walking and roosting on the forest-floor, could be watched in 50 minutes before retreating. Leopard! Spots…
Birds: A good selection of raptors – first gyps as 4 Long-billed Vultures soared over hilltops. Also Short-toed, Tawny, Bonelli’s and Booted Eagles and White-eyed Buzzards. Dry habitat birds like Yellow-footed Pigeon, Marshall’s Iora and Thick-billed Flowerpecker. But the prize goes to Painted Sandgrouse seen 3 times as pairs on almost un-vegetated hills, very discreet and cryptic in pastel colours, but once found, allowed extremely close observations.
9 January
Drove off early morning from Gir heading for Kutch. Passed a lake NE of Gir with some waterbirds including Great Thick-Knee. It was a long and tough day on the Indian roads, Laxman had a hard time. In the afternoon we passed the bridge crossing the Greater Rann of Kutch, a huge tidal area with lagoons, sandbars etc. Only briefly birded as we expected more time at the return. Darkness came at Bhuj. We headed on eventually meeting Jugal Tiwari in the village Mota-Virani and were installed at Jugal’s place (Center of Desert and Ocean) just outside the village – staying here the next three nights. Facilities were fine to our needs, whether staying in the room or in the tents. Splendid Gujarati food! It was a very good experience to meet Jugal, his wife and son. Jugal is a vary competent person, scientifically trained, and extremely committed to the nature and wildlife of Kutch and has a hard job standing against the major threats to this unique habitat, especially the charcoal industry.
10 January
A 10 km drive before dawn took us to Fulay – a small traditional village – and the huge Bani Grasslands. We were at the traditional Hypocolius-roost, but the place had recently been seriously disturbed so nerves were on the edge! The early yellowish light seeped in on the plains. Dark spots scattered in the few acacias took the forms of Steppe Eagles as the light progressed, flocks of Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse rushed over.
At the roost nothing happened – bulbuls only. At 8.00 we were sure that the roost had moved! At last a single male Hypocolius popped up to its position in the top of an acacia. A legend of the deserts – and taxonomy! Great relief! A single Cream-coloured Courser found by Jette. The grassland – endless flats, numerous rodents and the predators: Steppe Eagles and some Long-legged Buzzards. We stayed some hours in Fulay – they had beautiful carpets for sale. Returned to the camp at 12.00.
In the afternoon a long walk in the hills behind Mota-Virani birding with Jugal. Marshalls Iora, Spotted Owlet and good numbers of Wheatears (Desert and Variable). But the main target was Jugal’s bird – the endemic and endangered White-naped Tit. At last a small mixed flock were located dominated by Small Minivet. And the tits! 2 nice White-naped Tits that could be followed the next ½ hour moving restlessly between groups of acacias controlling the pods for infestations with larvae.
11 January
Jugal had received a new guest – a wealthy man from Bombay. He wants to see the GIB! (Great Indian Bustard). So based a trip to the Lala area about 100 km from the camp, arriving at about 8.30. It is a huge area of dried up grassland, the bustards can be quite difficult (Jugal drew a blank on his last trip), so we had to work hard. Indian Coursers were common here – about 30 birds readily seen. No bustards. At last I saw some birds flying away in the distant haze, barely visible, but just compatible with GIB. The man from Bombay believed that it had been a hallucination but Jugal decided to drive after the sight. 5 km off-road and later we located 5 male Great Indian Bustards, approached and observed the next ½ hours before the flock vanished into a small stand of acacias. Mission completed! From one endangered species to the next:
Stoliczka´s Bush-Chat found on the traditional spot along the gravel road to the watchtower of the Lala reserve. A female + a male, the latter giving “sub-puff-and-rolls” when disturbed, fine observations of this terrestrial Bush-chat. At about 12.00 we left Lala heading for the seacoast at Pingleshwar, having lunch at the small Wat and enjoying empty sandy beaches as far as we could see. Dolphins, Great Thick-Knee, Osprey. Later crossing cranefields (ab. 800 Common Cranes) ending at Poldaria about 16.00-17.30, an isolated farm in empty barren hill-country. We had a stop at a small stream which attracted birds in the otherwise dry country. It paid off! Grey-necked Bunting – 3, esp. a close nice male, the third “Ortolan”. The farm is a rehabilitation centre or hospice for ill or traumatized cattle, with a religious background. The carcasses are dumped on nearby hills creating one of the best places for vultures left with up to 400. In late evening we saw 145 vultures – White-backed Vultures and Eurasian Griffons (about 4:1) in competition with the all too numerous stray-dogs haunting India in the “post-vulture” era. Another good sighting was a flock of 6 Yellow-wattled Lapwings. Late return to the camp with Indian Nightjar and Barred Button-quail in the dusk.
In the evening 3 men from the village played traditional hymns – a small fire is on. January-nights are cold on the plains.
12 January
Nice morning-walk with Jugal before leaving at about 10.00. At Bhuj a single White-backed Vulture. Crossed back over the bridge of Greater Rann. Indian Sandlark, many Slender-billed Gulls, a single Mongolian Plover among common waders, flamingos, and western reef egrets. Zainabad reached at 15.00 - marked by 140 Roseate Starlings. Staying at Desert Camp (Dhanraj Malik). Malik’s place is an ornithologists paradise. Relaxed, nice, outstanding food! Birds and Khur at the campsite. The Maliks are local rulers – but also very dedicated birders and extremely helpful to assist your ornithological wishes!
13 January
Little Rann of Kutch 8.30-13.00 – long trip with D Malik. Rann means “the place where nothing grows”. Driving out on the vast empty pans leaves a most complete silence. Only the numerous castings of flamingo-feet in the dried up clay show that here were water during the monsoon. Vegetation is around the “islands” and around here is wildlife: Flocks of Khur – the wild ass – still survive here in good numbers. 2 Eastern Houbaras were located, a wintering and now rare species, it was a male and a female/immature male. Nearby Hoopoe-Larks and Desert Warbler! Crossing back we met camel-nomads (Jodh-people from Sind) and passed old villages with old gates and remnants of harbours from the time when the Rann was still passable by boat! Afternoon relaxed in the campsite. Booted Warbler, Orphean Warbler, Wryneck, Roseate Starling.
Dhanraj Malik expected a British bird group to come – they wanted only one bird: Sykes’ Nightjar. So we headed for Malik’s nightjar-fields to be absolutely sure that the species was available! At dusk some 300 Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse, then starting the exiting nightjar-scan on ploughed, unvegetated fields. Moon was clear, making it a bit difficult to locate and later fixate the birds in the spotlight. With progressing darkness we managed to find about 15 nightjars. 2 were caught and in the hand could be safely identified as a Sykes’ Nightjar male + female. Probably all these birds were Sykes’ - another 5 could be identified. Only 1 Indian Nightjar was seen – on the tarmac road when we returned. Yellow-wattled Lapwing and Short-eared Owl also seen scanning fields in the dark
14 January
Pronounced our day of wetlands of Zainabad. The Maliks had a family-day so we left the 3 of us + 2 of Malik’s people in the morning to bird lakes around Patdi. 3 lakes very close, 3 different habitats: The first a typical flamingo-flat and the 2500 Lesser Flamingos was like being in Rift Valley! 300 juveniles – so some breeding success. The next lake a deep, fish-rich lake – White Pelican 190 and Dalmatian Pelican 5.The third lake is close to the village Himmatbura, the lake inaccessible (loaded with ducks) but the broad surrounding ring-channel is very good: Among more common waterbirds we eventually found Sarus Crane - 2 adult with 1 young, and a Great Bittern standing in the edge of reeds at close range, later flying into better cover. The Bittern is a rare bird here – in fact a new record to Zainabad according to the Maliks! Detail of this bird given in the species list
Afternoon relaxed in the camp including a surprise Rufous-tailed Scrub-Robin – a bird expected to be in Africa at this time of the year. Left late afternoon reaching the Hotel Host Inn in Ahmedabad after dark. At the very moment we parked here Laxman had his first and only puncture on the trip! It was time to split the Gujarat team, Laxman had made a fantastic job and we had to say goodbye with some sadness. Laxman went home for Udaipur, Jette and I were ready for Delhi the next morning.
15 January
All day travelling – morning flight Ahmedabad-Delhi, arr. 10.00. This last extension of the trip was planned in much detail through Vikram Singh of Wild World India. Vikram knew that we were birders but had one dominant target: Finding Tiger in Corbett. We were met in the airport and drove north heading for the foothills. Got stuck in Haldwani (we did the same in 1971!) but eventually reached Nainital after dark.
16 January
One day in the foothills spent in the good forest around Killbury Road and Pangot, 7.00-18.30. Probably we arrived an hour too late for the optimal chance to see pheasants, but we had a nostalgic day in the foothills. It was a cold and cloudy day, too misty for distant snow-views and not the best for raptors, but many fine observations during the day. Got 2 fine woodpeckers, Himalayan and esp. the beautiful Rufous-bellied Woodpecker, some phylloscopus, Orange-flanked Bluetail, Rufous-naped Tit, Pink-browed Rose-finch but the best were the accentors – Black-throated Accentor (in company with Rufous-breasted Accentor) at the edge of a small terraced field. Celebrated with chapati, egg-curry and tea at a small place nearby.
17 January
Passed the gate of Corbett at about 10.00. Tiger fever relapsed – 20 years after my first visit to Corbett. The chance was in our hands – that is esp. our guide Mahendra – a shy man of the forests, but very competent! Slow drive with stops at the Ramganga river. Gharial crocodile, Black and Black-necked Storks, Pallas’ Fish-Eagle and a flock of elephants on the Dhikala grassland. Mahendra proposed that we should try on elephant in the evening – there had been a tiger sighting in the grassland early morning. So we left with Farouk – our Mahawat – not for the grassland but into deep forest following alarm-calls of Chital. Eventually Farouk succeeded in locating the Tiger and our first Tiger was a big male within 2 meters from the elephant, angry and roaring being disturbed in its own territory. Went back to Dhikala – exhausted and happy!
18 January
Corbett NP, jeep with Mahender Negi all day ending at dusk at the watchtower of Dhikala. This was the day where Mahendra showed his capacity! During the day an incredible 6 tigers were seen. Early morning, a female + 2 1-year young close to Dhikala. In the middle of the day a male and a female tiger along the road close to Sarabduli. In the evening a female scoped from the watchtower on the grass-plains. A gallery of birds through the day – esp. Hodgson’s Bush-Chat 3 males, 2 females at the far end of the Dhikala grassland (preferred long grass, but not elephant grass!).
19 January
Corbett NP half day, 6.30-15.00. Additional birding, Brown Fish-Owl but no Tawny. Drive to Delhi in the afternoon. Met with Vikram and his colleague Gaurav in the evening having dinner and Kingfishers, after 16 days non-alcoholic they certainly had an effect! Vikram combines business with adventure. They had heard about the record of 7 tigers within 24 hours, so they certainly organised this part of our trip to perfection!
20 January
Morning flight out of India for Europe. We had observed 224 species of birds in Gujarat – not too bad. After Corbett and Nainital the count raised to 315 after these few days in the north.
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